JL custom m200

[Psant25]

Got money down on another JL custom m200. Going to spec it similar to the fine creek eric as far as slight front dip and similar back panel. Otherwise it is already similar. The panel is similar to my brown m200 which I submitted a pic of schott 613 for. My main debate is adding side cinches similar location of schott 689. Any thoughts on the cinches and location?

Leather I thinking horween 3.5 oz black overdye

lining maybe black heavy satin all over. Maybe satin sleeves and black quilt body

Hardware: dull nickel and 10 two way main

I am bringing in the shoulders and may add sleeve length. 6 weeks for the cloth mock up jacket and damon said maybe 2 months for more horween so I have some time unless I wanna use something they stock for leather

 

[Psant25]

Here is a semi-stock m200 I had a while back

 

[Psant25]

And anotha one....

 

[ton312]

I’d put the belts at the top of the kidney panel! Avoid the bulbous gut caused by placing the belts at the hem.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I've explored getting one of these made in a 2.5 oz hide (I don't need heavy leather). Have you considered the collar shape? You make like it as is, but it seems a bit too small for my taste. I would ask for more of a ton-Bates style, fuller collar shape.

 

[Hh121]

Here is the mismatched leather from JL overdye, of course the picture is heavily edited just like what FC did.

If you want teacore leather :

 

[Psant25]

I've explored getting one of these made in a 2.5 oz hide (I don't need heavy leather). Have you considered the collar shape? You make like it as is, but it seems a bit too small for my taste. I would ask for more of a ton-Bates style, fuller collar shape.

Ill have to think about that. My mc500 has a little longer pointier collar and I needed to add hidden snaps for the bike as they turned into a little bit of a flying nun scenario. Not sure i will wear this riding

 

[Psant25]

Wow that looks good

Here is the mismatched leather from JL overdye, of course the picture is heavily edited just like what FC did.
View attachment 261441
If you want teacore leather :

 

[El Marro]

I've explored getting one of these made in a 2.5 oz hide (I don't need heavy leather). Have you considered the collar shape? You make like it as is, but it seems a bit too small for my taste. I would ask for more of a ton-Bates style, fuller collar shape.

I’m with you on this Seb. I think a collar more like the Freewheelers Mulholland would look great.

to illustrate my point here is a photo of our very own @dudewuttheheck looking fly.

 

[Psant25]

What do you think about the angled breast pocket vs straight?

 

[navetsea]

Size and shape of neck hole, the height where the zipper ends and obviously the shape of the collar is important for the look, looking at your previous JL, their neck hole is more generously sized, and the zip going up higher on the front, i think to replicate the source better the neckhole should be more teardrop shape than round or oval. Just my own opinion though i never see both jackets in person.

 

[ton312]

The Bates collar is the best shirt collared style collar I’ve had. Not sure if it would over power a shorter jacket (this Bates is 28” long). If you want to trace it Brad, I’ll send it to ya to do so. Wear it a couple days and get a feel for it. It’s a BFC. No doubt about it.

 

[Jin431]

Good luck with your next project! We will receive our jackets pretty much at the same time.

 

[Seb Lucas]

The Bates collar is the best shirt collared style collar I’ve had. Not sure if it would over power a shorter jacket (this Bates is 28” long). If you want to trace it Brad, I’ll send it to ya to do so. Wear it a couple days and get a feel for it. It’s a BFC. No doubt about it.
View attachment 261483

You know you have a problem when just seeing that collar makes you feel good... Hell of a jacket, ton - love it.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Based on those photos, I would not go with the cinches personally. I think it looks better without.

I also think that what both @El Marro and @ton312 suggest would be improvements on the original collar.

 

[Psant25]

Here is the brown one above after some wear. That one had a little front drop and straight back. I am bringing in the shoulder 1.5 in on the cloth jacket to 19. Stock for 42 is 20.5. Might end up with 19.5 if I choose the quilted lining. Has the gussets that actually work

 

[El Marro]

What do you think about the angled breast pocket vs straight?

I think an angled pocket is the way to go, it gives a much more interesting look to the jacket. Also, I would see about getting a Talon ball and chain, or a diamond pull, or something similar for the chest pocket zipper. The plain old yKK zipper sticking straight out the side with a leather fob attached is very dull.

 

[handymike]

While the Bates collar is phenomenal, I also feel it would be too much for a shorter jacket. Sears did the right size in the 40s and 50s with theirs which was around 3 1/2 inches wide.

 

[Psant25]

I think an angled pocket is the way to go, it gives a much more interesting look to the jacket. Also, I would see about getting a Talon ball and chain, or a diamond pull, or something similar for the chest pocket zipper. The plain old yKK zipper sticking straight out the side with a leather fob attached is very dull.

Maybe even a talon zip upgrade as the puller shape looks nicer. Not sure I am a fan of the longer pulls. After horween and talon price upgrade it is getting up there lol

 

[navetsea]

Here is the brown one above after some wear. That one had a little front drop and straight back. I am bringing in the shoulder 1.5 in on the cloth jacket to 19. Stock for 42 is 20.5. Might end up with 19.5 if I choose the quilted lining. Has the gussets that actually work

View attachment 261510 View attachment 261511

i think the zipper must stop at the hollow of your neck, near where your tshirt neck is, and the neck hole smaller or how the collar is connected to the neck hole should slanting inward on the front an side touching your neck , so when you spread them as a lapel it would look flat the neck hole is not too wide, just like a collar and lapel of a suit jacket.