Leather Jacket...leather types

[Lord LALA]

Newby here...looking to jump into the cauldron with the purchase of a Vanson Enfield, or alternatively a Vanson Model A.

They both look to be very nicely made, and both have the bi-swing back which I like. I'll primarily be wearing the jacket for fashion as I have moto jackets for that purpose. I live in SoCal so weather protection is rarely an issue. Having said that, I still want a jacket that looks the part.

Now for the questions...

1. Vanson offers two grades of cowhide, "competition" and a lighter weight "Firenza", can anyone comment on the characteristics of these?

2. Other manufacturers offer horsehide which seems to have a unique patina which I've read favorably of. Can anyone comment re horsehide?

FWIW.. I've previously owned a Taylor Leathers "Nashville". I liked it well enough, until I was exposed to nicer leather jackets. Currently wearing a Dianese "Archivo", a looser/ shorter Dainese in Euro 48 which fiits fine. Whatever I end up buying, it will probably need shortening/customizing as I'm 5-6, 135 lb. and would like to get the rear jacket length in the 24 inch range. I've also looked at a Schott jacket which I liked but the Vansons seem to be edging out the Schott.

Any comments and suggestions appreciated.

 

[Bunyip]

Hi mate,
Welcome to the board! Vanson competition weight is a very solid peice of kit. If you ride, that's the way to go. It is bullet proof, takes a while to patina, but looks fantastic when broken in. I don't know enough about the Firenza, but from memory, it has a dull sheen to it. I much prefer the Comp weight.
Horsehide is lovely stuff, there are varying degrees of quality of it out there. Aero horse is superb, just smells beautiful and ages gracefully.
http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com
There is also a dude called Diamond Dave that has the same stuff Aero uses. He also has a horsehide called Shinki, which is revered around these parts. He does a great cafe racer (j100) at a great price,and it's custom made to your measurements.
http://www.diamondclothingco.com/#!the-jackets/c1t4w

Yet another option at a great price is Johnson leathers in San Fran. Alan there is a guru, he will copy anything you want in your choice of leather/ lining. Many many satisfied customers of his frequent this board.
http://www.johnsonleather.com


If your not riding, I would recommend one of the above two. Great for casual wear, they can also be worn on the bike. They are easier to wear than a bullet proof Comp weight Vanson, which will take you an age to break in for casual wearing. If you order custom at Vanson get ready to wait 6 months+

I've owned several Schott and a few Vanson. I used to be a lunatic for Schott, but these days, if I had to choose, I would go for Vanson if the models where similar.

Good luck, enjoy the search!

 

[Monitor]

1. Vanson offers two grades of cowhide, "competition" and a lighter weight "Firenza", can anyone comment on the characteristics of these?

I agree that the comp. weight Vanson leather is nicer than the Firenze, but if you don't plan on using it on a bike, it's an overkill, really. Bunyip is spot on - extremely heavy and unforgiving leather! Hard to move in. It will take you a good few years of use just for the hide to start showing any sort of aging. Goes faster if you ride in it... Which brings us to another point - while Model A is a great jacket (my all time favorite), it is much more of a dedicated riding jacket than, say, Enfield or Model B. Means, slightly forward facing sleeves, super short in the front, long in the back, etc., etc. It's designed primarily for use on a bike.

Did you look into the Model B? Lot like Mod. A, just a lot more 'street' friendly. Also, Vanson offers this special kind of leather which is something in between their comp. and mid weight firenze, but I think you'd have to go custom for it.

Schott is sort of a middle ground between riding and fashion (riding fashion?) so for a more casual use, I would actually recommend it over Vanson. Quality-wise, they're equal to Vanson (and anyone else for that matter) but the leather Schott uses is relatively lighter and definitely a lot softer - which isn't to say it is a light leather, by any definition! Fantastically beautiful Horsehide! Watch out for the fit, though!

2. Other manufacturers offer horsehide which seems to have a unique patina which I've read favorably of. Can anyone comment re horsehide?

Horsehide is... Ones that I had seen were great. I prefer it over cowhide but then again, many people have said Aero Steerhide (cowhide) beats Horsehide in every way. It's all about how the leather has been tanned and processed, and in general, one isn't better than the other by default. Horses for courses, as Edward woud say.

Seriously, if you want a jacket that looks the part, go Aero. That's their thing and it's what they do best! DD makes some great stuff too though no bi-swing back on any of his CR models, which is another reason why Aero is your best bet.

 

[Edward]

In a straight choice, I'd take Vanson over Schott. Here in London they're around the same rice new, like for like, but the Vanson is better imo. Both nice, though. Aero are my favourite, though I don't ride these days, so mine haven't had bike time.

 

[Peacoat]

As Bunyip said, the Vanson Competition weight will take several years to break in. Once it does, though, it is a real nice leather, soft and with nice grain. Which brings me to your second question. You mentioned horsehide as having an unique "patina." I think you actually mean a unique grain, which is different from patina. Patina develops on the surface of the jacket and is seen as wear on the top of the leather.

Horsehide develops a unique graining pattern, at least some of it does. I have a couple of HH jackets that are showing very little grain development. Maybe that is to come as I wear them more.

BTW, welcome to the Lounge.

 

[Seb Lucas]

For your needs and climate I'd stay away from Vanson competition hide. Too warm and too unyielding. You'll rarely wear it. Our weather is similar and I find I rarely need any leather here if it's over 62 degrees. When I do, a thinner hide - 2.2oz to 2.5oz is fine. I personally have preferred Schott over other makes but you do have to take care with fit and pattern. Some of their stuff is fashion nonsense. If you can fit a 641XX it is a wonderful period cafe racer pattern but still a bit thick hide-wise - close to 3oz.

If I ever buy another new jacket it will be goat or a thin horse hide. The Vanson Firenze leather is still pretty thinck at 2.5oz. I would find that heavy enough myself in any weather over 62 degrees. I almost got a Model B in Firenze once but I don't like the fabric lined collar.

 

[Monitor]

I spent a last couple of days trying to find a good CR maker that works with lighter leather, other than the Schott fashion nonsense, but I can't find anything. I'm not too crazy about Vansons firenze leather nor am I fan of goatskin as it's too grainy. What else is there??

 

[avique]

The Vanson comp. weight leather is a beast but you'll love it.

 

[handymike]

@Monitor Try Thedi.

@LordLALA I live in LA, and anything heavier than Shinki/ Vicenza got sold off because it's just too much for my casual wear. Vanson makes nice jackets, but you might give Carrie at Thurston Bros a call to chat about options.
Welcome to the lounge!

 

[Seb Lucas]

I spent a last couple of days trying to find a good CR maker that works with lighter leather, other than the Schott fashion nonsense, but I can't find anything. I'm not too crazy about Vansons firenze leather nor am I fan of goatskin as it's too grainy. What else is there??

I had Johnson Leathers make me a goat cafe racer - pretty light and I don't notice the wrinkles.

I would choose a thinner steerhide or cowhide. They are old favorites and undervalued by many. If you're talking 2.5oz you can have HH, cowhide or steer-hide in plenty of treatments. Johnson Leathers was using a 2.2oz Horween HH that was beautiful and nice and light without compromising on strength. Damn it... now I wanna get another one.

 

[morrison2951]

Another vote for the Vanson Enfield- and I feel very fortunate to have one in HH before Vanson moved away from HH to cow.

 

[Justhandguns]

If you are getting a Vanson, the comp.hide is a must. There is really no point in getting a Vanson if you just go for their other hides (well, if you get find their custom horsehide, that's different).

 

[Lord LALA]

Thanks all! After much deliberation and countless hours staring at the ceiling I'm tending towards the Aero "August".

I've also posted up on the "Thurston Bros Affiliate Thread" hoping to get some pics of the "action back" found on the "August" model as well as pics of the various models with the "shoulder gussets"

Thanks again for the warm welcome!