Jeans

[Baron Kurtz]

It resembles most closely this jacket from 1961-'63:

But the D-stitching is closer to the handwarmer pockets like this jacket from 1970-'71. In fact, it is essentially this jacket, but with only one breast pocket.

bk

pics taken from http://www.vintagemotorcyclejackets.com/

 

[Edward]

Also, there's a Swedish company that sells prison denim in a 50's cut:

The Prison Blues brand is produced in the USA - and is indeed made by prisoners. The concept is to teach them a trade that they can make a living from once they leave prison, and apparently those who volunteer to work on the programme (paid - I presume regular prison wages) are markedly less likely to reoffend. The jeans are suppsoed to be cut to original 50s patterns ; I'm certainly no denim expert though the general look seems "right" to me. They are available widely in the US (inevitably for about half the price they are over this side of the Atlantic), though if you're looking a pair closer to home, the Ace Cafe www.ace-cafe-london.com have them at GBP50 the pair. That's where I first discovered them, and I intend to ty those out as my next denim purchase.

Over the past few years I've had two or three pairs of Levis. Compared to all my other jeans they do seem to wear more quickly between the legs, towards the top of the inner thigh. One pair back around 02 I got a year out of, more recently two pairs I bought a year ago are showing the first signs of wear. By comparison, the Marks and Spencer own brand jeans I bought around the same time are still going strong. When it comes to modern denim (vintage repro aside) it seems that there is no such thing as "get what you pay for" - there was a UK consumer survey (a Which?, I think) about eight years ago that discovered that the hardest wearing jeans across several pairs they considered was by George at Asda - well over and above brands like Levis at several times the price. Recently Asda have been selling jeans for GBP 3-6 a pair which are on a par with most High Street labels - the downside being that Asda seem to have a very poor attitude when it comes to the work conditions in the third world factories used by their suppliers (to the tune of "nothing we can do about it, mate").

 

[skbellis]

Prison Blues

The Prison Blues jeans are avaiable in the USA too.

https://secure.yoshidagroup.com/PrB..._id=1&osCsid=9b3fa61497e548645f9aabd8bf48ac31

I have seriously thinking about picking a pair up. The only reason I am reluctant to is because I am not sure how the fit is on these. I do like the fact that they are made in the US and seem a pretty durable, plus the suspender buttons are a nice touch.

---Scott

 

[Alan Eardley]

Baron,

This is not one I know! You are,a s you say, probably describing a jacket between '70 and '72.

Not all later jackets use the zig-zag denim.

'Rope' buttons and snaps have the 'Wrangler' script looking like a rope as in the neck tag. Some have what is intended to look like a brand in block script.

On the whole, from your description, I'd go for '70 or '71 and therefore vintage (although this seems like only yesterday to me...)

Well found! Wrangler are my favourite denim.

Alan

It resembles most closely this jacket from 1961-'63:

But the D-stitching is closer to the handwarmer pockets like this jacket from 1970-'71. In fact, it is essentially this jacket, but with only one breast pocket.

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Baron,

[. . .]

'Rope' buttons and snaps have the 'Wrangler' script looking like a rope as in the neck tag. Some have what is intended to look like a brand in block script.

[. . .]

Well found! Wrangler are my favourite denim.

Alan

Mine too!

As to the rope snap/buttons, yes i think that's what it's got. The Wrangler is in 'script' and its rope-properties are somewhat stylised and left to the imagination, but i think so. Again, i'll start a thread and we can assess the jacket.

The denim, i must say, is very different to modern. More similar to the Baroness's 50s jeans than anything i've yet come across.

bk

 

[Ying Ko]

For repro denim, there's: www.cultizm.com

This site carries Levi's, Lee and Wrangler repros, in addition to Japanese brands Sugar Cane and Nudie. The site also carries Red Wing boots and shoes.

For more Sugar Cane stuff, you can also try:

www.historypreservation.com

www.blueingreensoho.com (this site also offers free chain-stitching and a slew of Japanese denim brands)

Regarding the Sugar Cane brand, Sugar Cane claims the denim it uses on its Levi's "1947" copy is more historically accurate than the denim used by Levi's on its 1947 reissue. Any truth to this? Sugar Cane "1947" denim is a 14.25-ounce "coarse-weave" denim" while Levi's uses Cone Mills 12.5-ounce selvage denim.

Wondering....

 

[Alan Eardley]

As I understand it, LVC used to use Cone Mills as its weaver for the repro denim (as with the originals) and Cone Mills claims to have used some of the original narrow looms (most of them had gone to Japan).

I think the cotton was not grown in the same place the original and the dye was not quite the same, either, but what effect this has on the denim is hard to judge.

I have original 1940s Levis and LVC reproductions and they seem very close to me. It's worth pointing out that there was as much variety between brands in 1940s denim as there is today.

Alan

 

[Dinerman]

I got these at the ralph lauren outlet yesterday. Lightweight, airy denim. Very baggy cut, straight legs.
Button fly with mop buttons. watch pocket. Suspender buttons.
they've been slightly distressed, but not in the look cheesy- trendy type way.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Edwin 505

Edwin 505. Detailed pics to follow this weekend sometime.

bk

 

[Edward]

Thought it might be worth noting I've recently taken deliver of two pairs of Prison Blues - one the regular jeans, the other the work jeans with brace buttons. I'm wearing the latter as I type - very, very pleased with them. Ideally, I'd have preferred a button fly (they're zip), but that's no dealbreaker. o far superior to the ROTM Levis I just wore out after 12 months, it's untrue. We'll see how these go over time!

 

[Creeping Past]

Paddy

That was me in 1865 - the Wranglers were 1965. They were a Christmas present from a favourite aunt. I was wearing them at Bob Dylan's concert in Manchester in '66.

Alan

Just to get the complete picture, were you pro or anti-electric Dylan?

CP

 

[Feraud]

Does anyone own a pair of Prison Blues jeans?
Thoughts?

 

[MudInYerEye]

Don't buy them.
Carhartt dungarees are far better. Ben Davis makes good double-kneed, suspender buttoned logger jeans too.

 

[fishmeok]

Does anyone own a pair of Prison Blues jeans?
Thoughts?

I'm pretty happy with mine- they arrive stiff as a board but after a few washes they are soft and comfortable. Seem to be holding up well. MUCH better than the average jean, imho. and I like the cut. Figure on about .5-1" of shrinkage in the waist, and don't get the suspender buttons if you are not going to use them...


Cheers
Mark

 

[Edward]

Since I last posted on this thread, I have bought two pairs of Prison blues - one the regular jean, the other the 'carpenter' jean. I paid the extra £5 on the latter, to have the braces buttons fitted. I agree with the view expressed anbove, that if you aren't gonig to wear braces with them it's best not to have the buttons - they're traditional denim stud button types, and would really make it impractical to wear a belt with the trousers. Personally, I like the braces - makes a nice change from a belt (only miss the belt when I have the camera and would want to have the pouch for it on my belt).

I'm very happy with both pairs of mine, travelled as far afield as China in them and they hold up well. Very solid, very comfortable. I should expect to get some good wear out of them. After years of settling for jeans that didn't quite come high enough in the waist, these are a joy - high waisted by modern standards, sitting on the natural waist. Very nice shape in the legs - fitted to the apex of the buttock on me, then swoop down neatly from there. I have a great photo somewhere - I'll post it when I turn it up. If you're looking for a pair of hard-wearing jeans with an authentic 50s look for a greaser style outfit or old school style workwear, these are spot on.

I'd love to compare them against something like the Buzz Rickson denims, but it seems to me that anything else I can find that might match them is significantly more expensive, often double the price.

 

[Inky]

Hello Gents!

I am looking to buy my hubby a surprise gift for a recent job promotion. I know he's been coveting some 50's look/vintage/repro jeans to wear cuffed with his chuck's, but I am not sure what size to get him in length for the right "look."

He is 6'3" and his regular everyday jeans are 38x32. If he wants to wear them appropriately cuffed for the 50's look, what length should I order him?

Also, if I buy him 501 style Levi's that have to shrink to fit, then what waist/length should I buy?

And here I thought women's clothing was complicated!! Thanks for all your help in advance

 

[Burnsie]

He is 6'3" and his regular everyday jeans are 38x32. If he wants to wear them appropriately cuffed for the 50's look, what length should I order him?

If you buy repro vintage denim they shrink 2 inches in the waist and up to 4 inches in the inseam - if he normally wears 38X32 you'll want to buy him a pair of 40X38 shrink-to-fit repro's! I normally wear a 30 inch inseam and to single cuff I take 34 inch repro's and to double cuff is 36 inch...they shrink alot!

 

[Burnsie]

Vintage Repro denim from Aero

http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/webapp/aeroleather/servlet/AeroViewPage?page=home

If you don't mind shelling out some big bucks for the best repro's from Lee, Levi's and Wrangler...Aero Leather Co. stocks them all!
Otherwise haunt eBay - you'll get lucky pretty quickly...

 

[Inky]

If you buy repro vintage denim they shrink 2 inches in the waist and up to 4 inches in the inseam - if he normally wears 38X32 you'll want to buy him a pair of 40X38 shrink-to-fit repro's! I normally wear a 30 inch inseam and to single cuff I take 34 inch repro's and to double cuff is 36 inch...they shrink alot!

Thank you so much, Burnsie! Now I'm off to search for just the right pair - I hope he likes them

 

[Edward]

Re size, if you do end up looking at Prison Blues, they are labelled as being the size they will shrink down to.

Depending on how quickly a particular brand will shrink, it might be worth gonig up a size in the inseam above what will shrink to be his regular inseam measurement (if you follow me), so that they will always be long enough to get a good cuff.