Learning how to tailor?

[Geesie]

You're a demystifier, then.

FLers with some time onboard will know I'm kind of a nut on the topic of trade and craft. I apologize for being a bit tiresome, but it IS an elephant in the room, and if nothing else, we ought to pull the tablecloths off it and see how white it is.

Just because we relish tradition need not mean we hold all of it above question. Especially when a tradition shows signs of extinguishing itself: do we let it?

Well it recently occurred to me that I can fix my own car and cook my own food, so why am I paying someone $40 for a sweatshop-made shirt that doesn't even fit me because I'm not standard-issue American dimensions?

So I got a vintage Singer, raided my parents for books and supplies, and started taking a course on basic sewing at the community college. By this time next year I hope to be wearing my own shirts and at least altering my pants to fit properly.

 

[avedwards]

Just a question along similar lines: how easy is it to make a waistcoat? I believe that Charlie Huang here makes his own to turn two piece suits into three piece suits by buying an extra pair of trousers and using the material. How easy would it be if one had the correct materials to make one?

 

[Creeping Past]

There's no straight answer to that one, AV. If you want to, I guess it'll be a little easier...if you've got the eye and some patience. You won't know till you try.

 

[avedwards]

I just thought it might be slightly easire than making a suit jacket as the construction of a waistcoat appears to be a lot simpler. Plus I only have one waistcoat which is part of a three piece suit, so I thought a few more would be nice. I'm fine with a self faced back too, so I suppose all I'm waiting for is to get some material. However I am very inexperienced at sewing. Re-attatching buttons and clumsily making trouser waists narrow (relying on my belt to cover the stitching) is the limit of my skill.

 

[Lauren]

Mind if I pop in on this, too?
I've been sewing most of my life, and I second that dressmaking or sewing and tailoring are two completely different skills. I had wanted to learn tailoring for years and years, and finally last year got to work under the head tailor at my seasonal employer. It was really challenging. So challenging at times I was near to tears. It's definitely something you must learn hands on and under the eye of someone who knows their art. There are, of course, different methods and each tailor has his/her secrets as mentioned previously, but it's really best to get under someone who can help you learn the basics and the importance of good materials and correct pressing and shaping. I found that it's nearly impossible to do tailoring flat- you have to have a form and all sorts of pressing devices or else your suit simply won't hang correctly. Now, don't get me wrong, I was only under her for about 6-7 months, so even though I was doing it for 40 hours a week I still consider myself a novice. It's something you could take years to learn, but I'm going to say if you're really interested get on it FAST as the old way of tailoring is fast disappearing- and people who are willing to pass on their trade are even farther between.
For a book I recommend this one. I have the ladies version and it is quite remarkable- next best thing to being taught one on one. I have seen the Singer book and it's... ok... but it doesn't go as in depth as you will need if you are seriously considering taking it to a more advanced level.

 

[Lokar]

To quote an employee at Dege & Skinner (Savile Row):

These skills have been passed down from generations to generations and usually take up to 5 years to reach a decent level where they can then start practising as tailors and cutters. However there have been cases like the current MD's grandfather who picked up a set of tailoring manuals and taught himself how to cut and became one of West-End's finest cutters. So hope is always there.

I first of all suggest the Thornton system of cutting as a good reference to begin. Follow instructions and start possibly making garments for families and friends. I do believe that it is wise to not be overly ambitious. So start with simple things like making an apron, then a trouser, then a waistcoat then a coat, an overcoat and so on and so forth.

It all seems to depend on what you want to do generally, though. If you want to make shirts or trousers for yourself, you can absolutely learn how to. If you want to set up a bespoke tailoring business, then training is almost a complete necessity.

It also depends on the quality you require. If you want to make an Anderson & Sheppard quality suit with all the perfect fine details, you need to be shown how to do them. If you're quite happy having a suit the same quality (but a better fit) as a cheap off-the-rack suit, then there's less problems.

 

[Fletch]

It's something you could take years to learn, but I'm going to say if you're really interested get on it FAST as the old way of tailoring is fast disappearing- and people who are willing to pass on their trade are even farther between.

This is a crucial point to what I said earlier - the craft is not just about to go extinct, but about to extinguish itself.

As we've seen previously with the hatter's trade, conditions are now such that many of those with the knowledge don't want it passed on. Either it's a threat to their livelihood, or they mistrust people's desire to learn, or in many cases, they're just too damn old.

What do you do to keep something alive under such conditions - never mind making it grow?

If you want to make an Anderson & Sheppard quality suit with all the perfect fine details, you need to be shown how to do them. If you're quite happy having a suit the same quality (but a better fit) as a cheap off-the-rack suit, then there's less problems.

Are we talking OTR to high-armhole 1940s standards, or to cardboard-lapel 2010 standards?

 

[Lauren]

Cardboard lapel? Those two words should have nothing in common.

 

[Orgetorix]

If 10 year old Burmese workers can make Ralph Lauren shirts and suits, I'm sure that jcw122 can learn to make his own suits from patterns.

Those 10 year old Burmese workers are running computerized machinery that costs tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars and does in seconds what a human takes minutes or hours to do.

 

[Tomasso]

correct pressing and shaping. I found that it's nearly impossible to do tailoring flat- you have to have a form and all sorts of pressing devices or else your suit simply won't hang correctly.

Yep!..... Dilettante beware.