Long leather greatcoats

[HungaryTom]

HungaryTom's account is absolutely right on. Thanks, Tom!


Even today, flea markets throughout continental Europe are FULL of these vintage leather/horsehide coats. Millions were made between the world wars (and even after), and quite a few have survived. Tough things!


That said, they've never done a good job of shielding me from the cold. Wool seems to be more effective.


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Dear Marc,

Thanks for your kind words.

What really protects you from the cold is a full-length shearling coat. (Wool+leather in one
Our shepherds used it, with full length hair-on.
However this thing is a misfit for motoring and for climbing into a cockpit plus it would look quite strange in urban environments.

Another thing. Style.

These shiny leather-coats are very unforgiving! They were tailored for generations where men were much slimmer than they are today!!!

These coats look good only on men with athletic or lean build like those WWII aces on the photo. Otherwise these stubborn coats show instantly with spit-shine at which places exactly the wearer has gained some overweight!

Therefore caution is needed before wearing one not only for historical/political reasons!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

These shiny leather-coats are very unforgiving! They were tailored for generations where men were much slimmer than they are today!!!

Yup! The pre-WWII coats, especially, tend to have narrow sleeves and very high armholes ... too high in many cases! (Makes it almost impossible to wear anything underneath the coat, except for a shirt.) Also, a good number of those coats have very padded shoulders which stick out at 90 degree angles. It's a look that takes getting used to.


European leather greatcoats from the '50s-'70s have shorter skirts, usually to the knee or just below. Their armholes are lower, and they seem to have a less streamlined fit. Also, the shoulders are much less padded.


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[Fletch]

I just picked up a 70s era dark brown leather trenchcoat off eBay, pretty traditional in cut except for a throat latch. It came from Canada, where they are somewhat more common than in the states.

I dislike black leather except for my dull finished car coat; I'm hoping for a cool interwar European modernist kind of look here. I would think dark brown had fewer associations to state (or private) authoritarianism.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I would think dark brown had fewer associations to state (or private) authoritarianism.

You're right, Fletch, about the dark brown.


One thing about the '30s-'40s European leather greatcoats that some people today don't like: they have scalloped yokes on the back, and also over the front shoulders. Makes the coats look sort of country/western.


Two exceptions are old Italian leather motorcycle cop coats and French leather police/firefighter coats, which have raglan sleeves (no yokes).

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[Oktagon]

I love my black horsehhide trench! wore it to the office today as a matter of fact.

http://talks.guns.ru/forums/icons/forum_pictures/000516/516230.jpg

http://talks.guns.ru/forums/icons/forum_pictures/000516/516228.jpg

 

[Marc Chevalier]

http://talks.guns.ru

So, do gun-talking Russians dig your black coat? Do waves of nostalgia for the KGB rush over them? lol

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[Oktagon]

So, do gun-talking Russians dig your black coat? Do waves of nostalgia for the KGB rush over them? lol

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lol

 

[Marc Chevalier]

But seriously, your coat looks great. Lots of these vintage '30s-'40s coats are exported from Germany to third world countries, where they're sold in the winter in flea markets and used clothing shops. The most common color is dark green, but occasionally you find dark brown as well. Black is the hardest to find.


As far as nonmilitary leather overcoats go, the rarest of the rare are double-breasted ones that fasten with buttons. Usually, they're just wraparounds with an inner strap and outer belt ... like Oktagon's.

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[Oktagon]

Couple of years ago a MINT black trench made in pre-war Germany appeared on eBay. It had buttons in addition to the double-buckled belt and the coat was made from four three pieces of leather, as opposed to more common six or seven. there was no seam under the belt.
I tried very hard to get it, but someone sniped it just as I was trying to snipe it myself. I don't remember the final price, but it was aver $1500.

 

[HungaryTom]

Two long leather greatcoats in action, stomping all over Europe.

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Dear Marc,

It is Werner Mölders and Adolf Galland.
Wikipedia tells a lot about both.

Cheers>

Tamas