Johnson Leather Jacket

[TheDonEffect]

Sorry for the late reply, yes that appears to be mine, been needing to pick it up but I've been out of town. Yes, it's with the shinki batch as well.

 

[TheDonEffect]

The eagle has landed.

Apologies for the delays, this jacket was ready like three weeks ago, but I was out of town. Anyway, finally had some time today to pick it up. I believe it's the first one done from the Canuck Panda Shinki batch.

First off, big thanks again to Canuck Panda for making this happen, and JL of course, the jacket and hide are amazing.

The jacket is a customized straight zip off of their existing pattern. Back design is a simple kidney panel with an exaggerated drop with gusseted shoulders, that's it. Fit is a more relaxed fit vs a Fedora Lounge painted on fit as I wanted something comfy to wear with hopefully room for layering without looking bulky, and as usual JL nailed it. What else can I say, they know how to make a jacket and this came out exceptionally well. Probably could use a nip and tuck here and there, but the fit is so functional and in person looks pretty well tailored so I'm totally satisfied with it.

Anyway, I'm sure you all want to know about the hide. It's beautiful, they didn't end up conditioning it so it's not shiny like the JDM Shinki jackets you see, but still has a nice sheen to it. Next to my CXL jacket, I'd say it's about the same but a bit more matte and not as inky, but it's still a very nice deep shade of black and it just fits the whole low key premium feel of this jacket.

If you like graining, you're going to love this. It's like CXL but broken in already. In the softer spots, it looks more steer than horse, but it's still absolutely horse with the tight graining that I've come to really love. If CXL is an artisanal horse saddle or shoe, then Shinki is a luxury purse.

Not all Shinki is the same though, as I stated in my prior post, it's apparent that the JDM brands apply their own secret sauce to their hides (and get pick of the litter as well), so compared to say a FCL jacket the Shinki is different. I'd say the JDM brands sand their hides further, probably dye it, and definitely apply some sort of conditioner/finisher, giving them a feel like you'd get on some high end dress shoes where it's uniform, and shiny, but also more stiff having a more rigid top crust/coat. However, this procedure accentuantes wrinkles giving the hides a more crusty appearance and spiderwebbing, sorta like broken glass which I'm sure over time wear off. In comparison, this hide is more rustic compared to the JDM brands, looks and feels more like leather, but still very refined. If you're chasing the JDM look, then I imagine a couple coats of conditioner will get you pretty much there.

Wearability... if you've tolerated CXL then this will be like lambskin in comparison. It wears like 3oz steer with just a tad more stiffness to it; I'd call it more structure than stiffness as it easily submits to your movements, but sorta wants to retain its shape. It is instantly wearable off the rack, and after wearing it home I'd be hard pressed to tell the difference regarding wearability vs my old 3oz steer aniline jacket.

Overall, strictly for the sake of comparison, appearance I'd have to give a slight, and I really mean slight to the point of negligible, edge to CXL. But wearability? It's not even close. So in totality, Shinki is definitely the way to go.

In summary, it's the unicorn I've been chasing. A horsehide with great character that feels and looks premium from a traditional sense, but still has a rustic charm to it, all while being instantly wearable while feeling robust. I prefer it to the JDM jackets because the shine and stiffness can be a bit much, plus I feel like it leaves residue on everything it touches.

I'll post more pics when I get a chance.

 

[tuanhng614]

View attachment 554851


The eagle has landed.

Apologies for the delays, this jacket was ready like three weeks ago, but I was out of town. Anyway, finally had some time today to pick it up. I believe it's the first one done from the Canuck Panda Shinki batch.

First off, big thanks again to Canuck Panda for making this happen, and JL of course, the jacket and hide are amazing.

The jacket is a customized straight zip off of their existing pattern. Back design is a simple kidney panel with an exaggerated drop with gusseted shoulders, that's it. Fit is a more relaxed fit vs a Fedora Lounge painted on fit as I wanted something comfy to wear with hopefully room for layering without looking bulky, and as usual JL nailed it. What else can I say, they know how to make a jacket and this came out exceptionally well. Probably could use a nip and tuck here and there, but the fit is so functional and in person looks pretty well tailored so I'm totally satisfied with it.

Anyway, I'm sure you all want to know about the hide. It's beautiful, they didn't end up conditioning it so it's not shiny like the JDM Shinki jackets you see, but still has a nice sheen to it. Next to my CXL jacket, I'd say it's about the same but a bit more matte and not as inky, but it's still a very nice deep shade of black and it just fits the whole low key premium feel of this jacket.

If you like graining, you're going to love this. It's like CXL but broken in already. In the softer spots, it looks more steer than horse, but it's still absolutely horse with the tight graining that I've come to really love. If CXL is an artisanal horse saddle or shoe, then Shinki is a luxury purse.

Not all Shinki is the same though, as I stated in my prior post, it's apparent that the JDM brands apply their own secret sauce to their hides (and get pick of the litter as well), so compared to say a FCL jacket the Shinki is different. I'd say the JDM brands sand their hides further, probably dye it, and definitely apply some sort of conditioner/finisher, giving them a feel like you'd get on some high end dress shoes where it's uniform, and shiny, but also more stiff having a more rigid top crust/coat. However, this procedure accentuantes wrinkles giving the hides a more crusty appearance and spiderwebbing, sorta like broken glass which I'm sure over time wear off. In comparison, this hide is more rustic compared to the JDM brands, looks and feels more like leather, but still very refined. If you're chasing the JDM look, then I imagine a couple coats of conditioner will get you pretty much there.

Wearability... if you've tolerated CXL then this will be like lambskin in comparison. It wears like 3oz steer with just a tad more stiffness to it; I'd call it more structure than stiffness as it easily submits to your movements, but sorta wants to retain its shape. It is instantly wearable off the rack, and after wearing it home I'd be hard pressed to tell the difference regarding wearability vs my old 3oz steer aniline jacket.

Overall, strictly for the sake of comparison, appearance I'd have to give a slight, and I really mean slight to the point of negligible, edge to CXL. But wearability? It's not even close. So in totality, Shinki is definitely the way to go.

In summary, it's the unicorn I've been chasing. A horsehide with great character that feels and looks premium from a traditional sense, but still has a rustic charm to it, all while being instantly wearable while feeling robust. I prefer it to the JDM jackets because the shine and stiffness can be a bit much, plus I feel like it leaves residue on everything it touches.

I'll post more pics when I get a chance.

When it comes to Shinki leather, you almost always dumped such rich information and opinion on it.

I have been looking at your jacket on JL Instagram post almost everyday, just wondering what my jacket will look like in Nov/Dec. I’ll keep on digesting your post until then

 

[TheDonEffect]

When it comes to Shinki leather, you almost always dumped such rich information and opinion on it.

I have been looking at your jacket on JL Instagram post almost everyday, just wondering what my jacket will look like in Nov/Dec. I’ll keep on digesting your post until then

Thank you. I'm sure your jacket will be amazing. When the batch of shinki arrived, I was able to check it out. True to fashion, the batch is pretty consistent for the most part, not aniline leather consistent but more consistent than cxl.

I just took a look at the jacket next to my cxl jacket and man, it's pretty much a coin flip on which one looks nicer. In the very short time I've had it, it's already broken in way further than my cxl jacket showing a ton of grain.

What style did you end up ordering?

 

[tuanhng614]

Thank you. I'm sure your jacket will be amazing. When the batch of shinki arrived, I was able to check it out. True to fashion, the batch is pretty consistent for the most part, not aniline leather consistent but more consistent than cxl.

I just took a look at the jacket next to my cxl jacket and man, it's pretty much a coin flip on which one looks nicer. In the very short time I've had it, it's already broken in way further than my cxl jacket showing a ton of grain.

What style did you end up ordering?

Damon and I started with the DEL-66 template for sizing and idea, after all the modifications that I asked for, I think that the end product will look similar to the Aero Highwayman (even though I didn’t know how the Highwayman looks prior to my order with JL haha). And that’s why I’m anxious to see what it looks like when I get to it in Nov/Dec.

I’m in SoCal and just have planned visiting Bay Are over thanksgiving holiday. That’s when I get to try on the muslin that Damon preps for my jacket. can't wait till then

 

[Canuck Panda]

View attachment 554851


The eagle has landed.

Apologies for the delays, this jacket was ready like three weeks ago, but I was out of town. Anyway, finally had some time today to pick it up. I believe it's the first one done from the Canuck Panda Shinki batch.

First off, big thanks again to Canuck Panda for making this happen, and JL of course, the jacket and hide are amazing.

The jacket is a customized straight zip off of their existing pattern. Back design is a simple kidney panel with an exaggerated drop with gusseted shoulders, that's it. Fit is a more relaxed fit vs a Fedora Lounge painted on fit as I wanted something comfy to wear with hopefully room for layering without looking bulky, and as usual JL nailed it. What else can I say, they know how to make a jacket and this came out exceptionally well. Probably could use a nip and tuck here and there, but the fit is so functional and in person looks pretty well tailored so I'm totally satisfied with it.

Anyway, I'm sure you all want to know about the hide. It's beautiful, they didn't end up conditioning it so it's not shiny like the JDM Shinki jackets you see, but still has a nice sheen to it. Next to my CXL jacket, I'd say it's about the same but a bit more matte and not as inky, but it's still a very nice deep shade of black and it just fits the whole low key premium feel of this jacket.

If you like graining, you're going to love this. It's like CXL but broken in already. In the softer spots, it looks more steer than horse, but it's still absolutely horse with the tight graining that I've come to really love. If CXL is an artisanal horse saddle or shoe, then Shinki is a luxury purse.

Not all Shinki is the same though, as I stated in my prior post, it's apparent that the JDM brands apply their own secret sauce to their hides (and get pick of the litter as well), so compared to say a FCL jacket the Shinki is different. I'd say the JDM brands sand their hides further, probably dye it, and definitely apply some sort of conditioner/finisher, giving them a feel like you'd get on some high end dress shoes where it's uniform, and shiny, but also more stiff having a more rigid top crust/coat. However, this procedure accentuantes wrinkles giving the hides a more crusty appearance and spiderwebbing, sorta like broken glass which I'm sure over time wear off. In comparison, this hide is more rustic compared to the JDM brands, looks and feels more like leather, but still very refined. If you're chasing the JDM look, then I imagine a couple coats of conditioner will get you pretty much there.

Wearability... if you've tolerated CXL then this will be like lambskin in comparison. It wears like 3oz steer with just a tad more stiffness to it; I'd call it more structure than stiffness as it easily submits to your movements, but sorta wants to retain its shape. It is instantly wearable off the rack, and after wearing it home I'd be hard pressed to tell the difference regarding wearability vs my old 3oz steer aniline jacket.

Overall, strictly for the sake of comparison, appearance I'd have to give a slight, and I really mean slight to the point of negligible, edge to CXL. But wearability? It's not even close. So in totality, Shinki is definitely the way to go.

In summary, it's the unicorn I've been chasing. A horsehide with great character that feels and looks premium from a traditional sense, but still has a rustic charm to it, all while being instantly wearable while feeling robust. I prefer it to the JDM jackets because the shine and stiffness can be a bit much, plus I feel like it leaves residue on everything it touches.

I'll post more pics when I get a chance.

Looks great!

The store is fully stocked now? Love seeing photos of racks and racks of leather jackets.

 

[TheDonEffect]

Looks great!

The store is fully stocked now? Love seeing photos of racks and racks of leather jackets.

Thanks. It didn't seem any more or less stock than usual, they usually keep it pretty full. I think slowly but surely the styles being stocked are more in demand with more variety of hides.

 

[TheDonEffect]

Here are some additional pics. Please disregard any blue/purple tones in the photos, just the light reflecting off my walls, the color of the jacket is totally black.

Another observation today, compared to CXL, CXL is more inky black, but I imagine with a little conditioner to this Shinki it will match the same tone.

It's comical how much this leather has broken in already, so much grain. I wore it while driving back, and the back length is long so it was scrunched up while driving releasing more graining. The pictures do exaggerate the graining due to the angle and lighting, in person it looks smoother, but my goodness the character.

 

[Nacho]

Just a quick question for you guys if you don’t mind.

I’ve just sent a jacket to JL for repair and alteration. Damon quoted me 3 weeks turn-around time. Is it normal for you guys if you’ve ever sent stuff there for repair? Or it depends on the season? Fall seems to be the busiest season for this type of business.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Canuck Panda]

the graining on that back panel. Wow!

I think the closest offering from Horween to the Shinki teacore would be the Vermont, but the Vermont is even softer, while the Shinki teacore still has a bit of rigid, but not as rigid as full blown CXL.

I always felt that the Shinki teacore drape is closest to 12-14oz denim, CXL is closest to 18oz plus denim, unless skived down, then it's as soft as Shinki teacore, and CXL has more luster in the finish. In many ways, I think the best of all worlds is the 2.25oz CXL FQHH, but then it does start to get a bit thin, and that's my forever ongoing internal debate between CXL and Shinki teacore.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Just a quick question for you guys if you don’t mind.

I’ve just sent a jacket to JL for repair and alteration. Damon quoted me 3 weeks turn-around time. Is it normal for you guys if you’ve ever sent stuff there for repair? Or it depends on the season? Fall seems to be the busiest season for this type of business.

Thanks in advance!

If 3 weeks turn around time you're getting special treatment.

What jacket and what kind of work are you getting done? Just curious. Zip replacements, knits replacements...etc. are quite fast. But anytime you're opening up more than three or four full length seams inside out that's totally different.

 

[Nacho]

If 3 weeks turn around time you're getting special treatment.

What jacket and what kind of work are you getting done? Just curious. Zip replacements, knits replacements...etc. are quite fast. But anytime you're opening up more than three or four full length seams inside out that's totally different.

Oh God haha. I’m thankful for that.

I need a full lining and shortening sleeves by 3 inches for one of my half-belts. I contacted Dena first but she couldn’t do it because of an extra French seam at the cuff. I don’t have pics on my phone right now.

So I gave Damon a call. He sorted everything right out. They aren’t responsive with email I find. I feel like you gotta call them to get things done.

If I recall correctly, you sent JL a jacket to get the sleeves redone right, Tom?

 

[TheDonEffect]

Yeah it seems their operations run two lines, manufacturing and alterations, so oftentimes the alteration side if much faster than the manufacturing side, which seems to be the case for you. I've had one of my jackets in for alterations and it took longer than three weeks IIRC.

 

[TheDonEffect]

the graining on that back panel. Wow!

I think the closest offering from Horween to the Shinki teacore would be the Vermont, but the Vermont is even softer, while the Shinki teacore still has a bit of rigid, but not as rigid as full blown CXL.

I always felt that the Shinki teacore drape is closest to 12-14oz denim, CXL is closest to 18oz plus denim, unless skived down, then it's as soft as Shinki teacore, and CXL has more luster in the finish. In many ways, I think the best of all worlds is the 2.25oz CXL FQHH, but then it does start to get a bit thin, and that's my forever ongoing internal debate between CXL and Shinki teacore.

Yeah CXL definitely has a bit more luster than this Shinki, but I imagine with a bit of conditioner it'll brighten it up. I'm good either way tbh as it still has good luster and doesn't have quite the same residue feeling CXL has especially when fresh.

My CXL is skived and somewhat broken in, and it definitely drapes better now but still feels like wearing construction paper, and still not as good as this shinki which will only get more comfortable. Your denim comparison is spot on, but I'd equate the CXL even Skived as an 18oz+, and a stubborn one at that.

I gotta wonder now how that Phantom black leather they offer is, because it definitely had more luster granted not teacore though.

 

[tuanhng614]

Don, when you handled their Phantom black leather at JL shop, how does it feel? And is it stiffer vs. Shinki vs. CXL?

 

[cbez]

Keep in mind you can't just talk about shinki like a monolith any more than you can say all horween is x or all cf stead is y. It's gonna vary from batch to batch even if they have certain frequent themes.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Oh God haha. I’m thankful for that.

I need a full lining and shortening sleeves by 3 inches for one of my half-belts. I contacted Dena first but she couldn’t do it because of an extra French seam at the cuff. I don’t have pics on my phone right now.

So I gave Damon a call. He sorted everything right out. They aren’t responsive with email I find. I feel like you gotta call them to get things done.

If I recall correctly, you sent JL a jacket to get the sleeves redone right, Tom?

Yup I've gotten a pair new sleeves on an older JL jacket. They did a great job. I think like Don said they have separate repair and new production queues. Calling does seem to get the fastest results. Same thing with Vanson. Here is my jacket's sleeve job.

I've used our Vancouver local alteration and Japan and JL. I would say that Japan and JL are on about the same level, better than our local leather alteration place. Shipping is more, cost is more, but end result is better. They seen more jackets and have worked on more jackets, different brands, new and vintage, and the knowledge gained from experience shows in the final work. I think you will find the finish result very satisfying. I just hit a freaking brick wall with the Japanese customs, so I might have to get in the JL repair queues after you...

 

[Nacho]

Yup I've gotten a pair new sleeves on an older JL jacket. They did a great job. I think like Don said they have separate repair and new production queues. Calling does seem to get the fastest results. Same thing with Vanson. Here is my jacket's sleeve job.
View attachment 555148
I've used our Vancouver local alteration and Japan and JL. I would say that Japan and JL are on about the same level, better than our local leather alteration place. Shipping is more, cost is more, but end result is better. They seen more jackets and have worked on more jackets, different brands, new and vintage, and the knowledge gained from experience shows in the final work. I think you will find the finish result very satisfying. I just hit a freaking brick wall with the Japanese customs, so I might have to get in the JL repair queues after you...

Thanks for the insights, Tom. This will be my first time with JL.

I used a local alteration shop in Gastown before. You probably know this place. It's right across from the old Cambie hostel. Nice little place with a lot of characters, but don't let the charm fools you. This place is a fraud.

What I wanted is to shorten the sleeves on my vintage cafe racer by moving the zipper up. The lady there seemed to know what she's talking about when I dropped it off. I asked her to make sure to maintain the same taper when she cuts the sleeves off because the cuff opening will be larger than before. I also asked her to make sure the stitching is nice and neat because that's important to me.

Paid up front for about $300 CAD. Waiting time was 10 days. What I got back is horrible. One sleeve was slightly shorter than the other. Stitching was wonky and amateur with uneven tension between topstitch and bottom stitch. The worst of all was that she didn't even taper the sleeves after the shortening, making them look weird at an angle. Mind you, this is a vintage cafe racer therefore the sleeves are baggy so you can image the weird shape they have now after the alteration.

I asked her to rectify the situation but she claimed that she was a human and she couldn't do a neat job like at the factory. Then why would you agree to take on a job like this and charge a hefty price for this amateur level of work? After more arguing, she just stood there and waited for me to leave without even trying to do anything. So that was the last time I would come back there.

In hindsight, she has a really old Singer stitcher and a small table next to it in her workshop. That should tell me to stay away. You can't achieve a professional level of work with those equipments. You need ample of space to spread the jacket out and an industrial stitcher like a Juki to sew through its many layers properly.

I have high hope that JL will deliver. I agree with you that even though we pay a little more, we can rest easy that the work will be done correctly.

Sorry for the rant. This experience still weighs heavily on me. But you live and learn.

EDIT: By the way, how much did they charge you for the new sleeves if you don't mind me asking? If it's reasonable, I might send my cafe racer to them for a complete new sleeves.

 

[DamonCyclee]

Thanks for the insights, Tom. This will be my first time with JL.

I used a local alteration shop in Gastown before. You probably know this place. It's right across from the old Cambie hostel. Nice little place with a lot of characters, but don't let the charm fools you. This place is a fraud.

What I wanted is to shorten the sleeves on my vintage cafe racer by moving the zipper up. The lady there seemed to know what she's talking about when I dropped it off. I asked her to make sure to maintain the same taper when she cuts the sleeves off because the cuff opening will be larger than before. I also asked her to make sure the stitching is nice and neat because that's important to me.

Paid up front for about $300 CAD. Waiting time was 10 days. What I got back is horrible. One sleeve was slightly shorter than the other. Stitching was wonky and amateur with uneven tension between topstitch and bottom stitch. The worst of all was that she didn't even taper the sleeves after the shortening, making them look weird at an angle. Mind you, this is a vintage cafe racer therefore the sleeves are baggy so you can image the weird shape they have now after the alteration.

I asked her to rectify the situation but she claimed that she was a human and she couldn't do a neat job like at the factory. Then why would you agree to take on a job like this and charge a hefty price for this amateur level of work? After more arguing, she just stood there and waited for me to leave without even trying to do anything. So that was the last time I would come back there.

In hindsight, she has a really old Singer stitcher and a small table next to it in her workshop. That should tell me to stay away. You can't achieve a professional level of work with those equipments. You need ample of space to spread the jacket out and an industrial stitcher like a Juki to sew through its many layers properly.

I have high hope that JL will deliver. I agree with you that even though we pay a little more, we can rest easy that the work will be done correctly.

Sorry for the rant. This experience still weighs heavily on me. But you live and learn.

One place to avoid! Can't believe they asked 300 for it. I have seen awl together leather do good work on gyw shoes resole and leather jacket alternations. Planning to take some of boots there when resole is needed.

 

[Nacho]

One place to avoid! Can't believe they asked 300 for it. I have seen awl together leather do good work on gyw shoes resole and leather jacket alternations. Planning to take some of boots there when resole is needed.

Yeah man. It's outrageous. But my loss is your gain.

Quick Cobbler is pretty good too. Have you tried them before?