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Leather jacket Fur (mouton) collar attachment pattern.

photo2u

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claremont california
Friends, I am thinking of creating mouton collars for some of my jackets. However, I do not have some of the original patterns to guide me. I was thinking we can share images, so others can benefit and perhaps make their own. Currently, I have the following.

1. Original J24 Buco.
2. Vanson model E
3. Schott 184sm
4. Al's straight police jacket
5. Branded Garments CHP

I was thinking of using two 8.5x11 graphs 1" apart paper (placed next to each other) as a background for the collars to lay on. I am placing a PDF graph paper that can be used as the template.

Likewise, I welcome anyone to give input to improve and contribute their collars, so others can duplicate them.



Buco J24 original: Front, back, and a close-up of the strap. Very few have this strap.

IMPORTANT NOTE: THE FIRST IMAGE HAS THE MOUTON FLUSH WITH THE END OF THE 1" SQUARE. THE ANGLE IN THE IMAGE DOES NOT SHOW THAT CLEARLY. The mouton is 21.25 inches long.

B90600F1-CAC5-4B49-B0F9-A7A9CC4BAF33.jpeg

A0843EE1-2D20-4A00-BC94-285A7B382AB1.jpeg


775DAAB0-0F62-45A7-A582-2A205F0F39B0.jpeg
 

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Let me know if you need details from any of my jackets. Some, like Cals, are jacket-specific. I’m not sure if a template for making a collar would be as viable.
 

photo2u

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Let me know if you need details from any of my jackets. Some, like Cals, are jacket-specific. I’m not sure if a template for making a collar would be as viable.

Totally agree. The main problem with the collars is the location of the snaps on the jacket. After the pattern is created for that particular jacket e.g. Cal LAPD, you would need the following:

1. location of the jacket male snap.
2. Match the female snaps on the collar.

I use blue painter's tape on the mouton collar to protect the mouton collar. I use a light water base marker or craft pain to rub the male snap so it can give me a mark location. After I am happy with the way the collar fits, I then press the jacket collar with the mouton. The paint on the male snaps leaves a nice mark for me to use as my starting center hole. I know it sounds hard or difficult. But is not.
To cut and set the snaps, a snap setting set can be purchased from e-bay for less than 15 dollars. Depending on which color snaps and size you need, they can be purchased for less than 10 dollars on Etsy or eBay. I might do a short video of how to fit a new mouton collar on a jacket. There are excellent videos on youtube that demonstrate how to install snaps on leather.
 

photo2u

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claremont california
I was thinking of creating some collars for my two LW car coats. For these style jackets, I will use a zipper instead of snaps. The zipper is a good choice. Safe for motorcycle riding. I wonder why jacket makers stopped using them in the late 50s.
 

photo2u

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2,354
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claremont california
I'm posting pics of fur collar of my cycle champ using 1" graph paper attached on this thread.
The tag says the jacket size is 40.

I would be glad these pics can be help for your making.
View attachment 452096
View attachment 452105 View attachment 452106 View attachment 452107 View attachment 452108 View attachment 452109 View attachment 452110 View attachment 452111


Excellent! Thank you so very much for the great images and taking the time to contribute for others to view and share. The collar looks very high end in comparison to Schott and others. I particularly like the design and the straps. They remind me of the 40-50 kidney belts made by HD and Buco. The snaps will hold the collar in place in a class five hurricane lol. I was curious about the snap's maker. Scovill,DOT or Rau...
 
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photo2u

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claremont california
Anyone know of anyone making them for sale. I’d like to get one for my Schott but in rust (they sell black).

I know JL and LW make some. I also make a good quality one using 40s/50s repurpose mouton and leather. Thread and snaps are also new and NOS. No United Carr brand snaps. Very difficult to find for me.
 
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photo2u

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claremont california
Thanks! to me, the collar looks very much like the j23 collar pattern. for a proportion views of the collar, I was wondering if much is too to ask if you could please use the graph pattern included in the first post.
 

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photo2u

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2,354
Location
claremont california
These moutons are nice samples of quality 30s-50s material used back on the day.
close up mul.jpg
close up.jpg
lamb sheared mouton 30s 50s.jpg


Zipper for samples of #5 and different #10 The small strip of leather came from a repair I did on an original Buco j24 HH. By removing the extra piece of leather, made the jacket less stiff and very comfortable. Sadly, these improvements had to be done on some Vansons.
 

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