john waynes coat in true grit

[tuco1963]

anyone know the make or style of the dukes coat in true grit?

 

[Seb Lucas]

Photo?

 

[Seb Lucas]

From the internet:

A Stockade Jacket from "True Grit." Paramount, 1969. Made of heavy-weight tan cotton, four front flap pockets, four button front closure, tan corduroy collar and cuffs, inside lining stamped "American" [United American Costume/American Costume Corporation, Luster Bayless' company], no other labels; worn as Wayne portrayed "Rooster Cogburn" in the film that won him an Academy Award for 'Best Actor in a Leading Role.' (Please note jacket is stained and dirtied as it was not cleaned after production; there is also a hole on the back right shoulder.)

This style of coat, known as a "stockade jacket," became part of Wayne's standard western costume for the rest of his career. It is first seen in the 1960 20th Century Fox release, "North to Alaska" (but with an added small pocket sewn on top of the larger left breast pocket) and then the design slightly changed to a three pocket version (which Wayne wore in three films) and then it changed again to a four pocket version (which Wayne wore in his last nine western films). It is believed that six of these "stockade jackets" were originally made: one for each of the "Chucks" [Roberson and Hayward, Wayne's longtime stunt doubles] and four for Wayne himself.


It looks like a variation of a chore jacket.

 

[1961MJS]

Hi

Unfortunately you don't live near James County Mercantile up in Independence MO. From that picture they could probably work you up a coat like that. I have a wool coat from them that is very nice.

Later

 

[Renault]

Close?

http://www.riverjunction.com/Coat--Rio-Bravo-Cowboy-Coat--Unlined-Canvas-Shell--Heirloom_p_67.html

 

[Seb Lucas]

Yeah R, I'd say that was one company's shot at reproducing the look.

 

[Dinerman]

It's very close to hunting jackets of the '10s-'60s. The reinforced shoulders, corduroy collar and turnback cuffs, material, pocket design and color are all typical. Some manufacturers favored a four pocket style, others a three pocket with a smaller pocket over the breast pocket sharing the same flap. Take a look through the vintage hunting thread
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?73355-Vintage-Hunting-Clothes

 

[Seb Lucas]

Of course, thanks Diner.

 

[EmergencyIan]

I think that River Junction Rio Bravo coat is the closest (maybe only) reproduction that you'll find, at this point...unless you find a vintage piece that's even closer.

- Ian

 

[Seb Lucas]

E-Ian, I think that's self evident.

 

[EmergencyIan]

E-Ian, I think that's self evident.

You think?...


- Ian

 

[Seb Lucas]

Yep. Unless someone finds one that is tailored with a bit more flair. I haven't been able to find anything else yet.

 

[Seb Lucas]

An LL Bean 1960's "all purpose" jacket based on a penitentiary jacket.

 

[cordwangler]

Yep. Unless someone finds one that is tailored with a bit more flair. I haven't been able to find anything else yet.

Have another look! This one is close

http://www.manufactum.com/pike-brothers-1942-duck-canvas-hunting-jacket-p1466194/

 

[Dinerman]

An LL Bean 1960's "all purpose" jacket based on a penitentiary jacket.

View attachment 16851

Penitentiary jacket? That one's for fly fishing.

 

[EmergencyIan]

Have another look! This one is close

http://www.manufactum.com/pike-brothers-1942-duck-canvas-hunting-jacket-p1466194/

That's a pretty good looking Pike Brothers jacket!

I think River Junction's jacket is much closer, though. They need to add photographs of a person wearing it (front, back, side) to get a better idea of fit. They way the advertise it, currently, doesn't add to it's appeal.

In saying that, it's probably a very nice, well made jacket.

- Ian

 

[Seb Lucas]

Penitentiary jacket? That one's for fly fishing.

Just what I read on the website. "Based on a Penitentiary jacket" (adapted for fishing). But I wouldn't know I went fishing once 30 years ago.

 

[Dinerman]

That's a Japanese misinterpretation of the term Warden (meaning Game Warden) to Prison warden. Here's the original ad they got the term from.

 

[Seb Lucas]

That fits Diner. Thanks.

The Pike Bros one is nice but not especially close.