Johnson Leather Jacket

[Tom71]

Great choice of jacket, Jin! Perfect fit (as always, as others have already observed ). The hide looks very nice, too.

I think it has been said elsewhere before, but for what it's worth: The term "Luftwaffe jacket" is misleading insofar as there hasn't been a designated short leather jacket for WWII fighter pilots in the Luftwaffe. Rather, some pilots (certainly some that have been photographed regularly for propaganda purposes) have adopted civilian/utilitarian jackets that were popular around that time.

Short length and trim fit certainly made those jackets suitable for in-cockpit use, but one can assume that "looks" played a role as well. Many german pilots would have felt slightly envious towards their american/british counterparts whose flight jackets have been quite iconic from the start (a lot of german officers, especially in the navy, wore "Irvin" jackets of british origin during their tours of duty.).
One wonders why german command was so lenient about the use of civilian (or even foreign army) apparel (in the field and even more in propaganda photographs.). These days, this "univil" mix-and-match doesn't sit well at all with superior NCO´s etc., that's for sure...

Before I will end this massive derail of the thread (sorry, Jin, all caused by yet another spectacular jacket of yours...), I have a question for those in the know:
I have never been able to track down the reference to a "french cyclist jacket". Could be that the overall trim fit and lightweight hide had some resemblance to cycle-race jerseys, but other than the fact that race-cycling has been and continues to be massively popular in France, I am absolutely in the dark about the term.

 

[Marc mndt]

what's the weight of the jacket without mouton collar? Probably gonna buy this leather and send it to 5star, 1/3 cost of Johnson leather.

Why this obsession with a jacket's weight? What is the benefit of having a heavy weight jacket?

 

[Hh121]

Why this obsession with a jacket's weight? What is the benefit of having a heavy weight jacket?

If you understand you understand, if you don't why bother to ask?
P.S I am not obsessed with weight, I just like thick leather and in most case the weight reflects thickness.

 

[ton312]

What a superb jacket and the fit is nailed to the ground. I think JL does their best work under a size 40” in terms of fit. The few in larger sizes that I had never even came close to that mark. Somehow the proportions just seem skewed as the jacket size goes up.

Hide looks great too. Really nice brown!

 

[Canuck Panda]

Why this obsession with a jacket's weight? What is the benefit of having a heavy weight jacket?

If you understand you understand, if you don't why bother to ask?
P.S I am not obsessed with weight, I just like thick leather and in most case the thickness reflects the weight.

Weight of the jacket can sometimes be an good indicator of the type of leather used, which can be appealing, as long as it is comfortable while worn.
And JL is actually the first one that I know mix different weights and different types of leather all together in their trucker jacket. Which gave me ideas to do some very dumb things myself...

 

[Marc mndt]

If you understand you understand, if you don't why bother to ask?
P.S I am not obsessed with weight, I just like thick leather and in most case the thickness reflects the weight.

It's a genuine question. I don't understand and that's why I'm asking.

You're quite specific in what you want. You're looking for a hwm which weights no less than 6.6 lbs for instance. What are the benefits of a 6.6 lbs jacket. How is it better than a 6.5 lbs jacket.

 

[Hh121]

It's a genuine question. I don't understand and that's why I'm asking.

You're quite specific in what you want. You're looking for a hwm which weights no less than 6.6 lbs for instance. What are the benefits of a 6.6 lbs jacket. How is it better than a 6.5 lbs jacket.

I am sorry that I couldn't give you a legit answer.....

 

[Canuck Panda]

I think he use weight to check to see how thick the leather is, and hence quality in his view. Correct me if I am wrong. I am assuming in his experience 4/5 oz leather means its 6 lbs or heavier or whatever the numbers worked out to be.
Which in my experience can be tricky because 3/4 oz leather heavily waxed can be just as heavy as 4/5 oz aniline leather, and I would prefer the aniline over waxed any day.

 

[Jin431]

Great choice of jacket, Jin! Perfect fit (as always, as others have already observed ). The hide looks very nice, too.

I think it has been said elsewhere before, but for what it's worth: The term "Luftwaffe jacket" is misleading insofar as there hasn't been a designated short leather jacket for WWII fighter pilots in the Luftwaffe. Rather, some pilots (certainly some that have been photographed regularly for propaganda purposes) have adopted civilian/utilitarian jackets that were popular around that time.

Short length and trim fit certainly made those jackets suitable for in-cockpit use, but one can assume that "looks" played a role as well. Many german pilots would have felt slightly envious towards their american/british counterparts whose flight jackets have been quite iconic from the start (a lot of german officers, especially in the navy, wore "Irvin" jackets of british origin during their tours of duty.).
One wonders why german command was so lenient about the use of civilian (or even foreign army) apparel (in the field and even more in propaganda photographs.). These days, this "univil" mix-and-match doesn't sit well at all with superior NCO´s etc., that's for sure...

Before I will end this massive derail of the thread (sorry, Jin, all caused by yet another spectacular jacket of yours...), I have a question for those in the know:
I have never been able to track down the reference to a "french cyclist jacket". Could be that the overall trim fit and lightweight hide had some resemblance to cycle-race jerseys, but other than the fact that race-cycling has been and continues to be massively popular in France, I am absolutely in the dark about the term.

Thanks @Tom71. It's definitely my kind of brown shade and my kind of fit! Can't wait to see the remake of your black badalassi with YKK zips.

I wanted to try and own a military leather jacket that suits me.
I used to like the US issued jackets myself, I tried different versions ma-1/cwu36p/cwu45p/A2 but those jackets with knits on the hem looked weird on me lol it did not look appealing at all so I looked into other military inspired leather jackets that I felt would look decent on me so it led me to this (also the black Vanek I got from @Robbie79 )

Me too I wondered if Cyclist means as the word implies (bicyclist) but I would imagine it is not comfy or practical to wear a leather jacket when doing such an activity lol

What a superb jacket and the fit is nailed to the ground. I think JL does their best work under a size 40” in terms of fit. The few in larger sizes that I had never even came close to that mark. Somehow the proportions just seem skewed as the jacket size goes up.

Hide looks great too. Really nice brown!

Thanks @ton312, as much as I like black jackets I always thought brown is more interesting. I dunno about bigger sized people but maybe I'm just lucky and have an easier proportion to make MTO jackets for

 

[ton312]

Thanks @Tom71. It's definitely my kind of brown shade and my kind of fit! Can't wait to see the remake of your black badalassi with YKK zips.

I wanted to try and own a military leather jacket that suits me.
I used to like the US issued jackets myself, I tried different versions ma-1/cwu36p/cwu45p/A2 but those jackets with knits on the hem looked weird on me lol it did not look appealing at all so I looked into other military inspired leather jackets that I felt would look decent on me so it led me to this (also the black Vanek I got from @Robbie79 )

Me too I wondered if Cyclist means as the word implies (bicyclist) but I would imagine it is not comfy or practical to wear a leather jacket when doing such an activity lol




Thanks @ton312, as much as I like black jackets I always thought brown is more interesting. I dunno about bigger sized people but maybe I'm just lucky and have an easier proportion to make MTO jackets for

Smaller sizes always seem to look and fit better. Keeping proportions across a range is tricky. Kinda like how my appropriate chest size in IH denim jackets usually places the hem at my knees.
Your SF cyclist really makes me want to give JL another shot but I think I would have to head out west and get fitted.

 

[El Marro]

Your SF cyclist really makes me want to give JL another shot but I think I would have to head out west and get fitted.

Come on out here Tony, we’d love to have you!

 

[Jin431]

Smaller sizes always seem to look and fit better. Keeping proportions across a range is tricky. Kinda like how my appropriate chest size in IH denim jackets usually places the hem at my knees.
Your SF cyclist really makes me want to give JL another shot but I think I would have to head out west and get fitted.

I can imagine what you mean there especially for folks like you who lift a lot. I love Japanese denim jackets but i also have that issue with the length lol Well I'm sure they would indulge you and help get you that ideal fit we all desire.

 

[Tom71]

Why this obsession with a jacket's weight? What is the benefit of having a heavy weight jacket?

Marc, this has resonated with me. I find it a fair question. Of course I cannot answer for others, but I have thought about my personal "obsession" with heavy leather.

I don't remember when exactly, I wanted to own a "better" leather jacket, but I do remember that I spend an idle hour in the office (during a time of immense stress...) searching for "best leather jacket" or similar. I ended up at a webpage selling Aero, Eastman and LL jackets and was immediately drawn to an Aero Cafe Racer. I was able to track down a seller of Aero´s a two hour drive away, so I went over as soon as I had the chance, ordered an Aero Board Racer in Black CXL HH and my perception of leather jackets was forever changed.
It wasn't style or craftpersonship (in terms of stitch accuracy or the like) that overwhelmed me, it was the pure feeling of sturdiness. The jacket felt basically indestructible, while looking absolutely cool, butch, badass. It was this quality that I was searching for in my next purchases (two more Aero´s in CXL HH and a SB Racer in CXL SH), and so my "obsession" began.

Fast forward a number of years, and I have been able to appreciate the relative comfort of midweight leathers while paying closer attention to detail. Also, I have developped a costly liking to Shinki, so the heavy CXL gets picked mostly when the weather is foul and the temps are moderate.

I still have it in me though, that a leather jacket as the model utility piece needs to be robust to an extent over and above the wear I am likely to expose it to.
So this is my "why" for heavy leather. It routs in a time when I thought my BR would be my "one and only" leather jacket, so I needed it to last "forever".

 

[handymike]

This is a very accurate response IMHO. After reading about Horween jackets and seeing them here (back in 2011) I went whole hog looking for a used one. there used to be a few here and there on ebay. I found one, and anxiously waited for it's arrival. It was a beast! but I wore it for awhile despite it being 3 sizes too big. I tried again with an Aero Seven which wasn't quite the right fit. Then I found "the one" a Premier Highwayman in the same black FQCXL as the Seven...Well, I loved it!
but then, I sold it. Turns out that while I love the sturdy feel, and the way the hide ages, I never wore it. CXL just isn't a good fit for my LA lifestyle, but I totally get the allure. @Hh121 is in another league, as are the intrepid folks who are trying that thick 5 Star stuff. I personally prefer and wear mid-weight hides.

 

[Marc mndt]

Marc, this has resonated with me. I find it a fair question. Of course I cannot answer for others, but I have thought about my personal "obsession" with heavy leather.

I don't remember when exactly, I wanted to own a "better" leather jacket, but I do remember that I spend an idle hour in the office (during a time of immense stress...) searching for "best leather jacket" or similar. I ended up at a webpage selling Aero, Eastman and LL jackets and was immediately drawn to an Aero Cafe Racer. I was able to track down a seller of Aero´s a two hour drive away, so I went over as soon as I had the chance, ordered an Aero Board Racer in Black CXL HH and my perception of leather jackets was forever changed.
It wasn't style or craftpersonship (in terms of stitch accuracy or the like) that overwhelmed me, it was the pure feeling of sturdiness. The jacket felt basically indestructible, while looking absolutely cool, butch, badass. It was this quality that I was searching for in my next purchases (two more Aero´s in CXL HH and a SB Racer in CXL SH), and so my "obsession" began.

Fast forward a number of years, and I have been able to appreciate the relative comfort of midweight leathers while paying closer attention to detail. Also, I have developped a costly liking to Shinki, so the heavy CXL gets picked mostly when the weather is foul and the temps are moderate.

I still have it in me though, that a leather jacket as the model utility piece needs to be robust to an extent over and above the wear I am likely to expose it to.
So this is my "why" for heavy leather. It routs in a time when I thought my BR would be my "one and only" leather jacket, so I needed it to last "forever".

Thanks for explaining Thomas, it now makes sense to me.

My route to leather jackets was a different one. I used to work in the luxury fashion business, where delecate materials (eg goat suede) and high attention to detail (eg high stitch count) were the quality signifiers. I read a lot about Aero here on the lounge and was therefore expecting Aero to be the pinnacle of leather jackets, the best out there. So I drove to Germany to one of Aero's stockists with the intention of buying / ordering one, only to find out that CXL was not comfortable at all. Way too heavy and stiff for my taste.

Eventually I ended up buying an elmc californian: lightweight hh, relatively high stitch count. Comfortable right out of the box.

Personally, I associate heavy leathers with uncomfortable jackets.

Of course later on when I handled a WD, I learned that heavy jackets can also be perfectly comfortable.

 

[Canuck Panda]

^^^ Marc
Thick Leather + non skived edges + cooler temperature = very uncomfortable, you are correct
warmer = better
skived + warmer = even better
I am testing to see if combination weights + skived edges = best
If you do plan to get a Tochigi jacket they are best known for their veg tan 2mm steerhide. Best to skive the edges for comfortable fit. I saw Greg playing around with a skiving machine once on instagram stories and he cut himself. He was right about skiving in general (that it's better for heavier leather).

Now a photo for Johnson Leather. This is a 4/5 oz Horween Deerskin jacket they are working on. Yes, you read that right, big hulking American deers that wears their armor at 4/5 oz, yet still super soft, and at a bargain price. Little rustic for some, but 4/5 oz super soft deerskin jacket, 840 shipped (to Vancouver) price is pretty decent deal. I bought the leather from Maverick and drop shipped to JL. 50 sf of Horween Deer was 190 plus 650 for JL to make the stock pattern jacket. Custom would cost more, pushing it into Aero price range. I am in it for the leather, so stock pattern and less money.

 

[Pandemic]

@Canuck Panda that hide looks amazing. Can’t wait to see the finished product.

@Jin431 does yours have a throat latch? Did you start with the Eastman jacket and then specify changes you wanted? Finally, what is the advantage of a button-in mouton over snaps? Or is it more about being period correct?

 

[ton312]

Personally, I always equated heavy hides with superior quality (this is quite obviously not the case) but my first “real” jacket was a Vanson. Made everything else “feel” cheap. I’ve never been able to shake that perception entirely.
That said I have found that lighter weight leathers are in fact infinitely more comfortable and also achieve a far superior level of “tailored fit”. I love both equally these days with my ultimate preference being some nice, vintage, mid weight HH.
I also think if you came to this hobby through M/C use, like myself, lighter hides were never seen as useful.

 

[Jin431]

^^^ Marc
Thick Leather + non skived edges + cooler temperature = very uncomfortable, you are correct
warmer = better
skived + warmer = even better
I am testing to see if combination weights + skived edges = best
If you do plan to get a Tochigi jacket they are best known for their veg tan 2mm steerhide. Best to skive the edges for comfortable fit. I saw Greg playing around with a skiving machine once on instagram stories and he cut himself. He was right about skiving in general (that it's better for heavier leather).

Now a photo for Johnson Leather. This is a 4/5 oz Horween Deerskin jacket they are working on. Yes, you read that right, big hulking American deers that wears their armor at 4/5 oz, yet still super soft, and at a bargain price. Little rustic for some, but 4/5 oz super soft deerskin jacket, 840 shipped (to Vancouver) price is pretty decent deal. I bought the leather from Maverick and drop shipped to JL. 50 sf of Horween Deer was 190 plus 650 for JL to make the stock pattern jacket. Custom would cost more, pushing it into Aero price range. I am in it for the leather, so stock pattern and less money.

View attachment 341519

Goodluck with the deerskin CXL order! That will be interesting to see! Hope to see it soon!

@Canuck Panda that hide looks amazing. Can’t wait to see the finished product.

@Jin431 does yours have a throat latch? Did you start with the Eastman jacket and then specify changes you wanted? Finally, what is the advantage of a button-in mouton over snaps? Or is it more about being period correct?

No throat latch as I would never use it but maybe it would be nice to have as a counter balance with the bottom hem snap. Yes, that was the blue print and I just asked them to alter to my preferences (no throat latch/no sleeve snaps/no back pleats/different hand pocket placement to make it more useable). The only things I'll change is the chest pull(should have went for something that will dangle freely) and have the main zipper teeth exposed (to show off the beautiful riri's)

Not really into that period correctness thing. I just wanted a detachable collar and since they made a snap collar for my Aero before, I wanted to see what they come up with when using buttons. The buttons look cleaner over the snaps although it can be a chore to button them into place lol

 

[jadub]

Anyone have a JL Del-66 in 2.5 oz veg tan like this?

https://www.instagram.com/p/CL5RMyUDZ6a/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

I’d love to see fit pics if you do. I think it’s a beauty!