Johnson Leather Jacket

[jacketjunkie]

What size and what is your height? Looks great.

I am 1.78m tall, currently 82kg, this is a size medium.

 

[Observe]

I am 1.78m tall, currently 82kg, this is a size medium.

I'm on a bit of a leather jacket hiatus right now but I'm thinking my next one will be a JL. Want something reasonably priced with a good pattern and a classic versatile look. I'd probably go for the style you have here in a larger size. I'm 6'4 200lb so I'd probably need a L or maybe even XL?

 

[Squirrel_hero]

Fit pictures. I got lucky as it was nice and bright in SF so I just had to take photos

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Nice jacket

 

[jacketjunkie]

I'm on a bit of a leather jacket hiatus right now but I'm thinking my next one will be a JL. Want something reasonably priced with a good pattern and a classic versatile look. I'd probably go for the style you have here in a larger size. I'm 6'4 200lb so I'd probably need a L or maybe even XL?

You won't regret it, they do great work and no need for fancy, their basic patterns are great and their basic leathers are well-selected, the 3 oz naked cowhide has an awesome hand to it. At 6'4 I'm assuming a XL and possibly an extra inch in the sleeves? Just mail them though, they are very transparent about sizing, no guess work needed, they can give you exact measurements on their sizes which you can compare to jackets of yours.

 

[TheDonEffect]

I'll weigh in regarding on this. I think alot gets lost in discussions about custom, aka bespoke, vs altered/made to measure. Alot of brands that will take your measurements, are made to measure, and people perceive this to be that you're getting a one off jacket, when really you're just getting a stock jacket with alterations, similar to receiving said jacket, and then taking it in to get altered. Aero for instance does it this way, you send them your measurements, they'll then see which stock size is closest, and then make minor adjustments. The reason being is that if you return it, they can then resell it. Aero for instance does not do one off custom sizing, and they're transparent about this on their website. I believe this is why sometimes the fit or functionality can be so misleading.

5* for instance will actually do full custom, mostly because back then they were still developing their templates. As many have experienced with 5* for instance, simply providing your measurements and receiving a jacket that fits and performs how you envisioned are often separate tasks. There is a decent amount of geometry/engineering that goes into that impacts how a jacket performs. They now mostly make great correctly loose fitting military repros.

I will also note that those who seem to get great results with custom sizing are those who have countless jackets and experience in this space, they know every nuanced thing about their sizing and geometry that they can generally get it right, and even then it's never absolutely perfect. Ironically, alot of those folks' best fitting jackets were ones they found "off the rack".

JL offers both. Find me a maker that offers what JL offers for less money and I'll be there. They don't exist, especially when you factor JL's commitment to your happiness. You'd be amazed how much leather choice accounts for the equation. Even with 5* charging essentially $40 for labor, by the time you source and send them CXL/Shinki/etc, deal with all the shipping, and assuming all the risk, the price difference was almost negligible.

 

[Aloysius]

Nothing to add but "spot on!"

 

[X83]

I'll weigh in regarding on this. I think alot gets lost in discussions about custom, aka bespoke, vs altered/made to measure. Alot of brands that will take your measurements, are made to measure, and people perceive this to be that you're getting a one off jacket, when really you're just getting a stock jacket with alterations, similar to receiving said jacket, and then taking it in to get altered. Aero for instance does it this way, you send them your measurements, they'll then see which stock size is closest, and then make minor adjustments. The reason being is that if you return it, they can then resell it. Aero for instance does not do one off custom sizing, and they're transparent about this on their website. I believe this is why sometimes the fit or functionality can be so misleading.

5* for instance will actually do full custom, mostly because back then they were still developing their templates. As many have experienced with 5* for instance, simply providing your measurements and receiving a jacket that fits and performs how you envisioned are often separate tasks. There is a decent amount of geometry/engineering that goes into that impacts how a jacket performs. They now mostly make great correctly loose fitting military repros.

I will also note that those who seem to get great results with custom sizing are those who have countless jackets and experience in this space, they know every nuanced thing about their sizing and geometry that they can generally get it right, and even then it's never absolutely perfect. Ironically, alot of those folks' best fitting jackets were ones they found "off the rack".

JL offers both. Find me a maker that offers what JL offers for less money and I'll be there. They don't exist, especially when you factor JL's commitment to your happiness. You'd be amazed how much leather choice accounts for the equation. Even with 5* charging essentially $40 for labor, by the time you source and send them CXL/Shinki/etc, deal with all the shipping, and assuming all the risk, the price difference was almost negligible.

Amen

 

[TheDonEffect]

With all of that said, having done essentially a custom order and modified off the rack orders, I learned I'm happier when I just find a stock model that works for me, and then doing just finishing touches on it (sleeve length, and overall length), and even then sometimes I think I should've just stuck with the off the rack specs. Reason being is that alot of experience goes into the stock patterns, especially the functional jackets like the CHP/actual riding jackets. You need space, and a leather that has some freedom of movement.

I think we all fall in love with the IG posts of dudes just standing there with a perfectly fitted jacket. I wish people would post pictures of them swinging a sledgehammer or riding a bike, you know, using these garments as they were designed originally (and ultimately why they're cool, no one aspires to dress like a cubicle dweller after all), because then we could see how a 3oz veg tanned horsehide in a tailored bordering skinny fit jacket will look. We get caught up with chest folds near the underarms, then when they're perfectly flat complain that we can't raise our arms. Not everyone is built the same, how a jacket drapes and functions on a size 38 person will be different on a size 46.

That said, nothing like the smell of Horween or Shinki in your closet, lol.

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

no one aspires to dress like a cubicle dweller after all

I think you need to stop making assumptions about what happens in office cubicles... things can get exciting now and then

 

[MrProper]

I wish people would post pictures of them swinging a sledgehammer or riding a bike,

I would love to. Unfortunately, I don't have a sledge hammer and my motorbike isn't roadworthy. LOL

 

[El Marro]

I would love to. Unfortunately, I don't have a sledge hammer and my motorbike isn't roadworthy. LOL

I’ve got two sledgehammers with me in my van but unfortunately I’m wearing my IH N-1 today. Maybe tomorrow.

 

[TheDonEffect]

I would love to. Unfortunately, I don't have a sledge hammer and my motorbike isn't roadworthy. LOL

Lol, there's no need for you, we already know you'll look good doing it.

 

[TheDonEffect]

I think you need to stop making assumptions about what happens in office cubicles... things can get exciting now and then

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Lol so awesome.

 

[Rugby]

With all of that said, having done essentially a custom order and modified off the rack orders, I learned I'm happier when I just find a stock model that works for me, and then doing just finishing touches on it (sleeve length, and overall length), and even then sometimes I think I should've just stuck with the off the rack specs. Reason being is that alot of experience goes into the stock patterns, especially the functional jackets like the CHP/actual riding jackets. You need space, and a leather that has some freedom of movement.

I think we all fall in love with the IG posts of dudes just standing there with a perfectly fitted jacket. I wish people would post pictures of them swinging a sledgehammer or riding a bike, you know, using these garments as they were designed originally (and ultimately why they're cool, no one aspires to dress like a cubicle dweller after all), because then we could see how a 3oz veg tanned horsehide in a tailored bordering skinny fit jacket will look. We get caught up with chest folds near the underarms, then when they're perfectly flat complain that we can't raise our arms. Not everyone is built the same, how a jacket drapes and functions on a size 38 person will be different on a size 46.

That said, nothing like the smell of Horween or Shinki in your closet, lol.

As a person who can almost never find a jacket off the rack that would fit even approximately well, I have to order made to measure. Most of the times is a variation of existing pattern/design, with primary concern, functionality as I ride motorcycles and actually want to be able to move my arms around without restrictions and of course layer up when needed. And as a cubicle dweller I don't swing sledgehammers, although quite a few times I would've love to...

 

[Aloysius]

As a person who can almost never find a jacket off the rack that would fit even approximately well, I have to order made to measure. Most of the times is a variation of existing pattern/design, with primary concern, functionality as I ride motorcycles and actually want to be able to move my arms around without restrictions and of course layer up when needed. And as a cubicle dweller I don't swing sledgehammers, although quite a few times I would've love to...

The finishing touches that Don is talking about = made to measure.

Making a pattern for the customer/product = bespoke/custom.

Either way Johnson will get you what you need.

 

[TheDonEffect]

As a person who can almost never find a jacket off the rack that would fit even approximately well, I have to order made to measure. Most of the times is a variation of existing pattern/design, with primary concern, functionality as I ride motorcycles and actually want to be able to move my arms around without restrictions and of course layer up when needed. And as a cubicle dweller I don't swing sledgehammers, although quite a few times I would've love to...

Same here for the most part, it's pretty impossible for me to get the right fit. The suits I have are all custom tailored now because I rarely can find anything off the rack that fits remotely well, or doesn't make me look like a 90s wall street guy.

I pretty order made to measure as well, but it's pretty much a stock design with a few adjustments. Frankly, unless you're creating a truly original design, that's how all the makers do it unless your alterations really start impacting the functionality of the jacket, in which case you could see the price jump a bit more.

I think this is where JL does a great job, they could easily just make your jacket with a provided set of measurements without thinking twice if it'll work. They could simply say see, all the specs you speced are here via tape measure, but never mind the arm hole wasn't adjusted, the arm opening, the angle of the sleeve to the body, etc, and when working with heavier, stiffer ides, these factors become more important.

Anyway, back to my cube, lol.

 

[Rugby]

Same here for the most part, it's pretty impossible for me to get the right fit. The suits I have are all custom tailored now because I rarely can find anything off the rack that fits remotely well, or doesn't make me look like a 90s wall street guy.

I pretty order made to measure as well, but it's pretty much a stock design with a few adjustments. Frankly, unless you're creating a truly original design, that's how all the makers do it unless your alterations really start impacting the functionality of the jacket, in which case you could see the price jump a bit more.

I think this is where JL does a great job, they could easily just make your jacket with a provided set of measurements without thinking twice if it'll work. They could simply say see, all the specs you speced are here via tape measure, but never mind the arm hole wasn't adjusted, the arm opening, the angle of the sleeve to the body, etc, and when working with heavier, stiffer ides, these factors become more important.

Anyway, back to my cube, lol.

Yup, JL have been absolutely on the dot for me and what I wanted them to make for me. And they're the only ones, that I know of, to provide mock jacket for fitting. Over all great service and construction for a price that is very reasonable compared, say, to Himmel or Lost Worlds or any Japanese maker

 

[Helix]

Yup, JL have been absolutely on the dot for me and what I wanted them to make for me. And they're the only ones, that I know of, to provide mock jacket for fitting. Over all great service and construction for a price that is very reasonable compared, say, to Himmel or Lost Worlds or any Japanese maker

Field Leathers also provides a fabric mock up to confirm or tweak the measurements before construction of the actual jacket.

+1 on all the JL comments. Great guys to work with and all the patterns I've tried are very comfortable to wear (for me).

 

[red devil]

Field Leathers also provides a fabric mock up to confirm or tweak the measurements before construction of the actual jacket.

+1 on all the JL comments. Great guys to work with and all the patterns I've tried are very comfortable to wear (for me).

Providing a mock-up does not necessarily make it bespoke, and even if that is the intent, you have to take into account the skills of the person developing your pattern.

Field leather was not able to work out a decent fit for me back then and gave up. I don't even have a weird body shape. Other makers never had that problem whether making a full pattern, adjusting a pattern or recommending a stock size.

Speaking of JL. they hit bullseye every single time so far.

 

[Viking752]

Johnson M-200 “Fine Cowhide” approaches the coveted Scrotum status.