Looking for a first leather jacket, likely the only one I'll have for a long time.

[JVK]

Need your help choosing a first leather jacket, with the caveat that it's the only one I'll have for many years. I'm starting law school this coming fall, so my means of earning money'll come to a standstill for a few years, after which I'll be paying off massive debt. With that in mind, I've been budgeting each month off my paycheck for a leather jacket (a 22 year-old's dream, right?) before I head off.

My chief consideration is versatility (can wear in as many situations/outfits as possible), along with the durability to handle wear and tear in New York, be somewhat weatherproof and still look good in 5+ years. Price-wise, I think I'd be willing to shell out anything under $1,000 if the fit truly was perfect, although I would prefer less.

What jacket style would you recommend, and in what kind of leather? I don't ride motorcycles, so this'd be a fashion piece, sadly.

Some misc. thoughts I'm having right now:

• So far, I'm thinking a G-1 flight jacket in dark brown goat, but I'm still doing my research. The cheapest solid option for this seems to be Gibson and Barnes, would you guys recommend going that route? Does Johnson Leathers offer quality goat leather for customization of their flight jackets (I'm also open to an A-2 of any sort, but so far I feel like some kind of bomber jacket'll see the most consistent use).
• On the leather itself, regardless of jacket choice - is goatskin a good idea for this single leather jacket? I took a liking to it for its ability to handle weather/rain/scratches and still stay supple. That said, I'm still open to cowhide or anything else you might suggest.
• Have you guys had any experience with the Schott cowhide A-2? How's that leather compare to other brands?
• For a racer, are Schott's cow offerings good (some form of their "Classic Racer")?

Thanks.

 

[nick123]

Gibson Barnes is a very safe bet. Have you seen their M-422a?
Johnson Leathers is great. Sizing will not be an issue there. The GB goatskin is a bit thicker than the Johnson's though.
You're on the right track thinking goatskin though. It's a great "introductory" hide (meaning it won't surprise you with it's stiffness).

 

[nick123]

I forgot to add, both Gibson's "dark" brown (only available on their G-1, not 22a) and Johnson's "dark brown" 2.5 oz goatskin are VERY dark shades of brown. The Johnson's is borderline black. Great colors though.

 

[Interbak]

Goat, cow, horse, steer are all good choices, I'd stay away from lamb if it has to take some abuse. The goat will still be looking closest to new in 5 years time, you'll likely get more patina out of the others. My suggestion is to go try on as many styles as you can and decide what you like best, the rest of us don't really count. At this stage in my life I mainly wear A-2's, but I have a closet full of just about everything you can think of and it goes in cycles.
G-1's are excellent jackets ( I have a couple) but if you intend to still be wearing it for business or job interviews at graduation time it wouldn't be my first choice. If you want an all around wearing jacket that can be dressy, or casual I think you'd be best served by a brown or black car coat style, with either buttons or zipper front, your choice.

Brian

 

[Edward]

I'd point you to a few general considerations:

1] Colour. You've indicated a preference for brown. By all means go with what you like (nothing worse than out of necessity being stuck with a jacket you don't like!), though do also consider whether you'd wear more that would go with brown or black. To my mind black is always capable of being more formal, but there are limits as to how formal a leather jacket ever can be, so that's no biggy. If you only wear black leather shoes, though I'd advise against brown....but that's a personal preference.

2] Keep it simple for an 'only jacket'. A plain A2 will be more 'versatile' than one with artwork / patches / blood chit etc... I personally feel that a civilian style jacket is more versatile than a military one, but that's personal taste.

3] Think about fit. Do you want a jacket that can be worn over a sweater in colder weather, or are you happy with one that will go over a shirt alone? This could dictate which size or even style you choose.

4] Hide... Go for something thick and durable. You'll have time to break it in, and it will last, unlike fashion lamb. Not that there's anything bad as such about lamb, but it's just not the most durable of hides. As others have said, goat will stay 'new looking' for longer than horse on most vintage style jackets such as Aero or whatever. This makes it more versatile in my opinion: great as a horsehide with lots of patina can look, it's not necessarily going to be as appropriate for 'business casual' (hate that term, but you know what I mean). Don't get too caught up in the Horsehide mythology. It's lovely... but so are many other hides. If you are happy to accept a different hide, you'll find that you can often buy the same jacket in steer or goat for significantly less than horse - especially on the used market.

5] Consider used. You can save big money, and sometimes even score a mint jacket. For example, I have a couple of Aeros that I bought used for about 60% of the price of a new one.... and were I to sell them again today, having taken good case of them, I could realise pretty much the same price as I paid. With patience you might even finds you could buy two or three jackets used as against buying new.

6]Style again.... you're obviously interested in a military style jacket, but do you want an all-out repro? For many folks, especially if this is going to be an only jacket, the answer will be to buy the best and most accurate one they can. If, however, all you want is a military-style jacket, you might find that a civilian version will meet your needs just fine. I say this because when it comes to the premium makers, a big part of what you are paying for is the knowledge and skill it takes to make an exact repro of an original A2, G1, whatever. Purely as a garment, you might find something a fair bit cheaper that is every bit as good. Even most of the big repro guys charge less for a house model than a contract repro... This is not to take anything away from them or to suggest anything derogatory about those companies, simply that you consider whether you need to pay the premium for what they offer in order to meet your needs.

7] Fluffy collar.... I've owned a USN jacket repro.... the fluffy collar is gorgeous, though surprisingly warm on my neck. I have an Aero AN6552 (basically a G1 style, loosely speaking) which is much warmer to wear than an A2 - all down to the fluffy collar and rayon (non-breathing) lining. From that POV, an A2 would be more versatile than a G1 insofar as you could wear a scarf with the A2 to keep your neck warm.... though I wouldn't advise either as a full-on Winter jacket.

8] What sort of weather are you going to wear it in? Do you need room to layer or a warm lining? The warmer the jacket, the more you limit how much of the year it can be worn - and, of course, if you make it too light, it's the same. I'd avoid the uber-warm linings in a jacket that is quite a short and neat cut, as you probably will want something a bit longer which allows layering in the depths of Winter, while it will be too warm for more clement weather. At the end of the day, a heavy, non-leather Winter coat can be bought for less than a Spring / Autumn leather jacket...

Schott have been mentioned.... If I was looking for something in the general military flight jacket style but not looking for something which replicated a specific model, I might actually consider a used Schott - the model that has something of the A2, something of the G1 about it, with snap-on fluffy collar and zip in fluffly lining. For a couple of years I owned an unbranded imitation of one of those. Nowadays I would definitely have gone looking for a much smaller size, but if you have the option to try one of those on and you like the fit, they certainly are versatile. Expensive new (though less so than most of the names we revere here), but much cheaper used.

Just a bunch of random thoughts that occur to me on this subject - hope there's something helpful in there.

 

[Stand By]

Over the years, I've spent the best part of 5K with ELC and have an Irvin, A2, B6, B3, Buzz L2, a Luftwaffe and have an ANJ-3 from Aero - and I sometimes wonder - like you - but what if I could only have ONE. Which would I choose?
And, for me, the logical choice would be perhaps my least worn jacket - my Luftwaffe.
I adore my B3 and my Irvin - and they get sooo much daily use over the very long winters. And the A2 and ANJ-3 are great designs. But they are all rather casual jackets and specific to one type of season.
My Luftwaffe is my "dress" jacket for conferences and dinners. I can dress it up with khaki dress pants and black RM Williams boots - or down with jeans and old Blundstones. It's a nice intermediate weight too - so it's quite versatile and covers the weathers that I'd wear an A2 and B6. If I needed some extra warmth, I could put a nice seal brown C3 gilet over it. You could wear it with a hoodie too - looks good that way as well.
Being black, it goes with anything and being a classic 1940s/1950s motorcycle design, it's a classic icon of style that will never date. And to me, it doesn't shout "wartime". And the HH is gorgeous and hardy against the elements. And the RiRi zip is super-reliable. It has 5 pockets so it's functional (I always found an A2 lacking in this regard).
So for me, the Luftwaffe ticks the most boxes.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Keep in mind that a fur or mouton collar will age with continued wear. If you're looking for a jacket to last as 'the only jacket'..mouton bald spots can occur if heavily worn for years.
I think a civi HalfBelt design can look good in most any scenario. I suggest a company that custom makes jackets. If you 'measure correctly'..and know exactly how you want the jacket to fit(this is crucial)..it should workout well the first time. Goat usually looks newer longer. Most HH gains rustic character(patina).
Scan the outerwear section here. There are many jacket photos. If you have a jacket brand in mind type the name in 'Search'.
Good luck
HHD

 

[tonypaj]

Plain vanilla, if it's one jacket. A Highwayman, FQHH, brown.

 

[bn1966]

Have found my ELC Luftwaffe a good bit of kit, smart enough for work but great for casual too.



If I had to have only one jacket, it would be my horsehide Roughwear A2 from ELC. Took some breaking in but now fits like a glove and is my all time favourite leather. Can layer it up with fine wool sweaters for the colder weather. However having said that it didn't come out much with the winter we've just had in the UK, the Luftwaffe did earn it's keep.

 

[Jeff M]

Plain vanilla, if it's one jacket. A Highwayman, FQHH, brown.

Lots of great advice here. Definitely try on as many different designs as you can...as many different manufacturers (this can be difficult).

I own several mouton (fur) collared jackets, G1's, M422's. Great jackets, but they don't get worn as much as my non fur collared jackets.....and pretty much just in the cold seasons.
I own/have owned half belts, "aviator" style slash front zip jackets, A2's, A1's, "Luftwaffe" jackets, basic short waisted style leather jackets....jackets by Aero, GoodWear, Vanson, Eastman Leather Company, Langlitz,....some more I must be forgetting.
My "go to heading out the door" jacket is an Aero Highwayman, FQHH, brown.
Depending on how addicted you get to leather jackets, I'd save the fur collar for your second jacket...or third. Or fourth. Or fifth. Or..........

 

[nick123]

If you can figure out the sizing/specs (we'll all help you) go with the Highwayman. Wonderful jacket.

 

[Fanch]

Look at the G&B AN-J-3 and Expedition (Indy) jackets, which were my two favorite models when I visited the G&B factory a couple of years ago.

 

[JVK]

This is all brilliant feedback, thanks so much.

I am leaning toward a flight jacket, yes, although the A-2/G-1/Luftwaffe/etc. debate's still unresolved. I'm not necessarily looking for a repro jacket so much as a jacket I just love the look of, so I definitely don't mind any "authenticity" concessions toward practicality, so far as it's still a great-looking jacket.
Here's a few responses to Edward's great post:

1] Colour - I think I'd get the most use out of a brown or dark brown (seal, dark brown goat, etc.) jacket. The shoes I wear most are brown, and I usually rotate between a pair of brown Chromexcel boots and a pair of White's boots in "dress brown" that are probably fairly similar to the subtle off-black of the dark brown goat. I'm thinking I can still pair a dark brown jacket with black shoes if the occasion calls for it just fine.

2] Keeping it simple - Definitely will do. No patches or anything, just want a good, functional aesthetic.

3] Fit - Something on the slimmer side, something that can be worn over a light sweater or even a shirt alone if necessary. I've got a more athletic build than the average person, if that helps, although this is one thing I definitely want to run by all of you guys - what would you recommend for someone with these measurements?

• 6'0.5"
• 210 lbs.
• Chest: 45"
• Shoulders: 19"
• Waist: 33", though 40-41" where the jacket would probably hit
• I'm thinking a back length of around 27", does that seem fair?
• Arm length: 27" from top of shoulder to wrist

4] Hide - Horsehide's gorgeous but I think goat meets my individual needs better. Cowhide seems great too, but I think goat beats it out for me on cow's strong points, and if my considerations were different or if I got a second jacket I think I'd opt for a horsehide instead... i.e. it's great but not good enough to beat out goat or horse.

5] New vs. used - If I can find something fits, I'll go used, done. I'd just love it to fit right haha.

7] Fluffy collar - Not the biggest fan of this, but it could be situational. If it's detachable, that's fantastic (i.e. Schott's offering, don't know what else has detachable/snap-on), but I guess this isn't my biggest dealbreaker either. If I can get a great jacket I'd love without the collar, that's fine.

As far as the other great suggestions, like the Luftwaffe and Highwayman -

You're right, that's a great style too. Am still leaning toward the flight jackets for now, but I'll be mulling this over... no guarantee that won't change haha, I want to put my time in on figuring out this investment. No rush there.

 

[Atticus Finch]

You've gotten some good advice so far. Let me add this: You will either gain or lose weight in law school...and you will most likely gain. There will be weeks that you'll do nothing more physical than to turn the pages of a casebook. There will be times that you'll live on hamburgers and pizza. Even if you don’t drink beer now, you should count on developing a taste for it. Buy a jacket that will forgive you if you change shape a bit in the next three years. Because you will.

AF

 

[JVK]

You've gotten some good advice so far. Let me add this: You will either gain or lose weight in law school...and you will most likely gain. There will be weeks that you'll do nothing more physical than to turn the pages of a casebook. There will be times that you'll live on hamburgers and pizza. Even if you don’t drink beer now, you should count on developing a taste for it. Buy a jacket that will forgive you if you change shape a bit in the next three years. Because you will.

AF

I know this might sound a bit odd, but I actually think the measurements will stay somewhat constant - I compete in powerlifting meets as a hobby, which has strict weight classes. Fitness is and will stay a priority of mine, and I've made it work this last year or so of a 75 hr./week job, and I'm confident I can keep that up because it's something I truly do love and don't mind sacrificing other time for.

As far as the actual measurements themselves changing with lifting, I've been fluctuating between the 198 and 220 lb. weight classes for the last year and a half and the actual body measurements have changed little, just 0.5" in the waist and 1" in the thighs, with little to no difference in the chest/shoulders. I'm planning on staying in the 220's long term. I know how rough law school will get, too - believe me - but I'm also proud of my ability to budget and cook easy but effective meals (thanks, slow cooker, among others). I'm planning on that being sustainable.

Sounds foolish but fitness really is my one big outside passion right now haha.

 

[ProteinNerd]

You asked in your first post about the classic racer style. I have an Aero in this style and while its truly an amazing jacket and I wouldn't change it for anything, due to the collar its really only suitable for a more casual setting, what I mean is it looks weird to wear a collared shirt under it.

If this is going to be your only jacket you want something more versatile.

You also mention an A-2. That would be slightly better but personally, for an only jacket, I think the elasticised cuff and waist again create too specific a "look" and again its more of a casual only, not as much as a cafe racer but the elastic cuffs etc don't lend well to a more dressy appearance. If you want that single "flyboy look" to be all you have for the next 5 years then fine. Go and google images "a2 jacket", you'll see what I mean, I'd prefer something similar but a little more versatile.

Its been mentioned already but an Aero Highwayman is an incredibly versatile jacket, it can be worn with or without a collared shirt underneath covers casual and slightly more dressy really well and doesn't seem to lock you into the "fly-boy" or any other stereotype. I've had to order one recently to cover the times the more casual cafe racer isn't really suitable for.

As for colour, I'd go with the brown FQHH. I quite regularly get people (complete strangers, almost always girls) comment on how much they love the colour of the jacket, you cant beat that ;D

 

[Jeff M]

You've gotten some good advice so far. Let me add this: You will either gain or lose weight in law school...and you will most likely gain. There will be weeks that you'll do nothing more physical than to turn the pages of a casebook. There will be times that you'll live on hamburgers and pizza. Even if you don’t drink beer now, you should count on developing a taste for it. Buy a jacket that will forgive you if you change shape a bit in the next three years. Because you will.

AF

Excellent practical advise.
Something like an A2 or a "Cafe Racer" style jacket will be less forgiving of weight gain.
Something like the Aero Highwayman more so.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

If you lift weights a custom made jacket may surely fit better.
HD

 

[Fanch]

I still think that the G&B AN-J-3 might be a strong consideration for your needs. I'm unsure about sizing and would call someone at G&B and give your measurements should you thing of proceeding in that direction.

http://www.gibson-barnes.com/prod-293974/Anj3-Usaaf-And-Usn.html

 

[Ishmael]

Just my opinion, and just echoing what many others have already said, but a Highwayman or Half-belt seems more versatile and better suited to your needs.

Goat would be great. Check out Jan Solo's goatskin halfbelt.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...elt-in-goat...A-very-serious-pictorial-review