Leather jacket custom ordering

[vntg60s]

It looks great!

Worn jackets are harder to measure as they become more three dimensional. The only way to do it is measure inch by inch with a soft tape. Don't sweat over the numbers. Pic shows great jacket. Enjoy!

Thank you!

 

[willyto]

I welcome any helpful comments. Thanks

It looks fantastic! Great jacket and I'm sure you won't stop wearing it.

 

[Jasonissm]

Looks great! How is the mobility?

 

[Damon141]

I welcome any helpful comments. Thanks

Man that looks AMAZING from where I am sitting. That is perfect sleeve length for riding, for me anyway.

It’s trim and tailored without being too tight, tight works great for some but not all, really just personal preference but in my opinion that jacket is built for the real world.

Length is exactly where I like it, the tightness and slight bunches around the collar sre said to go away when broken in.

I can’t tell from the distance but it looks like the stitching quality is perfect.

I’m a little jealous as yours looks even better than my Himel Kensington Racer that I received recently. I love mine but also not a fan boy and can admit that another maker is phenomenal too.

Please if you can post some close up pictures of the construction quality/stitching and some pictures showing the back while zipped up and unzipped, a front picture unzipped would be great too.

 

[Jasonindenver]

I think that looks good as well. I know a great many members here prefer shorter body lengths on the cafe or board racer styles; however, I feel yours is the perfect length for daily wear. The chest looks spot on, but the main questions is how it feels?

 

[JMax]

Perfect J100 fit imo. That brown LW HH breaks in beautifully. Sleeves will be perfect with wear. Home run.

 

[red devil]

Speccing custom numbers for a jacket with an experienced maker is like taking public transport and telling the driver how to do his job.

5* is unique in the sense that they put you in the driver seat and let you crash if you are not exoperienced enough.

 

[MrProper]

Speccing custom numbers for a jacket with an experienced maker is like taking public transport and telling the driver how to do his job.

A nice comparison, which I would agree with if the manufacturers were produce pretty much exclusively bull's-eyes. I also think that the probability of a bull's eye is also quite high for a standard figure.
If you, like me for example, deviate from this standard figure or have special ideas about fit, then it becomes more difficult. And I think that the knowledge about the measurements helps immensely. At least for an initial assessment.

A manufacturer I trust discusses and explains with me at eye level. If he has the attitude that the customer has no idea anyway and has to take it as he sees fit, then that may be okay for many, but not for me.

5* I see more as a cab driver who can drive well, but does not know the optimal way and is therefore dependent on instructions.

 

[navetsea]

it is a nice fit from neck and shoulder slope and down to waist, I like somewhat hourglass waist, but not to much flare out like that hem when fully zipped, because it will flare even more when worn unzipped

 

[Marc mndt]

A manufacturer I trust discusses and explains with me at eye level. If he has the attitude that the customer has no idea anyway and has to take it as he sees fit, then that may be okay for many, but not for me.

My first ever custom order was a Thedi. My knowledge about sizing and dimensions but also about style (how should a jacket fit accordingly to its style) was very limited.

All I did was give Theodoros my body measurements and preferred body length and he took care of the rest.

When I got the jacket it was a perfect fit but I wasn't totally happy with the wide opening:

if I had to name one thing I would change about this jacket, it would be the bottom width. It flares just a little bit and I would have liked the jacket even more if it were one and a half inches narrower at the bottom.

Today, a couple of hundred jackets later, this Thedi is still one of my favorite jackets and I actually became to appreciate the flared opening. I now know that the hourglass shape goes really well with the style, an aviator jacket.

If Theodoros would have discussed actual jacket measurements with me at that time, I'm sure it wouldn't have come out the way it did. I probably would have specd it like it were a mc jacket because I didn't understand the differences between a mc jacket and an aviator jacket back then.

Long story short, sometimes it's best to let the maker decide on measurements. Not every maker is up to that task though. It's important to distinguish between those makers who are and those who are not. When ordering a FL I tell them jacket measurements. I'm not saying FL is unable to deliver a great fitting jacket solely based on body measurements, it's just that I personally think doing so would be too much of a gamble.

Aviator dimensions vs mc jacket dimensions, hourglass vs V shaped.

 

[navetsea]

I like hourglass too, but sans the hip flare when fully done, since it will flare more when worn undone until the leather on the rear panel get broken in and absorb the flare by vertical draping somewhat, which would happen soonish if we would wear sheepskin or soft nappa leather like mall option out there,but with the kind of leather we went with it will take sometime. On my grey jacket it is somewhat get broken in enough to not flaring out too much when worn un zipped, on my brown since i wanted cord filled piping along the edges I think it is impossible to happen and flaring out when worn un buttoned.

 

[Brandrea33]

The jacket looks absolutely brilliant OP.

How does it feel when you’re wearing it?

 

[Tom71]

Looks great. Perfect fit, as far as the eye can tell.

FYI: I never re-measured any jacket upon receipt IF they did fit. Numbers only tell you so much; the "feel" is the crucial factor.

 

[willyto]

Looks great. Perfect fit, as far as the eye can tell.

FYI: I never re-measured any jacket upon receipt IF they did fit. Numbers only tell you so much; the "feel" is the crucial factor.

That's because what Carlos said is just true but many people ignore it. A pit to pit measurement doesn't really say a jacket's size and obsessing over it makes no sense because it depends on that jacket pattern or style. Expecting a MC jacket or a half belt or a cossack jacket to fit the same and have the same measurements is a recipe for disaster I think.

I've never really asked for specific measurements.
My first order was just specified as "size 42 with the length of a 44 and a 20.5" bottom hem"
Everything else was left to Stuart.

The jackets that followed where the same length and bottom hem, but other measurements have changed depending on the model.

A LT/A for example has a wider chest measurement than a J-23 at same tag size.

I think Stu doesn't like to give measurements because different jackets are built around different chest ease numbers.
The fact that you have a 42" chest for exmaple doesn't mean that every jacket model you wear should have a 22" pit to pit.

 

[red devil]

@MrProper , public transport does not always go exactly where you want, you do need to walk the last part

Not every maker is up to that task though

And that is the issue!

The reason I have no FL is because they could not get my fit right.

 

[vntg60s]

Looks great! How is the mobility?

Thanks! It was a little stiff at first but initial mobility was good. Stuart recommends you go 1 size up in this style because the pattern is slim. I probably could have gone with my usual jacket size but it wouldn’t have been as comfortable and wouldn’t have allowed me to comfortably layer.

 

[vntg60s]

The jacket looks absolutely brilliant OP.

How does it feel when you’re wearing it?

Thanks! It was a little stiff at first but initial mobility was good. Stuart recommends you go 1 size up in this style because the pattern is slim. I probably could have gone with my usual jacket size but it wouldn’t have been as comfortable and wouldn’t have allowed me to comfortably layer