JL custom m200

[JMax]

My custom LePera Outcast seat is awesome.

 

[Edward]

I think an angled pocket is the way to go, it gives a much more interesting look to the jacket. Also, I would see about getting a Talon ball and chain, or a diamond pull, or something similar for the chest pocket zipper. The plain old yKK zipper sticking straight out the side with a leather fob attached is very dull.

I agree. The trick, if you want it functional, is to go for a bigger one like you see on a Perfecto or an Aero Bootlegger, rather than the aesthetically nice but markedly smaller angled pockets you see on many halfbelts. I love the look of the smaller angled pockets, but they do have practical limits.

I am having a custom "Brando" style jacket made in 4oz black overdye.

By Johnson? Looking forward to seeing that. I have a Johnson D pocket I bought used some years ago (came via eBay, but I believe it was bought originally by a Lounger and then sold to another from whom I bought it, so it's stayed in the family so to speak). At some point it has had added - I think by the first owner - a few studs and gemstones, giving it that real American rockabilly biker look. The only thing I think I'd change if I were speccing out a new one from them would be to order it just a little shorter, maybe by an inch and a half; it was clearly cut for use on a bike without it riding up too far. That said, while noticeably longer in the body than my Schott 618, it's not long to the point of throwing the design off balance. Sizing is bigger than my go-to Aero; whereas I'd wear a 44 in most Aeros, this is labelled a 42. Would be closer a 46 in some brands/models (including the 618). Quality-wise, I think it's fair to say it holds its own up against my Aero jackets, and it is definitely nicer than the Schott (not to say the Schott is bad, just that the Johnson is better imo).

I only had 1 experience with a naked hide. I had a Fox Creek vest. I never treated it or conditioned it with anything. It really soaked up the water and took forever to dry out. Plus the sun faded the black to a grey. I probably should have taken better care of it. Naked hide is very comfortable straight from the box, as you know. Can't wait to see it.

Had a cheap, UK 1980s made Perfecto-type jacket years ago which was bought from a charity shop for a tenner. Naked cowhide. It was a light grey when I got it, but after a hefty go over with black boot polish, it came up very well indeed. (Oddly, after that as it aged, it had something of a brownish / teacore look that I don't recall it having prior to my blackening it with the polish. Maybe something in the polish itself?)

 

[Psant25]

I found out from Tony at Honcho Boots my month out custom Honcho cowboy boots in brown “horse butt” are actually made of horween cxl horsehide. And I thought the 385 Usd price tag for custom all leather el paso TX made boots was good before. Wow.

I received shipping notification from JL hopefully it is my re-sleeved chp and also the fit Jacket m200. Damon was going to include a sample of brown 3.5 oz cxl horse they have in stock.

Lol now has me leaning back to brown cxl HH 3.5 oz to match my new boots

 

[Psant25]

This boot is similar to mine. 13 inch height, B pulls, 8 scallop, Round toe, and walking heel. The foot leather in this pic is “horse butt” and will be used on my lower AND upper. I also am doing a simple chain stitch pattern at the top of the shaft and not this detailed pattern. Also, I am having the shaft narrowed for my skinny legs.

 

[Jin431]

I found out from Tony at Honcho Boots my month out custom Honcho cowboy boots in brown “horse butt” are actually made of horween cxl horsehide. And I thought the 385 Usd price tag for custom all leather el paso TX made boots was good before. Wow.

I received shipping notification from JL hopefully it is my re-sleeved chp and also the fit Jacket m200. Damon was going to include a sample of brown 3.5 oz cxl horse they have in stock.

Lol now has me leaning back to brown cxl HH 3.5 oz to match my new boots

That boot is cool and that's a lot of boot for the price!

Good luck on the mod m200, I'm also having 2nd thoughts about the overdye as I'm lusting for a cordovan recently lol

 

[El Marro]

I'm also having 2nd thoughts about the overdye as I'm lusting for a cordovan recently lol

Everybody needs at least one cordovan jacket in their repertoire. Mine is a cordovan Bootlegger that I rarely wear but when I do it always draws a compliment.

 

[Jin431]

^^ yep, I'm starting to see why it's really good and I read o here it pairs well with either black/brown footwear

 

[Jin431]

JL doesn't have cordovan cxl available but they have burgundy cxl, I don't know if that's similar/close but that's what they have at the moment.

 

[Psant25]

JL doesn't have cordovan cxl available but they have burgundy cxl, I don't know if that's similar/close but that's what they have at the moment.

Yeah on their IG that burgundy looks really nice. They put out a few half belts recently that also look really good.

 

[Jin431]

Yep, I saw that too and I think I remember looking at it at the store. The cordovan I see here on the forum looks richer but hard to say really. I have 3 other black jackets coming so it might be a little too much if I order the black overdye too. Maybe I'll pick between the brown vs burgundy.

 

[Psant25]

The re-sleeved mc500 (chp) arrived thank u JL the sleeves seem to match now which they should. No brown cxl hh sample and no fit jacket. I think they are pretty back up right now for custom jackets.

 

[TheDonEffect]

I've been lurking on these boards for some time, and I have been enjoying following your build. I also have a custom JL job in process, my fit jacket won't be until around Thanksgiving (my measurements will probably all messed up if it's after Thanksgiving, lol). This is my second jacket I'm getting done by then, first time I forgot who I worked with, wasn't Alan, but this time I'm working with Damon and he's been great. I just love that they're willing to do anything within reason to make really a bespoke jacket.

I can't wait to see how yours turns out.

 

[El Marro]

I've been lurking on these boards for some time, and I have been enjoying following your build. I also have a custom JL job in process, my fit jacket won't be until around Thanksgiving (my measurements will probably all messed up if it's after Thanksgiving, lol). This is my second jacket I'm getting done by then, first time I forgot who I worked with, wasn't Alan, but this time I'm working with Damon and he's been great. I just love that they're willing to do anything within reason to make really a bespoke jacket.

I can't wait to see how yours turns out.

Welcome to the Lounge man!
Post some photos of the first jacket JL made you when you get a chance. Their custom work is awesome and we don’t get to see enough of it.

 

[Jin431]

The re-sleeved mc500 (chp) arrived thank u JL the sleeves seem to match now which they should. No brown cxl hh sample and no fit jacket. I think they are pretty back up right now for custom jackets.

I saw the jacket post on the WJAYWT thread but what did the sleeve look like before?

 

[Psant25]

I saw the jacket post on the WJAYWT thread but what did the sleeve look like before?

Just after I had them shorten both sleeves one sleeve was longer than the other. They agreed to make it right and change out both sleeves new

 

[TheDonEffect]

Welcome to the Lounge man!
Post some photos of the first jacket JL made you when you get a chance. Their custom work is awesome and we don’t get to see enough of it.

Welcome to the Lounge man!
Post some photos of the first jacket JL made you when you get a chance. Their custom work is awesome and we don’t get to see enough of it.

Thank you! These forums have been my new past time and a welcomed distraction in the current world.

My apologies OP for hijacking your thread.

I never thought about posting my jacket, I don't think it's anything people here would be interested in. I made it for my simple tastes. But here goes the story.

I wanted a nice leather jacket, classic, something thats mine. I'm not a biker, I'm not handy, and I don't consider myself as a tough guy, so I don't want a jacket that projected I was a biker. But I like the lapels of double riders and just wanted something clean.

I'm 5'9 225lb, so fit for clothes that don't stretch is a challenge for me, so trying on is a must.

So I went down the rabbit hole (thanks FL), eventually wanting something like a Aero Bootlegger. I went through the usual suspects, Aero, Simmons, etc, but it always came down to spending a lot on something I couldn't see in person.

Johnson Leather was on my radar since they were local, but the styles and dated website didn't entice me. It took me a while to connect that when people here mentioned JL, that they meant Johnson Leather, and then I understood what they're capable of.

I forgot who I dealt with there for my first jacket, wasn't Alan or Damon (who I'm working with now). Tried on a bunch of their stock, mostly traditional variations of perfectos, car coats, blazers, etc. Nothing really jumped out to me.

I told the guy what I was looking for, and he explained the full custom route and the semi custom route, which is more or less the same. I found a less ornate perfecto type in 42 that fit pretty well, and we worked from there. At the end of the day, it was a completely different jacket. Made it to my measurements, changed everything.

I read ad naseum about all the different leathers and such. I went through a brief raw denim phase, so I knew I did not want something I had wine and dine in hopes that maybe it will love me one day, I wanted instant gratification. At the time, JL didn't do much volume with Horween and such, and frankly for me it wasnt worth the cost, effort, and wait for it. I was obsessed with durability because I wanted this garment to last considering the money I was putting into this, overthought this (thank you FL), so went with 3oz calf black (m100?), but naked since it was buttery soft from the get go, and the one they use really is nice. I later remembered my brothers 20 year old lambskin kenneth cole went through absolute hell with zero upkeep and still looks great. And I cannot stress absolute hell.

So all black, single panels front, bi swing back, two hand warmers, zippered cuffs, all black YKK hardware, snap inner pocket, hidden lapel snaps, that's it.

But, there was one thing I wanted from the beginning of this journey. I love Tartan, but I'm not Scottish. And I wanted it to be something I resonated with. I wanted a Hawaiian print liner. And JL happily obliged, gave me the parameters and sent me on my mission.

So here it is. It may appear sorta chocolate but I assure you it's jet black with zero brown anywhere in the leather. It's over 2 years old, got moderate use, it's seen some rain, been tightly packed in a suitcase, saw Chicago cold, and it's held up really great.

I'm no expert on leather workmanship but I have a little bit of an eye, the stitching follows the edges consistently, no wandering needle, no ballooning anywhere, tight stitches, I was going for a simple look, so no fancy stitching like french stitching, doubles, triangles around the pockets, etc, just straightforward and all black. Some of the stitching may look like its wavering, but they're all straight, just a bit wrinkled from use.

If I have any regrets, I would've went with a lighter leather since it would be more flattering for my well fed physique, and more usable in CA weather. The heavier hide just reminds me too much of actual CHP officers writing me a ticket for going 1mph over the limit (true story). Also, I plan to take it back to get more space around the bottom because the jacket is painted on me when I zip it up around that area. It fits like it's supposed to, but I don't care, it makes it less useable.

In conclusion, JL is awesome, such a fun experience, like getting a bespoke suit made for you where you're involved with every decision. And they're a small business in San Francisco where all of their jackets are made, yet their prices are still very competitive and reasonable.

They don't boast about their history, don't harvest buttons from jackets that were found in an abandoned labor camp that worked on the golden gate bridge, they don't apply techniques because one obscure forgotten brand did it that way. They stock good quality materials that you would actually want to wear with the ability to get whatever you want, they will make pretty much whatever you want, and will execute it impeccably. The fact that my thumbprints are all over this design and fitted to me is what makes it special to me. I bucked alot of the trends on these boards at the time and made what I wanted.

 

[El Marro]

That’s a very nice jacket, thanks for sharing the pictures and the story!

 

[JMax]

Great looking jacket. The liner really makes it all pop.

 

[TheDonEffect]

Thanks guys, I just need to get more room down low and it'll be perfect. I could probably shorten the sleeves a little as well as I don't plan to ever ride with it but meh.

Yeah, the liner is what makes it less stern and really makes it mine.

Oh and since this is an emerging topic on these boards, I counted 7-9 stitches per inch throughout the jacket, mostly 7-8. I never bothered counting before, when I inspected it years ago, I was going for tight close stitching that followed lines properly, and overall the thing just exudes being well made, but not unnecessarily so. To date, all the stitches held up really well, no ballooning or loose threads emerging, etc.

 

[Monitor]

@TheDonEffect , that's a really great write up that deserves a thread of its own but yeah, absolutely agreed on all points. JL makes a great, sturdy, tough & beautiful jacket in every regard, all the while being capable of miracles. Fantastic customer service, too. You can't go wrong with them.