Lewis Leathers / LL Cowhide

[Tom71]

Above is my size 42 Lightning; below my size 44 Dominator. I am 5’11“ with a 42“ chest.

Sleeve- and Bodylenght is virtually identical in both jackets. The Dominator ist slightly roomier in the chest, but 42 was way to tight and almost comically short.

I love both, and this thread made me sport the Dominator for three days now.

 

[konadog]

@Tom71 - which leathers are those jackets? fit on both is spot on.

 

[Tom71]

@Tom71 - which leathers are those jackets? fit on both is spot on.

Thanks much! I can only return the compliment!

Both are the standard horsehide. The Lightning is a few years old, and the hide is actually rather nice. The Dominator is new and has the 2019 batch of horsehide. Not the most impressive, I have to say.

 

[regius]

Here I did some abrasion tests. The regular black sheep (also come in two other brown colors), is the least resistant, surface scraped off from draggin on cement. This is expected, but hardly we drag ourselves hard on the ground right? Otherwise fingernail scratching doesn’t hurt it. So, it’s feminine and spongy and soft and good enough for daily wear. The Rutland is more dense and resistant. I’m gonna get one made in that.

 

[handymike]

Does the Rutland come in the dark green?

 

[regius]

Does the Rutland come in the dark green?

all the fancy colors have no stickers on them, but based on hand,i think they are all regular, it's hard to say, since the paint may creates a different texture.

 

[regius]

as far as my sample stack is concerned, the green sheep is thick and firm, the rutland is like cow, the navy sheep, ranch sheep, frousac sheep are like deerhide...

 

[Edward]

They've just never excited me the way some other jackets have. It's simple subjective attraction. I could perhaps get to like the Dominator (I like chest pockets) but I would want it to wear it slightly loose.

Sounds like you end up back at the Highwayman.... THe original Aero Higwayman way back in 83 started out with a Rivett's of London Highwayman branded jacket (now replicated faithfully as the Original 59er Highwayman), but it was adapted slightly to make it fit a bit boxier and thus look closer to the American jackets of that style from the late 50s.

Was about to say. To me, nobody else makes this classic jacket look and fit as good. Except for maybe Aero with the 59'er.

Lewis were the original copyists on that one.... the Rivett's Of London Highwayman branded version of this style - faithfully replicated as the Original 59er by Aero nowadays - was a popular version of an established style already by 1959; Lewis are the better known brand nowadays, but their straight zip / shirt collar models as they now exist were not released until 1962.

 

[regius]

Between a Lewis and the Aero 59er, as far as Rivets' concerned, I'd go for the Lewis. Aero's is just too Highwayman-ish, and the placement of the cuff zipper is wrong, even though it's their choice. It takes away the look. Also, the boxy mid section on the 59er wouldn't be any better than the Dominator, not to mention low armhole.

 

[regius]

and the collar, sure, the 59er has the correct construction but its size and height still not right, Lewis' collar is really cool

 

[handymike]

Lewis' collar shape is better than Aero's standard shape. The collar is Aero's biggest downfall, but some of their specialty shapes are better. I haven't yet seen a Seabiscuit, but I have hope that someone will show us.

 

[Monitor]

The collar is Aero's biggest downfall, but some of their specialty shapes are better.
View attachment 228090

Yeah, definitely.

Their regular collar, the kind that's curved toward the inside, is lame. It's what was bothering me the most on my HWM. No matter how many fun details you spec, the collar alone is killing the entire jacket. Then again, the premier line collars are all brilliant. Best one they've made was on Ton's blue jacket.

 

[nick123]

Here I did some abrasion tests. The regular black sheep (also come in two other brown colors), is the least resistant, surface scraped off from draggin on cement. This is expected, but hardly we drag ourselves hard on the ground right? Otherwise fingernail scratching doesn’t hurt it. So, it’s feminine and spongy and soft and good enough for daily wear. The Rutland is more dense and resistant. I’m gonna get one made in that.

for some reason your last sample scratch looks like a human head.

Looks like it could be an abstract form of Iggy Pop, circa 1970-ish

 

[handymike]

Yeah, definitely.

Their regular collar, the kind that's curved toward the inside, is lame. It's what was bothering me the most on my HWM. No matter how many fun details you spec, the collar alone is killing the entire jacket. Then again, the premier line collars are all brilliant. Best one they've made was on Ton's blue jacket.

That's what sold me on the Premier Highwayman, but it could be larger all around. It still thins out to the August size around the back, like a spearpoint shirt-collar. The Seabiscuit is the only one that looks to maintain it's "fullness" @360º. A vintage Hercules collar I have is 3.5” tall at the back.

The Premier Highwayman is only 3”. That extra 1/2” all the way ‘round adds an ease and grace.

**UPDATE: I’ve confirmed that the Seabiscuit matches my vintage collar in width. **

 

[Edward]

Leather bearing the visage of Saint James of Osterberg? Tis a sign!

 

[AeroFan_07]

Yeah, definitely.

Their regular collar, the kind that's curved toward the inside, is lame. It's what was bothering me the most on my HWM. No matter how many fun details you spec, the collar alone is killing the entire jacket. Then again, the premier line collars are all brilliant. Best one they've made was on Ton's blue jacket.

You mean this collar? ....



I'll put some more detailed shots in the Highwayman database page, but yes, it is very unique.

 

[Monitor]

You mean this collar? ....

View attachment 228169

I'll put some more detailed shots in the Highwayman database page, but yes, it is very unique.

This is how a collar must look like!