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Linen Suit - I need help

tupmanzozzie

New in Town
Messages
5
Location
London
I'm an actor by trade, and the immaculate vintage stuff you get to wear in film and TV from Angels spoils you for clothes in civilian life. I want a 3 piece linen suit, like in a Chekov play, and dammit, I'm going to get one. But unfortunately I had a business suit made for me a few years ago, and I can never go back to high-street suits, so I am going to have to visit a London tailor of some sort to get measured up and put in my requirements.

Do any loungers have any insider knowledge about linen and what I should ask for? I mean basic tips like the kind of cloth! I have a linen shirt or two and it strikes me as very temperamental fabric - how do you guarantee a good shape from your tailor? All and any suggestions welcome.

I am scared that this may cost me a lot of money...
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,111
Location
London, UK
Linen will wrinkle, no matter what.... If you want to minimise this, go with a blend (cotton/ linen) or at least a heavier linen. Irish is, in my experience, heavier than Italian and preferable (though I may be biased ;) ).

I've never gone custom for linen, but I do have a great suit in Irish linen, in black (because some occasions, such as Summer graduations, require a darker hue), I bought at the end of last Summer in Roderick Charles on Jermyn Street. Off the peg, but fits me as if tailored. At half price - jacket and two pairs of trews for two hundred squids. Could be worth checking that out before you go custom, you never know.... Otherwise, I'd suggest for a vintage style M2M either Rocachas or Bookster. Eventually I fancy a db, late forties cut, suit in a heavy Irish linen of an ivory hue....
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
tupmanzozzie said:
I want a 3 piece linen suit.....so I am going to have to visit a London tailor of some sort to get measured up and put in my requirements.
Tell your tailor to source 14oz. Irish linen from W.Bill.
 

Bugsy

One Too Many
Messages
1,126
Location
Sacramento/San Francisco Bay Area
tupmanzozzie said:
I'm an actor by trade, and the immaculate vintage stuff you get to wear in film and TV from Angels spoils you for clothes in civilian life. I want a 3 piece linen suit, like in a Chekov play, and dammit, I'm going to get one. But unfortunately I had a business suit made for me a few years ago, and I can never go back to high-street suits, so I am going to have to visit a London tailor of some sort to get measured up and put in my requirements.

Do any loungers have any insider knowledge about linen and what I should ask for? I mean basic tips like the kind of cloth! I have a linen shirt or two and it strikes me as very temperamental fabric - how do you guarantee a good shape from your tailor? All and any suggestions welcome.

I am scared that this may cost me a lot of money...

I had a linen/silk suit made by Magnoli about a year ago. It's wonderful and doesn't wrinkle very much at all. Check out his site.
 

Smithy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,139
Location
Norway
Edward said:
I bought at the end of last Summer in Roderick Charles on Jermyn Street. Off the peg, but fits me as if tailored. At half price - jacket and two pairs of trews for two hundred squids.

That's exceptionally good value for a quality linen suit with an extra set of trousers Edward. Well done.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,111
Location
London, UK
Smithy said:
That's exceptionally good value for a quality linen suit with an extra set of trousers Edward. Well done.

I was very pleased; it had its first serious wearing in Bangalore a couple of weeks ago, where it certinly proved its worth. I plan to keep an eye on their sale this year.... I could be persuaded into another one or two - they had a nice bottle green, and a navy too....
 

bookster1uk

Vendor
Messages
52
Location
United Kingdom
Edward said:
Linen will wrinkle, no matter what.... If you want to minimise this, go with a blend (cotton/ linen) or at least a heavier linen. Irish is, in my experience, heavier than Italian and preferable (though I may be biased ;) ).

I've never gone custom for linen, but I do have a great suit in Irish linen, in black (because some occasions, such as Summer graduations, require a darker hue), I bought at the end of last Summer in Roderick Charles on Jermyn Street. Off the peg, but fits me as if tailored. At half price - jacket and two pairs of trews for two hundred squids. Could be worth checking that out before you go custom, you never know.... Otherwise, I'd suggest for a vintage style M2M either Rocachas or Bookster. Eventually I fancy a db, late forties cut, suit in a heavy Irish linen of an ivory hue....
Thanks for the mention, our linen mohair is not as 'crisp' as pure linen but it still creases, its part of the look, but it could be argued that it creases less. We also do personal fittings now if you can be bothered to come to rural Herefordshire, lots do, from all over the world.
 

tupmanzozzie

New in Town
Messages
5
Location
London
Thanks for suggestions. Would love to see pictures of the Magnoli Suit, indeed any of his suits being worn rather than the pictures on his website.

I remember the flurry of activity at Roderick Charles. May pop in there Monday morning to see what's in.

Cheers everyone
 

Creeping Past

One Too Many
Messages
1,567
Location
England
tupmanzozzie said:
Do any loungers have any insider knowledge about linen and what I should ask for? I mean basic tips like the kind of cloth! I have a linen shirt or two and it strikes me as very temperamental fabric - how do you guarantee a good shape from your tailor? All and any suggestions welcome.

I am scared that this may cost me a lot of money...

See Tomasso's post a little way back. Keep your wallet handy...
 

Prof Branestawm

Familiar Face
Messages
84
Location
Cambridge
tupmanzozzie said:
Thanks for suggestions. Would love to see pictures of the Magnoli Suit, indeed any of his suits being worn rather than the pictures on his website.

I remember the flurry of activity at Roderick Charles. May pop in there Monday morning to see what's in.

Cheers everyone

I'd be interested in hearing what stock Roderick Charles has in at the moment, if you managed to pop in.
 

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