JL custom m200

[Jin431]

It was a size 8 riri, and it was on a 3.5 oz cowhide so it wasn't terribly thick leather or anything. The #10 zip is just way better. I would switch to the new leather but I'm pretty sure they've already started the jacket.

Too bad that leather made me think hard twice before picking the brown cxl too. Did you go with the brown cxl too? What jacket pattern did you go with this time?

If you hang out here long enough, and buy enough jackets, it is almost inevitable that you will experience this sooner or later. It has happened to me three times now, always with jackets that I purchased new from reputable makers. Two of the jackets were heavy horsehide (my CXL Aero Bootlegger and my LW CHP)while the third was a lighter Horsehide (my GW Arcadia). The first two jackets I replaced the zippers with #8 riris and they have been fine ever since. The latest one will be a #10 YKK and I anticipate that it will work flawlessly as well.
I have learned two things from this; the first is that all of the zippers that failed performed poorly from the moment I received the jacket, in retrospect it was something I knew would break sooner or later. The second is that it has cured me of any romantic fascination or interest in using vintage or dead stock zippers. I know they look awesome and really give the jacket that special touch, but I want something that I don’t have to worry about or baby.

Does the talon that aero uses vintage/dead stock/repro?
Wow, that's a lot of hardware failure and all from reputable companies. I'm now resigned to the fact that it's just one of those things that will fail sooner or later so I don't really mind it now.

 

[El Marro]

Does the talon that aero uses vintage/dead stock/repro?

The Aero jackets I have owned have #5 Waldes zippers. They look great but in my opinion they are totally inadequate for heavy CXL. They would probably work fine for a lighter leather like Vicenza.

 

[Jin431]

^^ Agreed, felt that the stock zipper was inadequate for the 50s HB Cxl Fqhh I had. Knew it was just a matter of time before the retainer box gave way.

 

[Psant25]

^^ been waiting for mine to fail on my aero. Still going strong. Just have to concentrate and take a lil more time lining it up and zipping up

 

[Jin431]

^^ hope it never happens. thanks, I'm now being more careful aligning the insert pin to the box. Reached out to JL but no reply yet when my jacket will be ready for pick up.

 

[Goel]

Too bad that leather made me think hard twice before picking the brown cxl too. Did you go with the brown cxl too? What jacket pattern did you go with this time?

I ordered a brown CXL halfbelt a few months back but they only recently finished it. Unfortunately they forgot a few things I had on the order so they're currently remaking it, but the stiff CXL and lack of gussets combined with them offering lighter weight horsehides they didn't have back when I first ordered have me second guessing. I may end up doing a catch and release.

 

[Jin431]

^^ got it, too bad about that. Did you order the new HB pattern?

 

[Goel]

It was actually a custom design with a fan back, but I think Johnson's new half belt pattern is probably better because of the action back.

 

[TheDonEffect]

Yeah, the whole fascination with zippers almost drew me in, namely because of the more unique pulls and such.

But I've broken my share of zippers in my life, and what I've learned is always get ykk. The best, most durable backpacks use them. Most of my good jackets use them. In the end they just work. Nothing like spending this kind of dough on a jacket and then the zipper fails.

You know I akways find it odd how people want period correct this or that, but then get it in a modern fit.

But I get it, I will only order orange juice in a restaurant if its fresh squeezed, and some people want a harvested zipper from a vintage war uniform.

 

[TheDonEffect]

Man, it looked perfect checking it out in person in the store today. I do like a shiny jacket but I can’t imagine how anything could improve on that leather as it is.

Yeah I was shocked how much I ended up liking it too. Its gonna make breaking in my cxl that much more miserable.

 

[Jin431]

It was actually a custom design with a fan back, but I think Johnson's new half belt pattern is probably better because of the action back.

I saw that, that looked great. The new HB pattern they have is sleeker/trimmer fitting with high arm holes. Properly sized, I think it will have great range of motion.

Yeah, the whole fascination with zippers almost drew me in, namely because of the more unique pulls and such.

But I've broken my share of zippers in my life, and what I've learned is always get ykk. The best, most durable backpacks use them. Most of my good jackets use them. In the end they just work. Nothing like spending this kind of dough on a jacket and then the zipper fails.

You know I akways find it odd how people want period correct this or that, but then get it in a modern fit.

But I get it, I will only order orange juice in a restaurant if its fresh squeezed, and some people want a harvested zipper from a vintage war uniform.

Yes, the cool looking vintage pulls are fascinating until they fail. I like the repro look but will go with function first, as it's a hassle and waste of money.

 

[TheDonEffect]

You know, looking through the Vicenza thread, and all the recent posts of Shinki, I really do think that new stuff is very akin to a cross between those two.

 

[Goel]

Actually, is the new leather the Blattwerk from SB? I think that was an olive tanned horsehide from Germany as well. What I'm also curious about is the other Horween leathers like Vermont and Milan.

 

[TheDonEffect]

Actually, is the new leather the Blattwerk from SB? I think that was an olive tanned horsehide from Germany as well. What I'm also curious about is the other Horween leathers like Vermont and Milan.

Good catch, I think it is that one.

 

[Goel]

I've also been told it's kind of a naked finish, so it will be very soft but not so good in inclement weather. The Vermont leather is also quite soft but does have some slightly better weather resistance thanks to its finish. Since they haven't cut my jacket yet I think I'll be switching to that.

 

[Jin431]

^^ okay that might be it, I'll try to confirm with JL later in the week. I'll be picking up my jacket on Thur or Fri

 

[Psant25]

Got notice on my fit jacket. They were waiting on some samples of buffalo

@Jin431 cant wait to see your jacket and review

 

[Jin431]

Got notice on my fit jacket. They were waiting on some samples of buffalo

@Jin431 cant wait to see your jacket and review

Alright, hope you get it soon and get the actual jacket cut in no time.
Buffalo? They offer that now too? JL spoiling us for choices

I know, I'm excited to finally have a brown CXL piece. Will do, will try to post photos by Friday. Thank you.

 

[TheDonEffect]

Woo can't wait to see it.

 

[TheDonEffect]

I've also been told it's kind of a naked finish, so it will be very soft but not so good in inclement weather. The Vermont leather is also quite soft but does have some slightly better weather resistance thanks to its finish. Since they haven't cut my jacket yet I think I'll be switching to that.

Which makes it perfect for the bay area.