Leather jackets - beyond the A-2

[Spaniel]

Howdy all..

Just wanted to pick your collective brains about leather jackets. The bias on this forum seems heavily towards A-2 repros!

I am tossing up between a G-1 repro, or a civilian half-belt. My questions are;

1) I don't care so much about acquiring a fastidiously accurate reproduction. Who would you recommend in terms of fit and build quality, if historical accuracy is not a factor? Are US authentic any good, or is the quality not as fine as the more prestigious makers?

2) I am broad shouldered and not 5'10, maybe 10 lbs over what I should be, with a small gut. Is the high waist of G-1s and A-2s only flattering on trim guys?

3) If I decided against a military repro, and went a half-belt, which vendors would you recommend as the best bang for your buck? I have been looking at Goodwear, Alexander and Aero. Is there anyone else worth considering?

Keep in mind I live in Australia, so warmth of the jacket is not the top priority, but I want something that fits well, and lasts for decades.

 

[the loco]

The classic fit G-1's are quite big. Have one Schott G-1 in M and it's bigger then a leather Schott MA-1 in L. I like the macho look of the G-1, I'm thinking about a slim fit Schott G-1 without patches and a AN-J-4 for colder days that's somewhat similar design.

 

[morrison2951]

For a non-military jacket I'm a fan of the US made Vanson Enfield. A new one will be cowhide.

If you can find a good pre-owned one from several years back I'd recommend the HH. It will definitely last for decades.

 

[tropicalbob]

Take a look at Johnson leathers in San Francisco. From what I've seen and read on the FL, they seem to be absolutely one of the best deals around. Their website sucks, but there are a number of threads here to give you a pretty good idea of them. FWIW, there is a whole world of styles beyond the A2.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Not everyone here likes or has an A2. I've never owned one. There are many options. Do you really want a jacket with knits? I personally don't care for them. I'd go second hand initially and then play by ear. Your first jacket is rarely your last. It's often more like a test of fit, pattern and materials. You may find 3oz horse hide too cumbersome and warm around here. How much do you want to spend?

 

[Seb Lucas]

Not everyone here likes or has an A2. I've never owned one. There are many options. Do you really want a jacket with knits? I personally don't care for them. I'd go second hand initially and then play by ear. Your first jacket is rarely your last. It's often more like a test of fit, pattern and materials. You may find 3oz horse hide too cumbersome and warm around here. How much do you want to spend?

I'd go Johnson leathers too if you want a custom job. I've had them make me three. Goat or 2.25 oz horse would work well.

 

[Vespizzare]

I have an A1 which I like better. The buttons are out of the ordinary and I sometimes like leaving it unbuttoned on the bottom.

+1 for Johnson Leather. Alan is the greatest.

 

[Edward]

I am tossing up between a G-1 repro, or a civilian half-belt. My questions are;

Two different, equally worth, looks imo... Personally, for a 'capsule leathe jacket wardrobe' I'd suggest buying an off-the-rack G1 type and a nice black halfbelt from one of the premium vendors. You're likely, eventually, to have a lucky find on eBay, for example, with a G1/M442a type from one of the big names, so that could be a decider. Personally, I find a civilian halfbelt a more 'flexible' look day to day than a military repro, though if there's an exception to that, it's an unbadged G1.

I don't care so much about acquiring a fastidiously accurate reproduction. Who would you recommend in terms of fit and build quality, if historical accuracy is not a factor? Are US authentic any good, or is the quality not as fine as the more prestigious makers?

Can't comment on USA, but I've seen a lot of very nice current milspec G1s. The G1 was reissued by the USN in the 90s, after a period of being out of service. Unlike the A2, the modern version seems to have changed little from the original, and if you're not fussed on stitch-for-stitch period reproduction, it's a good choice for wearing as a civilian adaptation of a military look as was popular in the late forties and into the fifties. The current spec is back to goatskin (not stamped cowhide), and the collars are, I believe, once more real mouton. given the parameters of what you're after, I wouldn't spend too much on one of these, as what you want can be had on a budget. I can't speak to the US Authentic line, but I've seen folks here being very happy with G1s from Cockpit (who I believe have a current milspec contract), and Gibson & Barnes. Aero don't do the G1, though their M422a and AN6552 are as near as makes no difference, both GBP500 (a rung up in price). Eastman do a very nice G1 repro indeed, but pricier again.

Current milspec jackets have, if memory serves, the same sort of hardware as a lot of the originals (the paperclip zip.... I'm blanking on the name, began with an S....).

2) I am broad shouldered and not 5'10, maybe 10 lbs over what I should be, with a small gut. Is the high waist of G-1s and A-2s only flattering on trim guys?

Length shouldn't be a problem (though if you're a fan of hipster-waist trews, you might want to try a tall size, which some do - G&B, I know). The USN boys, going by photos, seem as a rule to have worn their jackets a little bigger than what many favour with the A2 today (photos of those of course reveal fits all over the shop...). I'm fairly chubby myself, but I don't see this as a problem, with the right sized jacket. They were cut much neater than an A2, though - expect to go up a size or two from your normal. (As ever, go by the fit, not the numbers...).

3) If I decided against a military repro, and went a half-belt, which vendors would you recommend as the best bang for your buck? I have been looking at Goodwear, Alexander and Aero. Is there anyone else worth considering?

Goodwear are outstanding; Aero are fabulous too. Great to deal with, and a superb range of patterns. If you can ascertain your correct size, with a little patience a great jacket can come up on their sale page. Ask their advice on everything (always go with their advice - Holly and the team know their stuff, plus if they get it wrong it's a whole lot easier to - worst case scenario - ship back for repalcement than it is to do so if you demanded a certain size and it turns out you were wrong). The Aero range of halfbelts is wide - something for all tastes. They do also permit minor modifications nowadays (not the free for all it once was; the strategy now is to keep a bit more control over what is out there bearing their name). Don't expect to design oyur own jacket, but if all you want is to delete a chest pocket or add a throat latch, asking nicely and saying please will work wonders! Be open too to their advice - sometimes if you describe everything you want, a different model than you think might be a better option for you.

Keep in mind I live in Australia, so warmth of the jacket is not the top priority, but I want something that fits well, and lasts for decades.

In your climate, I'd suggest looking to the lighter hides. In terms of durability, I can certainly vouch for the Aeros I've owned. My Aero A2 and the AN6552 are both seal goatskin, and fantastic jackets. As durable as the FQHH, but lighter. Bear in mind too, if you're not sticking with the standard lining in the USN jacket or if you're looking for a Halfbelt that the lining can dictatehow warm the jacket is as much as the hide; be advised according by the maker.

Take a look at Johnson leathers in San Francisco. From what I've seen and read on the FL, they seem to be absolutely one of the best deals around. Their website sucks, but there are a number of threads here to give you a pretty good idea of them. FWIW, there is a whole world of styles beyond the A2.

If the D pocket motorcycle jacket I have is anything to go by, Johnson are definitely great. I bought used, though, so can't comment on what they are like to deal with directly, or at a distance. Until you're very sure what works for you and what measurements suit best in a given style, though, it might be best to stick to a stock design rather than going custom. In most cases, a custom is yours whether it works for you in the long run, or no.

Not everyone here likes or has an A2. I've never owned one. There are many options. Do you really want a jacket with knits? I personally don't care for them. I'd go second hand initially and then play by ear. Your first jacket is rarely your last. It's often more like a test of fit, pattern and materials. You may find 3oz horse hide too cumbersome and warm around here. How much do you want to spend?

Budget is definitely an issue. You'll find it hard to track down anyone making a halfbeltg for a premium price, whereas a mid-price, milspec G1 is widely available. Knits do seem to be a divisive issue for some.... personally, I like them on the right jacket, but years ago I had a girlfriend who expressly forbade me from wearing ny leather jacket with knits. Never understood what her issue with them was (though, frankly, given her many "issues", I rather suspect I'd be foolish to have gone looking for logic in it). lol

 

[Spaniel]

I'd go Johnson leathers too if you want a custom job. I've had them make me three. Goat or 2.25 oz horse would work well.

I think I prefer the HH. I don't like the grainy pebbles of the goat, at least from what I've seen online.

I'll check out Johnson.

Would any other forumites also recommend Alexander?

 

[Spaniel]

Thank you for the in depth reply, Edward. Sage advice indeed.

 

[Plumbline]

I wouldn't be unhappy with a jacket from ANY of the major/minor repro manufacturers Bill Kelso, Diamond Dave, Lost Worlds, Eastman ... I've bought ( either new or 2nd hand) from them all and I can safely say that in my experience EVERY ONE OF THEM has lived up to or exceeded my expectations. Be very clear what's important to you ... for me it's the facility to customise, speed of delivery and quality of construction. This means that unless I'm buying from "the bay" the lead times for most frustrate the hell out of me .. .any more than a month or so and I'm ****** off, any more than 3 months and I'm cancelling the order !

Bill Kelso and Alexanders have the quickest turn around IMHO, all the others are much of a muchness so long as it's off the shelf / rack ..... other than that wait time is 2 - 16 months ( way too long for me ... but that's just me). As far as customisation Alexanders, Bill Kelso and Diamond Dave have it by a mile. If you're in the US, Aero through Thurston ( who have dedicated production slots) are superb and will get you your new Aero often quicker than going direct. Eastman have always delivered exceptional jackets ( military repro's) and now they've moved into the non-military arena I cannot see that this will change ... their products have always been superb and Gary is ppossibly one of the most knowledgeable guys in the repro jacket field. If you can get past Stu's "quirky " nature the jackets from lost worlds are utterly indestructable and many would say "over engineered" but stunning none the less.

Overall it's a GREAT time to be a jacket buyer ... choice is so much better than 10 years ago and the quality of most now is outstanding both in terms of construction and also variety. If you want a 1920's / 30's repro then Aero or Goodwear .... if you want some of the best hides going the Bill Kelso or Goodwear or Aero or Alexanders or ... oh ... probably all of them If you want customisation Alexanders, Bill Kelso, Diamond Dave ...... choice is a good thing and the price point is also a choice from £250 off the rack on the sale pages at Alexanders to £1000 from JC and Stu.

All in all .. you takes yer choice and pays yer money ... and usually leather things of beauty created by artisans appear in the post ... what's not to like

For what it's worth I'd go halfbelt purely from a flexibillity perspective, the reasons are 5 fold :

1. It's a classic timeless design
2. It can be worn equally well with jeans and dress trousers
3. it can be layered up ( via letting out the side adjusters) in cooler climes and cinched in in the summer with a T-shirt
4. It looks equally good regardless of the hide for manufacture ( Goat / Horse / Steer / Kudu / Deer )
5. It has a flattering fit wether you are thin or stocky

Just MHO .... If it was me I'd keep my eyes peeled for a halfbelt on the Alexanders Outlet, Aero Sale Pages rather than paying similar amounts for US Authentic .... I picked up an "Indiana" in Mongolian Horse for £250 and a Horween CXL Steer "Simmonds Bilt" for £350 .... I also picked up an ANJ-4 for £400 on the Aero sale pages. There are bargains to be had look around. If your not weded to "NEW" then the ebay route is the best where lightly used jackets trade for £150 - £500 from most of the major repro vendors.

Phone them ( Holly - Aero, Amanda - Alexanders, Gary- Eastman, Andy - Bill Kelso etc. etc. etc. ) give them your ACCURATE measurements and they will get you a jacket which fits great ... you will not be dissapointed with any of them ( at least I have not been)

HTH

 

[handymike]

Well written PL!

 

[Seb Lucas]

I have a custom goat half-belt by Alexanders. It's still pretty heavy and depending on where you live in Australia, you may not get all that much wear out of it - a few weeks in winter, maybe.

 

[Vespizzare]

The weird thing is: Aero and Alexander and the top makers aren't that expensive when you compare them to leather jackets in the stores. It blows me away when I look at Nordstrom's or various catalogs like Orvis. Ralph Lauren leather jackets and that ilk are $1500 or some incredible amount and they're not nearly as nice as the makers featured here and it seems like the most common "high end" hide is lambskin.

I like jackets but I don't think I'd buy from Alexander or Aero because I don't like all the add-on charges: VAT, duties, shipping, etc. Besides, my terribly good friend Alan at Johnson Leathers can make anything under the Sun (and he's just an easy phone call away).

 

[Seb Lucas]

The weird thing is: Aero and Alexander and the top makers aren't that expensive when you compare them to leather jackets in the stores. It blows me away when I look at Nordstrom's or various catalogs like Orvis. Ralph Lauren leather jackets and that ilk are $1500 or some incredible amount and they're not nearly as nice as the makers featured here and it seems like the most common "high end" hide is lambskin.

Well, that's all about brand, marketing and mass taste. The average person has probably heard about Ralph Lauren - not many have heard about Alexander or Johnson. Fewer still would have an awareness of hide. In this we are very fortunate.