Let's talk about...shoes, baby!

[TwoToneDeuce]

There has been a bit about shoes going around and the comparative differences in the brands. I say we compile a list and rate the shoes in order of best to worst. This is of course a subjective rating but let’s try to be fair. I know a pair of Stacy's wont compare with a pair of AE and nothing really compares to bespoke shoes but lets give it a whirl add brands you know and change the orders accordingly.

-D

Best quality to lesser quality

Bespoke Shoes
Edward Green
Allen Edmonds
Aldens
Stacy Adams
Bostonian

 

[Tomasso]

Shall We Add One At A Time?

John Lobb Paris
Edward Green
Alden
Allen Edmonds
Stacy Adams
Bostonian

Let's remove bespoke from the discussion since it doesn't speak to quality per se.

 

[Barry]

I was just shoe "window shopping" this weekend too.

Any thoughts on where Yanko might fit? I liked shoe #04325

Barry

 

[TwoToneDeuce]

Let's remove bespoke from the discussion since it doesn't speak to quality per se.

I would be interested on hearing your thoughts on the reasoning that bespoke shoes (or clothes for that matter) are not of superior quality to anything "off the rack"

-D

 

[TwoToneDeuce]

I was just shoe "window shopping" this weekend too.

Any thoughts on where Yanko might fit? I liked shoe #04325

Barry

Yanko is certainly in the relm of Ed Green and Lobb.

-D


John Lobb Paris
Edward Green
Yanko
Alden
Allen Edmonds
Stacy Adams
Bostonian

 

[Tomasso]

Yanko is certainly in the relm of Ed Green and Lobb.

Then there quite a bargain since EG charges triple and JL Paris four times what Yanko charges. I'd say that they're closer to Alden.

 

[TwoToneDeuce]

Then there quite a bargain since EG charges triple and JL Paris four times what Yanko charges. I'd say that they're closer to Alden.

I have never owned them personally, I am going on reputation Thus the placement in the list right next to Alden.

-D

 

[Tony in Tarzana]

Since I wear a 13EEE, I'm pretty much watching from the sidelines, unless you are talking bespoke.

I get my shoes from Hitchcock, but I haven't seen anything jazzy from them.

EDIT: Just checked their website again. The fanciest they have to offer are wingtips, no spectators, unless you buy their golf shoes.

 

[Zach R.]

From what I've seen, Alden and AE are approximately the same quality-wise, and of course I'd put stacy Adams at the bottom. I'm just going off of pairs of shoes that I've owned:

Alden/Allen Edmonds
Bostonian
Florsheim
Stacy Adams

I might splurge on more expensive shoes from EG or JLP, but as of right now my collegiate budget just can't handle it...maybe when I get my doctorate or knock over a jewelers.

BTW, I wear a 9.5EEE if any of you guys find any deals and want to be so kind as to pass the word along.

 

[The Wingnut]

If we're mentioning Stacy Adams, should put Giorgio Brutini on the list as well.

Both do some pretty wild off-the-wall and what most here would probably agree as distasteful shoes, but they both produce some pretty respectable for the price spectators and conservative dress shoes.

Brutini does some killer modern ties, as well, a few I've seen could almost pass for mid to late '40s prints.

 

[Tomasso]

I would be interested on hearing your thoughts on the reasoning that bespoke shoes (or clothes for that matter) are not of superior quality to anything "off the rack"

Bespoke is about the method of make, measurements are taken, patterns/lasts are made that are unique to the individual, then the garment/shoe is ready to assemble. Whether the item is then made by hand or by machine does not make a difference, it's still bespoke.

For instance, an Oxxford RTW suit has more handwork than a Saville Row suit but it's still RTW. It's simply a matter of fit(bespoke) vs. construction(handwork), they're two totally different issues.

 

[TwoToneDeuce]

Bespoke is about the method of make, measurements are taken, patterns/lasts are made that are unique to the individual, then the garment/shoe is ready to assemble. Whether the item is then made by hand or by machine does not make a difference, it's still bespoke.

For instance, an Oxxford RTW suit has more handwork than a Saville Row suit but it's still RTW. It's simply a matter of fit(bespoke) vs. construction(handwork), they're two totally different issues.

Now I have a better understanding of your opinion. I would still think that the fit of bespoke shoes/clothes, as well as normally a superior construction, would put bespoke above any of even the best RTW shoes. That's of course just and opinion, and it is based on not having ever had bespoke shoes only bespoke suits.

-D

 

[TwoToneDeuce]

From what I've seen, Alden and AE are approximately the same quality-wise, and of course I'd put stacy Adams at the bottom. I'm just going off of pairs of shoes that I've owned:

Alden/Allen Edmonds
Bostonian
Florsheim
Stacy Adams

I might splurge on more expensive shoes from EG or JLP, but as of right now my collegiate budget just can't handle it...maybe when I get my doctorate or knock over a jewelers.

BTW, I wear a 9.5EEE if any of you guys find any deals and want to be so kind as to pass the word along.

So adding and reordering this is what you suggest

John Lobb Paris
Edward Green
Yanko
Alden
Allen Edmonds
Bostonian
Bostonian
Stacy Adams

 

[TwoToneDeuce]

If we're mentioning Stacy Adams, should put Giorgio Brutini on the list as well.

Both do some pretty wild off-the-wall and what most here would probably agree as distasteful shoes, but they both produce some pretty respectable for the price spectators and conservative dress shoes.

Brutini does some killer modern ties, as well, a few I've seen could almost pass for mid to late '40s prints.

So adding and reordering this is what you suggest

John Lobb Paris
Edward Green
Yanko
Alden
Allen Edmonds
Bostonian
Bostonian
Stacy Adams
Giorgio Brutini

 

[Barry]

What if you wanted to purchase a pair of shell cordovan shoes or boots? Does Alden have a larger selection and/or better quality than AE?

Alden's website and Alden resellers seem to focus quite a bit on shell cordovan.

Leather Soul Hawaii

 

[Tomasso]

I would still think that the fit of bespoke shoes/clothes, as well as normally a superior construction, would put bespoke above any of even the best RTW shoes.

No. See, you're mixing apples and oranges. Fit is one aspect, construction another. The quality of construction of a bespoke suit can range from poor to sublime, there is no such thing as "normally superior construction". In reference to quality, there's a tremendous gulf between a bespoke HK suit and one from Despos, Logsdail or Raphael. And, no suit will be made better than an Oxxford. Oxxford MTM is the sweet spot of tailored menswear, unless one has some particular physical abnormalities that require bespoke.

 

[TwoToneDeuce]

No. See, you're mixing apples and oranges. Fit is one aspect, construction another. The quality of construction of a bespoke suit can range from poor to sublime, there is no such thing as "normally superior construction". In reference to quality, there's a tremendous gulf between a bespoke HK suit and one from Despos, Logsdail or Raphael. And, no suit will be made better than an Oxxford. Oxxford MTM is the sweet spot of tailored menswear, unless one has some particular physical abnormalities that require bespoke.

I guess I have never run into the kind of custom work you have. Few tailors that would actually take on a bespoke suit would do "poor" construction as attempting a bespoke mens suit is not a challenge for a novice tailor. And most tailors know that if you are paying top dollar for a custom made suit, you will not let the quality slide.

-D

 

[Tomasso]

Few tailors that would actually take on a bespoke suit would do "poor" construction as attempting a bespoke mens suit is not a challenge for a novice tailor. And most tailors know that if you are paying top dollar for a custom made suit, you will not let the quality slide.

-D

Please don't take offense but your statement is drenched in naivet?©. There are less than a dozen master bespoke tailors in America. The rest are slapdash shops. The work from these masters starts at 4k. That's life in the big city. Again, please don't take offence.

 

[matei]

I'm a fan of Trickers... I have 4 pairs, and they are the most comfortable shoes I have ever worn.

My Aldens are a close second.

I had a pair of Florsheim wingtips, they weren't bad but... I don't know, they felt very "plastic". Very light weight though.

There has been a bit about shoes going around and the comparative differences in the brands. I say we compile a list and rate the shoes in order of best to worst. This is of course a subjective rating but let’s try to be fair. I know a pair of Stacy's wont compare with a pair of AE and nothing really compares to bespoke shoes but lets give it a whirl add brands you know and change the orders accordingly.

-D

Best quality to lesser quality

Bespoke Shoes
Edward Green
Allen Edmonds
Aldens
Stacy Adams
Bostonian

 

["Doc" Devereux]

I'm a fan of Trickers... I have 4 pairs, and they are the most comfortable shoes I have ever worn.

...And thanks to Matei giving us the nod about Tricker's sale, so am I.