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Lid for a Tux; Advice?

JohnnyB53

One of the Regulars
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289
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Seattle, WA
Edward said:
The ultimate for me would be one of those straw hombergs as worn by Poirot, but I've yet to find one when the requisite scratch is available.
Oooh, good answer! Here are a couple of leads:
Note that Dad's Hats can't get these until some time in 2009. But Miller Hats has a cool selection of semiformal Dobbs straw hats here

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It also occurred to me that an Akubra CEO in black or grey might work. Even though it's a safari-shaped hat, it can look surprisingly formal with its very nice felt, formal colors, smartly bashed crown, and matching ribbon. It's also a wicked cool hat for all kinds of occasions or no occasion at all. I have one in cruiser grey.
 

Not-Bogart13

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NE Pennsylvania
The straw homburg is an interesting idea. I couldn't bring myself to go with a white one (at least in felt). As Edward says, a bit too hip-hop. I like the Akubra. Soft is good, because I can play with the shape a little for different occasions.

It will be a warmer time of year, so straws are well within wearable range. I've got a few options, at least.

About that tie; what is "faille?"
 

David V

A-List Customer
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Downers Grove, IL
Not-Bogart13 said:
The straw homburg is an interesting idea. I couldn't bring myself to go with a white one (at least in felt). As Edward says, a bit too hip-hop. I like the Akubra. Soft is good, because I can play with the shape a little for different occasions.

It will be a warmer time of year, so straws are well within wearable range. I've got a few options, at least.

About that tie; what is "faille?"

Sorta like grosgrain but the ribbing runs defferant.
http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic_Components/Neckwear.htm
 

Wolfmanjack

Practically Family
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547
Not-Bogart13 said:
It will be a warmer time of year, so straws are well within wearable range. I've got a few options, at least.

Not-Bogart13, You and I have the same build. If it were me, I would go with the full classic "Sydney Greenstreet" look, viz.: With the white DJ, I would wear a black tie, black pocket square, red carnation, and black waistcoat with a nice big heavy watch chain prominently displayed.
maltesefalcon117.jpeg


A nice roll-brim panama (homburg or colonial) would complete the look
c
and you can always use it for a frisbee
c
. ;)

...And remember, It is your responsibility to make sure the ladies at the party are well treated.
 

Not-Bogart13

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NE Pennsylvania
Wolfmanjack said:
white DJ, I would wear a black tie, black pocket square, red carnation, and black waistcoat with a nice big heavy watch chain prominently displayed.

That's what I'm aiming for! Right down to the watch chain! Forgot about the pocket square, though. (Shame on me.)

What does the Colonial hat look like? I haven't heard that term used before as a hat style, except in grammer school (we called tricorns "colonials").

I must say, as simple of a change that the faille tie texture is, I really like it. I am now resolved to find one at a reasonable price.
 

JohnnyB53

One of the Regulars
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289
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Seattle, WA
Not-Bogart13 said:
What does the Colonial hat look like? I haven't heard that term used before as a hat style, except in grammer school (we called tricorns "colonials").
A selection of Ultrafino Montecristi Colonial-style Panama hats can be found here.

They look like this:

englishcolonial.jpg


Not this:

Hat_Tricorn_MORR3874.jpg


... which wouldn't look so sharp with a dinner jacket, no matter how boldly fashionable you are. lol
 

Edward

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London, UK
Johnny B 53 - thanks for the lead on those - I'll be checking those out in the new year, ready for the Summer season. :)


I would consider a waistcoat to be inappropriate with a white jacket - I'd stick with a cummerbund. The whole point of the white jacket was that it was a slightly less forlmal alternative that was easier to wear in hot climates - to my mind, adding a waistcoat underneath it somewhat undermines that intent. It's been done, though - not least by the always satorially elegant Dr Henry Jones Jnr, as seen in the Club Obi Wan sequence in Temple. also to be seen sported by Ralph Hapschatt at his wedding (the opening sequence of The Rocky Horror PIcture Show), though his outfit was further "incorrect" as he wore a white, not black, bow tie. ;)

This is how I do it, FWIW:

Uploaded8August2008013.jpg


I think I could do with having those sleeves shortened, certainly (modern 42R...), I must see to that... but anyhow, that's how I'd wear a white jacket. The Homberg is black, furfelt, circa 1940s.
 

Not-Bogart13

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Edward said:
I would consider a waistcoat to be inappropriate with a white jacket - I'd stick with a cummerbund.

Thank you for the advice, but cummerbunds do not compliment my rather generous stomach proportions very nicely. I look much better in a waistcoat. I'd rather look my best than follow "rules," which is often what happens given my body type and odd sizes. And I won't exactly be ridiculed for a small fashion transgression by the company I'll be keeping.
 

Not-Bogart13

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My hunt continues. Thanks to internet problems I missed a nice black homburg auction recently.

To recap; I seek a homburg to wear with a white dinner jacket tux. My question is, how much of a no-no would a gray homburg be? I ask, because that's mostly what I'm finding in the right sizes and brim measurements.
 

DocMustang

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Michigan, USA
Not-Bogart13 said:
Thank you for the advice, but cummerbunds do not compliment my rather generous stomach proportions very nicely. I look much better in a waistcoat. I'd rather look my best than follow "rules," which is often what happens given my body type and odd sizes. And I won't exactly be ridiculed for a small fashion transgression by the company I'll be keeping.

In the not too distant past I too had a rather substantial gut as well. I found that the modern skinny elastic, fasten in back type of cumberbund would roll over and look awful while a more traditional full wrap around cumberbund ( I had a local tailor make one for me for ~$100) would distribute the forces more evenly around the midriff, keeping the cumberbund looking good. If a wrap around cumberbund will not work. I would consider a double breasted white dinner jacket as you could then leave out a waist treatment altogether.

Doc
 

Edward

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London, UK
Not-Bogart13 said:
I'd rather look my best than follow "rules,"

I know exactly what you mean... maybe a white waistcoat would work well? I also like Doc Mustang's suggestion of the db jacket.... I'm presently carrying at least 30lbs over hat I should be myself, and I understand exactly the point re cummerbunds (you can see the beginnings of a rollover on mie in the photo). I still have an eye out for a nice db white myself, a la Casablanca.
 

reetpleat

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Seattle
Not sure about black hat with white jacket. But I find black homburg or fedora both fine for black tie.

With a white dinner jacket, a boater is fine, but odd to most people. Too vintage. A straw fedora looks fine, but probably only for a daytime event. A straw at night would be odd.

As for the tannish hat, unless it is white or a cream with a cream jacket, I say no. The white jacket will clash with any light hat unless it is a similar white.

In general, I would stay away from whitish hats for black tie. However, in SInging in the rain, at the start the guys wears a white trench coat and white fedora with black tie and it looks smashing.
 

avedwards

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Not-Bogart13, the light hat that you showed before is OK in my opinion. I know people say black grosgrain band, but the band on your hat nearly is black. To make it look better you could get a matching boutiniere (just my idea)? I am no expert on this, this is just what I think would look good to me.
 

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