Leather jacket in "The Big Sleep" 1946

[Creeping Past]

Demand.

It is no long lost secret to shape a collar, add snaps, buttons, pleats, etc. to a jacket. Jackets on the market today will have many of these individual details. What the vintage crowd likes are the particular combination of details.
There has to be a demand or a trend (as in those 30s-40s era jackets) for makers to produce these garments.

All true. And I'd prefer an affordable jacket in general retail. But I was suggesting a custom job...

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Here's my vintage HH "unmentional brand" '30s HalfBelt...just ask 'Unmentionable Co." to add bottom band...pointier collar...collar tab...

Then add some pleats..or inverted pleats on the back...

...should be much cheaper than the Asian repro..heh?
Just contact Will....oops!
HD

 

[fishmeok]

It's a basic jacket style, in my opinion you can call an Aero an Aero and have whatever you want done to it. Same as an A-2/A-1. We have a particular esthetic, defined by certain styles and periods and only differentiated by the small, subtle details most people would not notice. When I make a half belt this summer it's going to look a lot like both of those jackets, just with my own take on the details. Aero is one of the companies (along with The Few, Magnoli, Goodwear, BR, etc,) who care enough to get the details right.
Again, just my opinion.
Cheers
Mark

 

[H.Johnson]

I'm making a half-belt pattern myself at the moment. If I can pass on a tip I found (althought you've probably realised this already) the back panel in a 'non-seamed' version (like Aero's) is not tapered. The small tucks you see at the false belt make up the difference between the waist and the yoke, depending, I suppose, on the proportions of the jacket you are making. Its two rectangular panels, upper and lower back. Mine will be in some nice black horsehide I have obtained.

Keep making 'em!

 

[fishmeok]

Are you making one to fit you or do you have different sizes worked out? I'm just getting the size proportions figured for the A-2 styles and will have to go through it again for the half belts- though I think the actual shoulder and armhole proportions will be very similar. It looks like the arms have more of a forward angle than an A-2 and the body is obviously wider. It's really frustrating not being able to work on anything right now, probably won't even have my stuff set up in the new house until later in June.

BTW where did you find the horsehide?
Cheers
Mark

I'm making a half-belt pattern myself at the moment. If I can pass on a tip I found (althought you've probably realised this already) the back panel in a 'non-seamed' version (like Aero's) is not tapered. The small tucks you see at the false belt make up the difference between the waist and the yoke, depending, I suppose, on the proportions of the jacket you are making. Its two rectangular panels, upper and lower back. Mine will be in some nice black horsehide I have obtained.

Keep making 'em!

 

[H.Johnson]

I making it to fit me (I hope!). I wouldn't say the body of a half-belt style is wider than an A-2 style (which is basically a shirt) but it has extra panels under the arm, of course. I have deduced (from examining professional examples) that these side panels tend to be made from more flexible leather than the other panels - often 'shank' to judge by the grain. That's presumably to allow easier adjustment with the side belts, do you think? I'm going to include a yoke (Aero tends not to) but keep it simple. The arms (so far) are the two piece under arm, one piece outer arm style. I'm sure you know the contruction I'm talking about.

I bought the butt leathers through a guy I know who served his apprenticeship as a saddler and bridlemaker in Walsall (once leather capital of England and local to me) who has er...'local contacts' in the trade:
http://www.walsall.gov.uk/index/leisure_and_culture/leathermuseum/history_of_leather.htm
I didn't ask too many questions as to where he got it from, but it was cheap! I hope I have enough - I've put the pattern pieces over it roughly and it looks close. No matter, as it's black I should be able to match it with off-cuts fairly easily. Maybe even use cattlehide!

Incidentally, there is a leather merchant in Walsall called J & E Sedgewick, who provide the best (and heaviest) vegetable tanned (and retanned) butt cattlehide I have ever seen. It goes into top quality saddles and, although its very heavy, I have often toyed with the idea of making a jacket of it.

 

[H.Johnson]

Mark,

I don't know whether you know this, but you can buy good quality US-tanned horsehide in various sizes (front, draw or butt) on Ebay from the guy in New York who is often criticised on this forum for his attitude.

BTW where did you find the horsehide?
Cheers
Mark

 

[Charlie]

I found a corduroy Norfolk jacket, with just the same back panel design :

I'm starting a hunt for this kind of jacket, it's looks quite nice ! I let this one go for 23$ [huh]


Does some people here show me how fit me a similar jacket on them ?

Item number: 330330349582

The actions backs does not exist anymore, because in the 50's armholes were not tight anymore...the prupose was to fit easly a larger range of body...

Regards

 

[Fletch]

We have a particular esthetic, defined by certain styles and periods and only differentiated by the small, subtle details most people would not notice.

...but that mass-market garmentos DO notice, and deliberately do NOT provide, because they have to calculate cost per unit right down to the kittywhisker.