Leather jacket custom ordering

[vntg60s]

I recently received my LW’s J100, custom order. After wearing it a while, I measured the chest and hem to see if it matched up to what was specified in my order. I was surprised to see that the chest was ~0.75” short of expectation, and the hem was ~1” wider then expectation.

It’s my first custom leather jacket. The measurements work. I love it.

But I paid a lot for this. I expected the measurements to be exact. For those of you who order custom leather, is this normal to have this amount of play, wider or shorter, when custom ordering leather jackets?

 

[MrProper]

I recently received my LW’s J100, custom order. After wearing it a while, I measured the chest and hem to see if it matched up to what was specified in my order. I was surprised to see that the chest was ~0.75” short of expectation, and the hem was ~1” wider then expectation.

It’s my first custom leather jacket. The measurements work. I love it.

But I paid a lot for this. I expected the measurements to be exact. For those of you who order custom leather, is this normal to have this amount of play, wider or shorter, when custom ordering leather jackets?

Aero reserves a 0.5" variance to dimensions.
Lewis Leathers may also have minor deviations.
5* normally keeps the dimensions exactly.

 

[handymike]

I thought Stu didn’t go off “measurements”
Are you glad he deviated? If he gave you what you asked for, would it fit better or worse?

 

[AeroFan_07]

Not sure about Lost Worlds' tolerance specifications for custom ordering. I knew Aero is ~ +/- 0.5"

When I ordered a LW J23 from Stuart back in 2016 (over the phone) he was quite curtious, and was less concered with measurements from other jackets, but quite curious about both measurments from me and what I wanted as far as a fit.

So even though the measurments are off a little from what you expoected, how does your new jacket fit you? Certainly post some photos if possible.

 

[Guppy]

I recently received my LW’s J100, custom order. After wearing it a while, I measured the chest and hem to see if it matched up to what was specified in my order. I was surprised to see that the chest was ~0.75” short of expectation, and the hem was ~1” wider then expectation.

It’s my first custom leather jacket. The measurements work. I love it.

But I paid a lot for this. I expected the measurements to be exact. For those of you who order custom leather, is this normal to have this amount of play, wider or shorter, when custom ordering leather jackets?

It's pretty normal.

Be glad it fits you well. That's the bottom line, after all.

There are reasons the measurements don't hit spec exactly. Makers typically have a margin of error that they allow themselves.

Although you can measure and cut a piece of letter to pretty exacting tolerances, when you sew something together, the folding of the leather at the seams will cause the initial measurements to drift as the jacket comes together. This is not easily accounted for or controllable. Some pieces of leather will be thicker than others, and have more of a bend radius, consuming more of its initial length when the piece is assembled.

Leather can also stretch, relax, etc. with changing conditions. Temperature (can affect flexibility of the leather; thermal expansion should be minimal enough to be negligible), the process of breaking in, etc. can all affect measurements. Initial measurements don't matter a whole lot -- what matters more is the measurements that you get after the jacket is broken in, well past the time you can expect a maker to accept a return. If the measurements are grossly off from the get-go, that's one thing. But if they're close to the mark, seeing what develops as the leather breaks in is the common practice.

As well, methods of measurement will vary. And imprecision is expected when this is done. You can lay out a finished jacket and try to get a tape to line up from point A to point B, and while that sounds simple, in reality the garment is flexible and will not lie exactly flat exactly the same way every time it is measured, and this will give rise to some variance in the reading. On top of that, the measurer is a human who will not precisely pinpoint the exact same point A and point B every single time they measure as well.

Basically, if you're within about an inch, it's considered close enough to be considered an accurate measurement.

 

[vntg60s]

I thought Stu didn’t go off “measurements”
Are you glad he deviated? If he gave you what you asked for, would it fit better or worse?

Still don’t know the answer to that. Out of the box, the jacket was a little stiff, “ironed” if you will, to the pleasing silhouette the J100 is meant to be. Thought it felt and looked good. But with time, the leather will relax to my body configuration. Only then will I know. I’m very pleased so far.

 

[handymike]

If you are happy, then he did a good job.
Hope to see some photos!

 

[TartuWolf]

Question regarding statements like "Aero reserves a 0.5" variance to dimensions":
Does it mean 0.5" one way or the other (Total 1")?
Or 0.5" in total, meaning 0.25" one way or the other?
I can already guess the answer, but just want to make sure.

Also considering how difficult it seems to be to measure precisely / consistently, how do requests for exchanges/return usually go with manufacturers like Aero? If you say it's slightly off the margin, do they tell you to measure differently (like they did, supposedly) or accept the way you are measuring as enough proof?

 

[El Marro]

I measured the chest and hem to see if it matched up to what was specified in my order. I was surprised to see that the chest was ~0.75” short of expectation, and the hem was ~1” wider then expectation.

I’m very surprised to hear that Stu specified measurements for your jacket. When I placed both of my custom orders with him, he would not even tell me the chest measurements verbally, let alone write them down as specifications.

 

[vntg60s]

I’m very surprised to hear that Stu specified measurements for your jacket. When I placed both of my custom orders with him, he would not even tell me the chest measurements verbally, let alone write them down as specifications.

Interesting you say that. I get the same sense that he doesn’t want to talk about them. @Carlos840 has ordered a few from him. Curious to know his experiences.

 

[vntg60s]

If you are happy, then he did a good job.
Hope to see some photos!

I welcome any helpful comments. Thanks

 

[handymike]

Looks great from here!
Congratulations.

 

[Carlos840]

Interesting you say that. I get the same sense that he doesn’t want to talk about them. @Carlos840 has ordered a few from him. Curious to know his experiences.

I've never really asked for specific measurements.
My first order was just specified as "size 42 with the length of a 44 and a 20.5" bottom hem"
Everything else was left to Stuart.

The jackets that followed where the same length and bottom hem, but other measurements have changed depending on the model.

A LT/A for example has a wider chest measurement than a J-23 at same tag size.

I think Stu doesn't like to give measurements because different jackets are built around different chest ease numbers.
The fact that you have a 42" chest for exmaple doesn't mean that every jacket model you wear should have a 22" pit to pit.

 

[ObiJuanValdez]

That fit looks great to my, admittedly, less experienced eyes.

 

[Bfd70]

Looks great. Put #s out of your head.

 

[vntg60s]

That fit looks great to my, admittedly, less experienced eyes.

I’m certainly not experienced either, my first custom leather. But thank you!

 

[AeroFan_07]

Looks great. Put #s out of your head.

This. Exactly. Wear it and forget about the measurements.

 

[newtojackets]

Aero reserves a 0.5" variance to dimensions.
Lewis Leathers may also have minor deviations.
5* normally keeps the dimensions exactly.

Why are 5* more precise? Is it that Aero deviate from measurements to make things fit better or are 5* just more accurate when cutting?

 

[MrProper]

Does it mean 0.5" one way or the other

As I understand it, yes.
I.e. If I want 19", then in the worst case it could become 19.5 or 18.5.

Why are 5* more precise? Is it that Aero deviate from measurements to make things fit better or are 5* just more accurate when cutting?

I don't know. Maybe because they work with softer, thinner leather? Or making the jackets less complex? Or skive the edges?

 

[Canuck Panda]

I welcome any helpful comments. Thanks

It looks great!

Worn jackets are harder to measure as they become more three dimensional. The only way to do it is measure inch by inch with a soft tape. Don't sweat over the numbers. Pic shows great jacket. Enjoy!