Jeans

[McFarlaneNYC]

Oki-ni is having a nice sale on vintage jeans.
http://www.oki-ni.com/
Charlie

 

[Mysterious Mose]

I'd like to be proven wrong, though, Mose.

B
T

Tough one. I'm no denim fancier, really, I don't wear it very often. I do love to read about the stuff.
I get your points re. mall denim and LVC. Had a pair of Edwin Nashvilles that were too small. But they are very nice, heavy and dark.
I like the 1901 LVC. I like my cheap Levis all-duty overalls.
It's a matter of personal taste I reckon. I like to dress like the guys in the old pictures, I don't really care if it's White Oak Mills or not. That's just my opinion.

I couldn't say what proper denim or chambray looks like. The fourth pair of trousers are Ben Davis, I'd consider them Mall denim. They look and feel cheap. The rest is a mixture of high and low-end Lee and Levis:

The shirts and jackets are a mix of vintage and repro:

Lee repro western shirt, selvedge denim and a lee outlet blue twill workshirt, for pennies:

Same here, expensive repro selvedge denim mechanics cap and a cheap vintage engineer hat:

Early 90's french repro no.1 jacket, raw, beautiful denim, maybe washed twice:

Pre-Wrangler Bluebell chorecoat, selvage denim,faded, patched and repaired, soft as butter:

This is as scientific as I'm gonna get. These are Levis LVC Koverups. I have a pair, unworn and a pair that I wear a few days a year for almost ten years now. Very lightweight selvedge denim, soaked very hot for shrinkage, washed when needed.
I have no hot dryer btw. I've heard it can shrink up your laundry from very knowledgable housewives, not just Sufu teens.

Side by side:

Shrinkage after hot soak, waistbands aligned:

Close-up for colour and texture difference before and after wash and wear:

These are dutch farmer jackets, indigo sateen cotton, one deadstock, one heavily worn, faded and repaired. I very much prefer the wornout look:

That's all.

 

[BellyTank]

Those jackets are virtually the same as... no I'll keep it secret.

B
T

 

[djgo-cat-go]

B
T

lol lol lol :eusa_clap

 

[djgo-cat-go]

Huh... I've always heard not to wash raw denim. :eusa_doh:

Yeah, well, I don't care too much anymore about the special care 'washing instructions'.. as long as they don't end up in a dryer (everything shrinks seriously in a dryer..)..

 

[mike]

Mose! Great comparisons! This is definitely a subject that remains open for debate!

Update on my Toyo repro Headlight jeans: color is indeed a bit more washed out after a hot wash and dry. Major shrinkage occurred to width and length. Both of which are welcome in this case! These were terrifically oversized, and I really loved the look apart from they sat slightly too high to wear to my job for my tastes (obviously making a statement with pants that sit higher than your navel) and the seat was so large that I thought it looked too sloppy on me. Now... they fit perfectly and I can wear em anywhere and everywhere! Pictures? I have no stinkin' pictures Thanks for convincing me, I just needed a push.

 

[Mysterious Mose]

Pictures? I have no stinkin' pictures

I have no words!

 

[Mysterious Mose]

I bought a 1901 LVC Levi's repro.. really dissapointed in the made quality: denim is too thin in my opinion.. probably will get firmer after a few washings.. but what really struck me are the fake donut-buttons.. I will post a picture later to illustrate.. really cheesy man!!

You're right about the buttons! They're on the spring bottom pants as well.
My other lvc's and rrl's have very nice donuts or bachelor button lookalikes.
Í just bought a lifetime supply of bachelor buttons are you goin' to see the the Sonics next month? I can bring you a box.

 

[djgo-cat-go]

You're right about the buttons! They're on the spring bottom pants as well.
My other lvc's and rrl's have very nice donuts or bachelor button lookalikes.
Í just bought a lifetime supply of bachelor buttons are you goin' to see the the Sonics next month? I can bring you a box.

Wow, thanks Mose, that's mighty kind of you.. don't know about going to see the Sonics, I'm pretty busy through march. Thanks anyways, really appreciate it

 

[The Good]

As I'm in the process of losing weight still, the only two jeans that currently fit me are the common Levi 550s (relaxed fit). Now they're starting to feel a bit loose. When I reach my weight target, I'm thinking about buying either a Wrangler cowboy-fit jean (I know it has a name, but I can't recall), or a classic Levi 501 jean. What are your experiences with those mentioned? Would you recommend one over the other? What is the overall durability of these? From what I know, they are supposed to be pretty high waisted, but I normally wear my pants to just an inch below my navel, a.k.a. belly button anyways.

 

[McFarlaneNYC]

Mose! Great comparisons! This is definitely a subject that remains open for debate!

Update on my Toyo repro Headlight jeans: color is indeed a bit more washed out after a hot wash and dry. Major shrinkage occurred to width and length. Both of which are welcome in this case! These were terrifically oversized, and I really loved the look apart from they sat slightly too high to wear to my job for my tastes (obviously making a statement with pants that sit higher than your navel) and the seat was so large that I thought it looked too sloppy on me. Now... they fit perfectly and I can wear em anywhere and everywhere! Pictures? I have no stinkin' pictures Thanks for convincing me, I just needed a push.

Just wondering, do you think you could give a ball park figure of the shrinkage? I just got a pair of repop 1920 201's and they are rather large in the waist and leg ( the only size on sale was 36'' 34'')

thanks
Charlie

 

[mike]

Just wondering, do you think you could give a ball park figure of the shrinkage? I just got a pair of repop 1920 201's and they are rather large in the waist and leg ( the only size on sale was 36'' 34'')

thanks
Charlie

On average, they suggest getting one size up, I wear a 34" waist and have purchased 36" lvc 1920 white tag jeans in the past. After one wash, they shrunk down to.. maybe 35" or so? I found the shrink in the length pretty major actually. I wore them for months oversized with suspenders and eventually washed them once. I now have thin wear lines on the exterior of the jeans in the front and back where the cuffs were once creased. No longer do they need to be cuffed! Or if so, just barely, whereas before I had a pretty significant cuff.

The Toyo/Headlight repros do not have a tagged size, but in my opinion a 2" shrink in all directions should approximately be correct. It's a frustrating issue. I don't like not washing my clothes. But I don't like possibly ruining intended details to painstakingly reproduced classic items. But in the end, you drop an entire open faced tuna melt sandwich on your lap and let it sit there for all afternoon in the sun.. well, what else is a guy to do [huh]

 

[McFarlaneNYC]

On average, they suggest getting one size up, I wear a 34" waist and have purchased 36" lvc 1920 white tag jeans in the past. After one wash, they shrunk down to.. maybe 35" or so? I found the shrink in the length pretty major actually. I wore them for months oversized with suspenders and eventually washed them once. I now have thin wear lines on the exterior of the jeans in the front and back where the cuffs were once creased. No longer do they need to be cuffed! Or if so, just barely, whereas before I had a pretty significant cuff.

The Toyo/Headlight repros do not have a tagged size, but in my opinion a 2" shrink in all directions should approximately be correct. It's a frustrating issue. I don't like not washing my clothes. But I don't like possibly ruining intended details to painstakingly reproduced classic items. But in the end, you drop an entire open faced tuna melt sandwich on your lap and let it sit there for all afternoon in the sun.. well, what else is a guy to do [huh]

Thanks Mike.
I ended up boiling them in water on the stove. the waist shrunk a nice amount, but the seat is still a little big, but it will do. As for the actual jeans I love them. They are very nicely done and the blue selvedge edge makes them for me. Then again they are my first pair of 'vintage' jeans .

Charlie

 

[Mr Badger]

the seat is still a little big, but it will do. As for the actual jeans I love them. They are very nicely done and the blue selvedge edge makes them for me.

Man, I was wearing my eight-year-old, much-loved pair of these repros a coupla days back and they're still killer. It is a shame that the butt area's so baggy! Wouldn't wanna get mistaken for some fashion victim! Are you doing braces, belt or both with 'em? I took the brace buttons off but regret it now... just cold wash 'em using 'travel wash' gel or 'wool wash' liquid and with wear they'll get a lovely drape & excellent wear down the front. Mine look really authentic now, and I don't miss the heavier denim...

 

[McFarlaneNYC]

Man, I was wearing my eight-year-old, much-loved pair of these repros a coupla days back and they're still killer. It is a shame that the butt area's so baggy! Wouldn't wanna get mistaken for some fashion victim! Are you doing braces, belt or both with 'em? I took the brace buttons off but regret it now... just cold wash 'em using 'travel wash' gel or 'wool wash' liquid and with wear they'll get a lovely drape & excellent wear down the front. Mine look really authentic now, and I don't miss the heavier denim...

Well since then I washed them in hot water and put them in the dryer. now they fit perfectly. I am wearing a belt right now, but I have considered using braces, since I have a my grandfathers brace collection.
Charlie

 

[cptjeff]

As I'm in the process of losing weight still, the only two jeans that currently fit me are the common Levi 550s (relaxed fit). Now they're starting to feel a bit loose. When I reach my weight target, I'm thinking about buying either a Wrangler cowboy-fit jean (I know it has a name, but I can't recall), or a classic Levi 501 jean. What are your experiences with those mentioned? Would you recommend one over the other? What is the overall durability of these? From what I know, they are supposed to be pretty high waisted, but I normally wear my pants to just an inch below my navel, a.k.a. belly button anyways.

13MWZ, aka Wrangler Cowboy cut. I find the denim is tougher then 501s (as it should be- that's the jean pro rodeo guys wear), and if you want raw, the wranglers won't shrink much as they're Sanforized, you order your true size. As for fit, Levis are inconsistent, and if you buy raw, unpredictable. And they just changed the fit recently, they screw around with it so they can keep the name and sell units, and then sell the old fits as ultra exclusive vintage fits for 3 times the price.

 

[Alexi]

13MWZ, aka Wrangler Cowboy cut. I find the denim is tougher then 501s (as it should be- that's the jean pro rodeo guys wear), and if you want raw, the wranglers won't shrink much as they're Sanforized, you order your true size. As for fit, Levis are inconsistent, and if you buy raw, unpredictable. And they just changed the fit recently, they screw around with it so they can keep the name and sell units, and then sell the old fits as ultra exclusive vintage fits for 3 times the price.

the wrangler PBR's are among my favorite jeans, not a fan of the new cut for the 501's.

 

[The Good]

the wrangler PBR's are among my favorite jeans, not a fan of the new cut for the 501's.

Wait, then the modern Levi 501s are not the same 501s that were common during the 1950s/60s? Just how different are they from their traditional, past predecessors? Anyway, it seems that I'm leaning towards Wranglers. Their 13MWZ cowboy-cut are accurate to the ones that first appeared in the 1940s, correct?

 

[Doug C]

Well since then I washed them in hot water and put them in the dryer. now they fit perfectly. I am wearing a belt right now, but I have considered using braces, since I have a my grandfathers brace collection.Charlie

Just a word regarding LVC jeans and the older (thinner) models in general includeing the 1920s 201... the suggestion to buy them larger than your waist size and expect them to shrink is generally bad advice. Oh, they will shrink a bit but hardly ever as much as suggested. But either way they WILL quickly restretch to about where they were before the soak or wash. Some say that it's a scheme by LVC to get customers to buy multiple pairs... and I'm not sure I don't agree with that. With that said though, LVC are about the only jeans I'll wear.. love 'em. And the 201's in particular rate as some of my favorites, they have great details.

 

[Goodguy]

13MWZ, aka Wrangler Cowboy cut. I find the denim is tougher then 501s (as it should be- that's the jean pro rodeo guys wear), and if you want raw, the wranglers won't shrink much as they're Sanforized, you order your true size. As for fit, Levis are inconsistent, and if you buy raw, unpredictable. And they just changed the fit recently, they screw around with it so they can keep the name and sell units, and then sell the old fits as ultra exclusive vintage fits for 3 times the price.

Wrangler Pro Rodeo are among my favorite jeans, well-constructed with rivets on the back pockets.

Levis are POSes.