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Lewis leather questions

rocketeer

Call Me a Cab
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2,605
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England
I have had a few original Lewis jackets in my time and noticed their bike specific jackets were a lot better leather than used today, especially the Bronx range.
Mentioned here is the Corsair, a semi bike/casual jacket. I had an original version of this around 10 years ago, I loved it though the hides was definitely thinner and softer with no heavy creasing as you get with an original Bronx. I did wear it on a bike, my old BSA A65 as I was brought up in those days when we were to fast to to live and to young to die, but I guess it would not get past the safety police if advertised as a motorcycle jacket today. The only real difference between an original and todays replica's being the badge, it was not there on the original jackets, so if you go for the authentic look, sorry I think Derek insists on all jackets having a visible label.
During the later 1960s and on to through 70s, most of the cheaper jacket makers used what was called 'Napper Lamb', a much softer and more fragile leather used, obviously to keep the price down. Is this what posters are describing as 'Sheepskin'? I have not seen many jackets advertised with sheepskin lining as in Aero's 'Thunder Bay' though some companies did make them. By fragile I mean a 70s jacket could go for 1 or 2 high speed spills but would not be in great condition after that, the only protection in the make up would be a little padding on the shoulders.
Lewis went on to take over many companies as motorcycling declined, Kett I believe was on who made a great looking jacket but in this atrocious sheep material. I have a 60s version with a gold satin lining than now is only good for a Hanger Queen as I use it to display my badge collection.
A good alternative to the Lewis is the https://www.goldtop.co.uk/product-page/the-1959 These are getting more popular and you can have pockets moved(I.e right chest to left, no Gold Top logo or yes to logo :) ) and the lining is gorgeous!


The napper lamb Kett.
Not as good as it looks, pin a badge to it and the top surface pulls away or simply tears. Waist strap stitch holes rear like postage stamp perforations. All zips work but with care. If you see it for sale don't buy it for the jacket, just the badges on it haha.
2010_0507suitegills0009_zps37ca5533.jpg


PA180025_zpsb3b149ef.jpg
 

rocketeer

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2,605
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England
I tried on an old Mascot the other day. Definitely lamb.
I have a near mint one, no badges or road rash. Best one I have ever had and it almost fits me :(
I really like the style as an alternative to the Lewis but the long life is not there if I wore it regularly. I'm loosing a bit of weight so it may fit eventually, you never know.
There is a lot of heritage with Lewis jackets but now they usually aim at the so called celebrity crowd, not always but you do not see many old bikers paying £800 then studding up a jacket. Real bikers would probably buy a used Lewis(as they are usually cheaper than new ;) ) and spending the spare cash on bike bits :)
 

regius

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New York
Just got off the phone with Stronghold. It was the most grueling jacket buying experience over the phone. Here’s how it went. I asked just for one or two key measurements of a stock jacket so that I can figure out the rest & just buy one. They wouldn’t give it to me for the life of me, previously, one guy offered to send me measurements but never did, & today I found out why. I just wanted to have the pit to pit of a 42 or 44, they wouldn’t give to me, & the most they could do is to tell me the difference between pit to pit & hem. I couldn’t find anything to be simpler than grab a jacket & measure it, so I was scratching my head as to why such wishywashy. Finally they explained that Lewis actually prohibit them giving out any measurement because companies like Addict Clothes (never heard before) made exact copies of the Lewis line. I thought, ok, that sucks & I can see why it is infuriating & also not surprised to see a Japanese company does that, but giving out just the chest measurement is not going to hurt them much, nor withholding measurements over the phone is going to protect them from a talented pattern maker copying it by eye or by buying a used jacket whatever. Anyway, it’s just weird. Stronghold aims to retail rack jackets but is at the same time prohibited from giving the minimal amount of sizing help.


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regius

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You are right, I remembered, but still, wanted to get a real measurement as it seems that’s just a standard size chart for all jackets. According to the chart, the rack jackets are all just a tube, chest & hem don’t differ much.


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red devil

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3,954
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London
Just got off the phone with Stronghold. It was the most grueling jacket buying experience over the phone. Here’s how it went. I asked just for one or two key measurements of a stock jacket so that I can figure out the rest & just buy one. They wouldn’t give it to me for the life of me, previously, one guy offered to send me measurements but never did, & today I found out why. I just wanted to have the pit to pit of a 42 or 44, they wouldn’t give to me, & the most they could do is to tell me the difference between pit to pit & hem. I couldn’t find anything to be simpler than grab a jacket & measure it, so I was scratching my head as to why such wishywashy. Finally they explained that Lewis actually prohibit them giving out any measurement because companies like Addict Clothes (never heard before) made exact copies of the Lewis line. I thought, ok, that sucks & I can see why it is infuriating & also not surprised to see a Japanese company does that, but giving out just the chest measurement is not going to hurt them much, nor withholding measurements over the phone is going to protect them from a talented pattern maker copying it by eye or by buying a used jacket whatever. Anyway, it’s just weird. Stronghold aims to retail rack jackets but is at the same time prohibited from giving the minimal amount of sizing help.


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I agree it's silly, it doesn't deter the professionals from copying it anyway and makes the life of true customers harder. Ironically, Addict Clothes might have the measurements online, you might want to check on them :D
 

red devil

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And indeed...

http://addict-clothes.com/shop/addict-clothes-new-vintage/leather-jacket/ad-01/4877/

Google translate is accurate:

34INCH Front Length 62 cm Back Length 64 cm Shoulder Width 41 cm Width 47 cm Hem Width 44 cm Sleeve Length 60 cm
36INCH Front Length 64 cm Back Length 66 cm Shoulder Width 43 cm Width 49 cm Hem Width 46 cm Sleeve Length 62 cm
38INCH Front Length 66 cm Back Length 68 cm Shoulder Width 45 cm Width 52 cm Hem Width 49 cm Sleeve Length 63 cm
40INCH Front length 67 cm Back length 69 cm Shoulder width 47 cm Width 55 cm Hem width 52 cm Sleeve length 64 cm
42INCH Front length 67 cm Back length 69 cm Shoulder width 48 cm Width 57 cm Hem width 55 cm Sleeve length 64 cm
44INCH Front Length 68 cm Back Length 70 cm Shoulder Width 50 cm Width 59 cm Hem Width 56 cm Sleeve Length 65 cm
 

regius

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And indeed...

http://addict-clothes.com/shop/addict-clothes-new-vintage/leather-jacket/ad-01/4877/

Google translate is accurate:

34INCH Front Length 62 cm Back Length 64 cm Shoulder Width 41 cm Width 47 cm Hem Width 44 cm Sleeve Length 60 cm
36INCH Front Length 64 cm Back Length 66 cm Shoulder Width 43 cm Width 49 cm Hem Width 46 cm Sleeve Length 62 cm
38INCH Front Length 66 cm Back Length 68 cm Shoulder Width 45 cm Width 52 cm Hem Width 49 cm Sleeve Length 63 cm
40INCH Front length 67 cm Back length 69 cm Shoulder width 47 cm Width 55 cm Hem width 52 cm Sleeve length 64 cm
42INCH Front length 67 cm Back length 69 cm Shoulder width 48 cm Width 57 cm Hem width 55 cm Sleeve length 64 cm
44INCH Front Length 68 cm Back Length 70 cm Shoulder Width 50 cm Width 59 cm Hem Width 56 cm Sleeve Length 65 cm

Red Devil, thank you for the kind effort. I understand a bit the Japanese writing as it’s evolved from Chinese & the translation is right too. Anyway, a 44 is quite large! Even an Aero is not that roomy.


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red devil

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Red Devil, thank you for the kind effort. I understand a bit the Japanese writing as it’s evolved from Chinese & the translation is right too. Anyway, a 44 is quite large! Even an Aero is not that roomy.


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I am normally between a 44 and 42 depending on the patterns, with the lightning I am 42
 

regius

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New York
Talked to Marc in London. He was a bit surprised to hear that SH wouldn’t give out measurements. He gave me the measurements, and said they made it 1-2” longer overall for the store... I don’t think the store jackets will fit me, sleeves & body will be too long


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regius

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3,300
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New York
Question about the Bronx D pocket. It is a "phantom" D pocket (sorry, I just made it up), meaning that it's neither a patched D, nor a corded D, but simply a stitching line on the body panel. So, I wonder if there is any backing on the underside, otherwise this is the quintessential way to weaken a panel....
 

regius

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New York
According to my source, Lewis veg cow is the same tannery as Vicenza & Jerky (Aero).


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Mrfrown

One Too Many
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1,654
Reviving an old thread here but dang!

Never thought I’d want a green leather jacket til today.

Truly the depths of the jacket hole have yet to be plumbed by yours truly. My naïveté is showing
 

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