leather jacket porn for fetishists and zealots

[majormajor]

What's been put in place of the cord section? If my memory serves me, Holly said that you didn't get the cord inserts on vintage jackets, which is why they're being phased out.

My understanding was that the leather inner lower panel was being replaced with a similar cord panel. So now that's gone, too? When did that change??

 

[Fanch]

Do yourself a favor and keep that 50's HB. My favorite of the three!

I couldn't agree more with Pauleway about keeping the 50's HB, although the Hercules might be my slight favorite between the two. Remember how difficult it was for you to find something that fit properly (The Long and Winding Road thread) before arrival of your 50's HB? There is no question in my mind that eventually you will regret flipping the 50's HB should you proceed, and I think that you already have one of the sleeves of the 50's HB out the door.:eeek: In fact, the 50's HB and Hercules complement (and compliment) each other. You have an impressive collection, all of which seem to fit properly. Enjoy them in good health, including the 50's HB.:cheers1: DON'T SELL THE 50's HB!shakeshead

 

[Fanch]

My understanding was that the leather inner lower panel was being replaced with a similar cord panel. So now that's gone, too? When did that change??

Ken personally e-mailed me stating: "In my humble opinion it (cord strip) severely detracts from the look of the jacket." Based on FL pictures of the cord strip that I have seen on numerous jackets, I can understand his position. Above all else, Ken's sense of creative genius has gradually become apparent to me. The question in my mind is whether the functional aspect of protection of the lining at the bottom of the jacket by the cord strip overrides the negative aesthetics of it's being there.

 

[Sloan1874]

I quite liked mine - at least, I thought the colour and quality of the cord is fantastic and complements the lining. I'll be interested to see what replaces it. If anything.

 

[wdw]

I thought the cord was also to prevent the lining from sagging under the hem, which some people used to complain about. That was my thinking when I got it.

 

[Cooperson]

Three very nice jackets. The Hercules looks very special, beautiful colour and obviously very well made - I wasn't even aware machinists did f**k about, shows what I know about leather jacket manufacture

Good to get a close look around an Alexander jacket, looks like a slimmed down Highwayman with higher cut armholes. Would like see it again when the steer has broken in.

Great pics, thanks for sharing.

 

[Fanch]

I thought the cord was also to prevent the lining from sagging under the hem, which some people used to complain about. That was my thinking when I got it.

Eric, the possibility of sagging of the lining at the bottom hem is also my concern. Should that happen in your case, sending the jacket back to Galashiels would be inconvenient. However, for me a round trip from Texas to Galashiels would incur major shipping expense as well as hassle with Customs at both ends. My thinking is that function would trump aesthetics, particularly in my situation.

 

[Alistar79]

The hercules is a stunning piece of work you must be a very very proud man.

 

[schitzo]

I am surprised to see this much love for the HB. Especially given that all you lot have seen is those two bog standard photos. I agree it'd be good to have that one in reserve if, heaven forbid, anything should happen to the Herc. But I can only wear one at a time! And I already have too many to travel with. On the other hand, I did put the hard yards into that HB and I feel like the rewards ought to be mine.. so I am genuinely caught in two minds here

@Sloan the Herc has no cord strip just moleskin lining. There does not seem to be sufficient slack for any overhang to form, but I guess only time will tell. If he would have done it I would have asked for another cord strip.

But given that I'd already returned the HB to Scotland at the turn of the year after Holly's kind offer to fit one, and that this was before Ken changed his mind I suppose they felt compelled to deliver on the arrangement. I asked for the smallest hem possible that would still be functional, as I think those big ones aren't a good look. The HB came back with a 3 inch brown cord strip and against the brown cotton drill to my eye it doesn't look at all bad

@WDW
For the chest measurements I have measured in inches across the front (F), across the back (B) and the side panels (SPs)

Herc size 38
Chest: F 20.25, B 19, SPs 8.5. Total = 47.75
Shoulders: 18.5

HB size 38
Chest: F 21, B 19.5, SPs 8.5. Total = 49
Shoulders: 19

Roadster size 40
Chest: F 20.25, B 19.25, SPs 8.5. Total = 48
Shoulder:18

I found that last set a bit surprising

 

[Fanch]

Schitz, I was wondering how your Aero FQHH 50’s HB compares to your AL Roadster in terms of weight and feel? My black vintage Highwayman FQHH is only ½” longer in the body and 1 ½” longer in the sleeves than my brown steerhide Highwayman that I bought on Aero's sale page in June of last year. However, my black vintage FQHH Highwayman is significantly heavier, thicker, and stiffer than my steerhide Highwayman and thought that you might have some comparative impressions between your 50's HB and Roadster? BTW the 27 ½” sleeves on my black vintage FQHH Highwayman 'feels' much better when worn with my long arms than my brown steerhide Highwayman with only 26” sleeves, which means that I will probably flip my brown steerhide Highwayman with too short 26” sleeves sooner than later. I still maintain that you should keep your 50's HB!

 

[Benny Holiday]

Thanks for the great critique Schitz! The Hercules has got me drooling. I've long admired the Herc's design and seeing it displayed and worn in your pics only makes me want one more! Man it looks like Christmas pt 2 at your place with three sweet jackets to choose from.

 

[schitzo]

Schitz, I was wondering how your Aero FQHH 50’s HB compares to your AL Roadster in terms of weight and feel?

The HB is a bit broader and .75 of an inch longer. It weighs 200 grams more, so basically they both weigh the same. Given that the HB is broken now the leather is pliable all over - it can be folded in any direction with ease - and so when I put it on it does what I say and is real comfortable.

The steer on the roadster is more pliable to begin with than the FQHH but could still do with some softening up in areas, most notably the collar. It'll be interesting to see how quickly this one breaks, and I guess some HWT and walks in the rain will only help accelerate that

 

[Worf]

Ken put a cord hem in my modded Cossack I got from Graeme. I personally love it. It's right where it needs to be.

Worf

 

[Capesofwrath]

I hope they aren't going to not give the customer the option of a cord strip if that's what he wants. I have a jacket on order with a strip specified and I prefer the alpaca lining to be protected at the bottom from wear to authenticity. I'm not an actor in a picture, and it's not a military style jacket which I want to look exactly the same as an issue one.

Anyway complete period authenticity is not something I really care about that much, and if he's going to start going overboard on it he might need to find some authentically period sized customers too.

 

[majormajor]

This is what Aero were saying back in November 2012, when they stopped doing the leather strip on the inner hem:

"The cord would sit much better than the leather does, which is why we don't want to continue offering this as an option. It can risk spoiling the line of the jacket.

Cord is the traditional method to stop this from happening. It is used for two reasons in particular, the cord grain is running across the bottom, not up and down which makes it a strong choice. And the lining sagging is caused by the fact certain materials don't have a tight enough weave which is why it tends to hang down if there's a lining like tartan, whereas cotton drill won't and neither will cord.

If you'd like us to fit a cord overlay on your jacket for you, we can free of charge, just email me and we'll make arrangements"

So a refusal to do even the cord would sound a little retrograde to me....

 

[schitzo]

Ken put a cord hem in my modded Cossack I got from Graeme. I personally love it. It's right where it needs to be.

Worf

I like mine too. I guess our jackets were done just in time, before he changed his mind. And now that he has, presumably he has his reasons and isn't gonna change it back


Retrograde or not Major that is the situation. When I spoke to Holly she didn't seem to have any further light to shed, just that she was told to offer hems but has now been been told not to.

 

[Capesofwrath]

It might be a good idea for her to post here about the change if it is happening. I'll be in touch with her soon about it I expect. In my opinion if the customer wants it the customer should get it. It's not the same as some of the odd looking jackets produced under the old regime which I can understand them not wanting to continue making and to have their label on.

 

[wdw]

I suppose a hem strip adds more effort, time and cost, so won't help the backlog, and all for no return.

I could see it maybe being a chargeable option to new orders, unless there's an outright ban.

 

[Dr H]

With respect, regardless of whether the customer wants the modification, if the move is towards more standardisation/fewer options (as appears to have been posted elsewhere) then it might be that this is something that a customer would have to do after market.

 

[Capesofwrath]

I ordered a jacket with a strip about a month ago. I asked if there was a charge, which I was quite prepared to pay, and was told there wouldn't be one. So if they really are just going to start changing orders by diktat without even telling their customers I for one am not happy about it.

Of course it may well be that they are not offering it with new orders but will honour existing ones. So in that case I suppose it might seem fair enough. But I still think that what the customer wants is the most important consideration, within reason; and a cord strip is not a HWM with twelve zips on it.