TheDonEffect
Practically Family
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Nothing beats the smell of Horween, lol. Nice jacket man, a ton of graining already too!
Thanks TheDonEffect. I made the change to Horween Vermont from a different leather when the canvas mock up was done. (For those who aren’t aware, you can change basically anything the day of your canvas fitting, which is a huge benefit.) It added $200 to the bill, but it is beautiful horsehide leather, and not too thick either. For those of us who live in SF, a heavy jacket is rarely necessary.Nothing beats the smell of Horween, lol. Nice jacket man, a ton of graining already too!
I'll be curious to hear how that stuff holds up. With acrylic's I always worry about cracking and peeling, as the pigment is just resting on the surface vs dye which actually soaks into the leather. Keep us posted, no doubt the chemical bath is far less severe. I was actually debating on using some minwax wood stain on a jacket, I may give that a shot this weekend.Garment dyed two of my Johnson jackets. Both were made using the raw rustic heavyweight horsehide. The color was a little light/rustic and was hard to pair, so I went darker on both.
Del-66 with Peter's fan back now in mid brown russet:
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M-LEI trucker now in navy blue:
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I used Angelus (acrylic) dye/paint this time instead of the Fiebing Pro (oil). It's a lot easier to use, just roll it on like paint, not a lot of pre-treatment needed, except a good wipe clean. The Fiebing stuff required too much stripping and cleaning before the actual dye goes on and it doesn't stay on by it self and needs a sealant afterwards. The Angelus stuff is for lazy amateurs like me. Also I went with two light coats instead of laying them on heavy as it started to look plastic if I went fully opague. There is also a matte finish I will try next time.
Before pics:
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I am now addicted to re-dye... Will try more different things next.
One coat will have peeling. Two coat is solid but starts to look plastic. I did some test on the collar with the trucker. A good scrubbing under the sink will peel on the one coat, but two coat stays. This stuff can cover stuff hides like CXL too.I'll be curious to hear how that stuff holds up. With acrylic's I always worry about cracking and peeling, as the pigment is just resting on the surface vs dye which actually soaks into the leather. Keep us posted, no doubt the chemical bath is far less severe. I was actually debating on using some minwax wood stain on a jacket, I may give that a shot this weekend.
Well, let me speak on the virtues of minwax. I used it to stain some concrete. This first was accidental. The second on purpose. Looked so good two of my neighbors did the same. What could go wrong?I'll be curious to hear how that stuff holds up. With acrylic's I always worry about cracking and peeling, as the pigment is just resting on the surface vs dye which actually soaks into the leather. Keep us posted, no doubt the chemical bath is far less severe. I was actually debating on using some minwax wood stain on a jacket, I may give that a shot this weekend.
Not so much looks but I wanted to see how redyeing this type leather would work. The deep grooves took twice the dye than normal hide. In time this jacket will fade back to brown, in about 100 years...@Canuck Panda
Why did you go for the blacking out? Look incredible before the color change as well! Too rustic/rugged?
Shrunken Goat straight zip CHP (archive pattern, not the current Bay area PD contract one), blacked out by me...
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Brown before pics:
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Yup, that's the one. There are three in the group, the X-zip the straight zip and the cafe racer collor one.
From jacket addiction to re-dye addiction...
The zipper is nice as it is.From jacket addiction to re-dye addiction...
My very first JL jacket was a stock M500, made in a Horween deerskin I supplied them with <150>. It has been re-dyed to give it a new look. Went two tone this time.
Before and After:
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Deerskin leather drank like a fish. Took about 7 one fl oz bottles of Angelus to get to this point. Very squeaky and a bit shiny now. Applying top coating this weekend. The addiction continues...
Should I get some more Rustloleum paint to blacken the brass zips?
That's pretty cool, what kind of deerskin was it? I've always wondered about darkening zipper/snaps as I like look of antique nickel but I don't think JL offers it standard.From jacket addiction to re-dye addiction...
My very first JL jacket was a stock M500, made in a Horween deerskin I supplied them with <150>. It has been re-dyed to give it a new look. Went two tone this time.
Before and After:
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Deerskin leather drank like a fish. Took about 7 one fl oz bottles of Angelus to get to this point. Very squeaky and a bit shiny now. Applying top coating this weekend. The addiction continues...
Should I get some more Rustloleum paint to blacken the brass zips?
It was the Horween seconds from a few years back. Four skins for 190 shipped! 4.5oz, one of the best deals I've gotten. But the skins have a lot of stain marks. See below photo. I wore it for two years through rain and snow and it's fine, I just got a lot of comments from family members along the lines of the bum look, so I painted it.That's pretty cool, what kind of deerskin was it? I've always wondered about darkening zipper/snaps as I like look of antique nickel but I don't think JL offers it standard.
By the way, did you have any more pictures of that Kudu crosszip? I'm actually thinking of doing something similar myself, though a different kind of kudu with a more traditional grain. I've never done a crosszip before.
I wouldn't be opposed to a group buy, seems to be the only way to get a hold of some leathers with minimums too. The particular one I'm looking at is the black classic kudu. I had a boot made from it; didn't have nearly the amount of markings as that Hyena jacket, had more of a deerskin grain with a bit more sheen. It's still pretty heavy though (4.5-5.5 oz) but JL can have it skived down. I usually go with something in the 3-4 oz range.It was the Horween seconds from a few years back. Four skins for 190 shipped! 4.5oz, one of the best deals I've gotten. But the skins have a lot of stain marks. See below photo. I wore it for two years through rain and snow and it's fine, I just got a lot of comments from family members along the lines of the bum look, so I painted it.
The Kudu I have is from AA Crack Sons, CFS African Kudu Hyena, 4 skins about 50 sf for £395 shipped. Prices is pre covid not sure what they're at now. This tannage is too thick. They advertise 5.5oz but is really 6.5oz. And is too thick for jackets. The suede side is also finished, finest cashmere feeling suede ever. There is a thinner one now CFS naked Kude. Tannery Row also has the Kudu classic in thinner weights. The grain side is quite rough. We are talking wolverin claw marks. Not sure about the Kudu Classic from Tannery Row, best to call and check.
The light brown one is the Horween 4.5oz deer (Wapiti I think because the skins are very large), the dark seal
one is the Kudu Hyena. You can see the stain marks on the Horween deer and the claw marks on the Kudu:
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The Kudu jacket. This is the stock M500. I just went rough on on the pockets. Really feels like cashmere the suede parts. Too thick though. Better if under 4.5oz. 6.5oz jackets are awesome in theory only. I rarely wear the kudu jacket because of the thickness, it's like a stag head trophy in my closet. I would go invisible collar snap on the lapels. I have just enough hides left over I will get the inside lapel panels swapped out so the snaps don't show. Much classier look. It was either this or go all out Perfecto look with the coin pocket and more snaps and belts. I am leaning more the muted looks these days.
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If you need a group buy to get the Kudu from Tannery Row I might be in. They give different pricings for 100sf orders, so basically two and half jackets to three. But it will have to be later this year. It's painting jackets for the next few months. Taking advantage of the dry summer months.
Honestly I think Horween thick deer is actually the best bet. They run them a few times a year I think. We could just wait for an A grade mini run. Kudu only makes a lot of sense if you plan on using the reverse side too, like on an unlined jacket, otherwise the finished soft suede side sort of goes to waste if not used.
There is also the 4oz goat that JL sources, its in the similar category. A bit heavy in actual pounds though. My goat trucker is over 8lbs and it doesn't get as much wear as it should because of the actual weight. Something to think about. Deer is really the happy medium.
I can do 4 hides but the price needs to be more wholesale than retail.I wouldn't be opposed to a group buy, seems to be the only way to get a hold of some leathers with minimums too. The particular one I'm looking at is the black classic kudu. I had a boot made from it; didn't have nearly the amount of markings as that Hyena jacket, had more of a deerskin grain with a bit more sheen. It's still pretty heavy though (4.5-5.5 oz) but JL can have it skived down. I usually go with something in the 3-4 oz range.
I did like the Horween deer a lot (retailer was almost certain it was elk/wapiti, the hides were over 20 sq ft). It's just random when they'll run it and if they'll have any leftovers.
Agree on the cross zips. The minimalist, aviator style without the coin pocket, belt etc... always appealed to me the most. From the looks of it I won't need to modify the M500 much for that.