Johnson Leather M-200 Jacket

[jacketjunkie]

I believe the main reason is fashion, it's not just the pants which changed over the past 50 years.

Regarding pocket lining; leather is more durable, however not very warm. I'd go with something like moleskin if available.

Regarding front length; there are jackets which are longer in the front, just as well as there are jackets which are longer in the back. For the first style, the Aero Dustbowl comes in my mind, for the second style, most biking jackets.

I wear my M200 in standard length, but it is a size 42 which is probably designed for someone 6' tall while I am only 5'9", so it does cover my belt and that it should, imho.

 

[avsmusic1]

Thanks for posting photos of your jacket Technovox. It is beautiful.

So, I just got back from a visit to Johnson Leathers. I spent 2 full hours speaking with Alan, who is incredibly knowledgable and wise. I ordered an M-100 in a size 40, adding 1.5 inches to the sleeve and 2 inches to the body length.

Question: Do the front and the back of the jacket have to be the same length? Because the jacket I tried on in the shop seems to fit in the back. However, in the front, it seems a couple inches short. My belt shows and I don't like that. Is it possible to just lengthen the front, and not lengthen the back? Are there jackets that have a longer front than back?

Another question: The hand warmer pockets are lined with leather, but should I go with canvas instead? Is there an advantage to go with one over the other?

I went with the 3.5oz black naked cowhide, which is very nice and soft. Alan was a pleasure to work with and I'm looking forward to wearing my jacket by the end of October!

I don't believe Alan has moleskin but I know you can opt for black corduroy to line the pockets if you'd like.

What's the difference between the M100 and M200?

 

[technovox]

Another question: The hand warmer pockets are lined with leather, but should I go with canvas instead? Is there an advantage to go with one over the other?

Leather pockets will probably last a couple of lifetimes. But personally, I prefer the corduroy lined pockets. I find leather pockets too stiff and just add unnecessary weight to the jacket. And the corduroy pockets are very comfortable.

 

[tropicalbob]

I do want to add that the problem is not the jacket length, but how we wear our pants these days. In the old days, men wore their pants really high up and it looked a lot classier. So you could wear a short leather jacket and it wouldn't look odd. But with these modern low rise pants, the belt is too far down to wear a classic old jacket. I wonder what it was that caused the rise of the pants to become shorter and shorter. There must be an anthropological reason for this.

I'd suppose it had to do with the rise of the youth culture of the 1960's. Around 1967 or so came the 'hip-huggers," which I think were modeled after the Capri pants of a few years before. Originally, the lower-waisted pants were only for women, but soon the jeans-makers were lowering the rises of their products, and soon that became the norm. I'm speaking here from memory, but perhaps someone such as Dinerman might have the real scoop.

 

[jon11]

Looking forward to seeing your jacket from Johnson Leather and fit pictures, you wont regret it, fantastic maker.

 

[feltfan]

Decided against chromexel HH? Looking forward to seeing it.


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[Seb Lucas]

I do want to add that the problem is not the jacket length, but how we wear our pants these days. In the old days, men wore their pants really high up and it looked a lot classier. So you could wear a short leather jacket and it wouldn't look odd. But with these modern low rise pants, the belt is too far down to wear a classic old jacket. I wonder what it was that caused the rise of the pants to become shorter and shorter. There must be an anthropological reason for this.

I'm sure that this has been mentioned a lot here. I think it's true but I personally really don't like the look of high rise trousers or jeans. They look dreadfully geeky to my eye. And low rise looks deadfull too. I think mid-rise looks perfectly reasonable and requires a decent length jacket. I think changing taste is as good an explanation as anything. To me high rise or flares are both simply too much fabric in a pair of pants.

 

[thor]

I'm sure that this has been mentioned a lot on here. I think it's true but I really don't like the look of high rise trousers or jeans. They look dreadfully geeky to my eye. And low rise looks deadfall too. I think mid-rise looks perfectly reasonable and requires a decent length jacket.

+1

 

[avsmusic1]

Decided against chromexel HH? Looking forward to seeing it.


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I don't think Alan has any CXL HH - just veg tanned

 

[kronos77]

I always thought the high rise pants were normal only because a vest was worn to cover up the "geeky" look. I agree, on most people, high rise pants look silly, as do low rise.

 

[VictorShadow]

Alan doesn't have CXL HH

 

[jon11]

What is the time frame for your new Leather jacket from Alan?

 

[avsmusic1]

6-8wks for me

 

[Peacoat]

Leather pockets will probably last a couple of lifetimes. But personally, I prefer the corduroy lined pockets. I find leather pockets too stiff and just add unnecessary weight to the jacket. And the corduroy pockets are very comfortable.

The black corduroy would look the business, plus it is much warmer and more comfortable than the leather. For once, an easy decision.

 

[feltfan]

Alan doesn't have CXL HH

Ah. He has before, guess he can't get ahold of it now.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?74053-New-Johnson-Leathers-M-200-J-in-Horween-Chromexcel

I think Technovox's jacket is a CXL/veg tan combo? Did you manage to check that out?

 

[avsmusic1]

Ah. He has before, guess he can't get ahold of it now.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?74053-New-Johnson-Leathers-M-200-J-in-Horween-Chromexcel

I think Technovox's jacket is a CXL/veg tan combo? Did you manage to check that out?

I think that's steer. Alan has a few CXL options in cow, but nothing in HH. The overdye cxl they used to have is no longer available either unfortunately. I think it was a fan favorite

 

[Seb Lucas]

Leather pockets will probably last a couple of lifetimes. But personally, I prefer the corduroy lined pockets. I find leather pockets too stiff and just add unnecessary weight to the jacket. And the corduroy pockets are very comfortable.

I like leather pockets - the best thing is they don't develop holes or tear no matter wht you put in them. Alan uses a softer leatehr for the pockets but the pockets still require some break in time.

 

[technovox]

I think Technovox's jacket is a CXL/veg tan combo? Did you manage to check that out?

Yes, the Horween Vermont Horsehide used on my jacket was a veg/cxl combo. I've learned it's always good to check back frequently with Alan as to what kind of leather he has gotten in ... it changes often, usually in limited quantities. The last time I was over there, he showed me some Italian Horsehide he had recently sourced. And I recall seeing some Kangaroo and even super thick Bison over there as well. And then there's the overdyed black Horween cowhide that is consistently a favorite.

 

[tblay]

I like leather pockets - the best thing is they don't develop holes or tear no matter wht you put in them. Alan uses a softer leatehr for the pockets but the pockets still require some break in time.

+1 on leather-lined pockets. I find them no chillier than moleskin-lined pockets. And, as others have said, they are incredibly durable and feel really luxurious (to me, anyway).

 

[avsmusic1]

I'm a little confused. Isn't CXL a combo tan? (I.e. Chrome tanned and veg re-tanned)

Was the Vermont espresso veg tanned again in addition to the CXL treatments or do I have the CXL process mistaken?