Jackets for the smaller guy -- 5'7" tall and shorter

[PastimeSteve]

Please forgive me if this question has come up before. I tried a couple of searches and turned up nothing, but that could be due to user error!

I'm wondering if you guys can help me out. I'm 5'6" tall and about 155 pounds, and I live in Colorado. Store-bought jackets -- both leather and otherwise -- typically look too bulky on me, but I don't have the cash to buy a custom-tailored jacket right now.

So, I'm wondering if there are types of jackets, both vintage and modern, that might work better for a smaller-framed guy such as myself. Just looking for recommendations, because I trust the opinions on here. As I said, I don't like bulk in my jackets, even here in Colorado. Bulky jackets work better for larger men, but never look right on me.

Thanks for any recommendations!
Steve

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I'm not sure what you mean by "bulk". Do you mean they're too big?

I've never seen a style of jacket that, when it fits, does not work on a smaller man. (I am 5' 3" and about 120 lbs). Double breasted or single breasted, with whatever button configurations: they are all fine for smaller men.

You just need to get one that fits. You're probably wearing about a size 37, yes? Well, the store bought 36 jackets fit like about a 38-39. I would always advise people in the US, when buying OTR, to go a size or two smaller than they need in the chest. They are simply cut too big in the US OTR market. The chest is too roomy, the shoulders are too wide, and man o man do they like to cut - and, less explicable, to wear - jackets loooooonnnnngggg over there.

bk

 

[Todd V]

Forget small medium large and buy by chest size, which I'm guessing might be a 36. Typically men's small coats will be too large for a 36 but just right for a 38. Department stores usually sell a variety of new coats in even chest sizes.

 

[PastimeSteve]

Thanks guys. Baron - what I mean by "bulky" is the jackets gather and poof (sorry, can't think of a better word to use) out in the arms and shoulders. It makes me look like the Stay Puff Man.

Chest-wise, I'm actually between a 37 and 38.

Steve

 

[mimesis2nemesis]

I feel your pain. Only... My size is even harder to come by, being 5'4 and 110 lbs. Size 34 or 36 in some cases. For suits, you should try to get European cuts, as they tend to be shorter and leaner, specially in the arms and shoulders. Only setback is that they tend to look to "modern" (Although I've seen some of the Jazz suits from the 1920's that have a similar style, being really slim fitting). And as for Leather Jackets... I guess I could use some help too... :S

 

[Gromulus]

Try 5'7" and 220# (former competitive bodybuilder). I need a size 48-50 Short - very hard to find. Buying clothing is a real pain.

I also cannot afford the custom route but I see that Gibson & Barnes does offer short sizes up to size 50 chest. I am considering one of their leather jackets.

 

[Mr Vim]

Steve, hang in there, we share your frustration and the thing I learned early on with the more classic modes of dress is patience. You will be amazed what will roll along out of the blue.

Time heals all and finds you a good fitting jacket.

This has inspired me to write a thread for the gentleman of the slighter disposition, hey what a great title. Look for it over in the Observation bar gents!

 

[Sillyrib]

Find a good tailor who works with leather. I have short arms too for my chest size and my tailor makes all my clothes look custom fit! Usually costs between $35- $60 depending on the complexity. a good tailor can also take in the sides or shorten the length. Above all else, a good tailor will look at your body shape and take precise measurements and will make the jacket fit you not the other way around. Buy a high quality jacket used on ebay and take it to the tailor, thats what I do.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Well your hight was average height until recent times so any classic jacket pre 1965 (approx) will be cut to your frame. It's only since the 1980's-90's that jackets were cut in that "puffy" manner. You have advantages with A2's and other leathers, for instance, that most of us don't have.

 

[kojax]

my father is 5/7 130 pounds i just got him a a-2 horsehide jacket size 36-r from gibson barnes the jacket fits him well. gibson barnes jackets run big just a head up

 

[Todd V]

Steve,

Are there particular styles you are looking for? For example, you could browse eBay for a vintage size 38 real-deal peacoat which would be anything but puffy. A Filson Mackinaw cruiser in a 36 could fit you well. I could probably list out a few others depending on what you'd like to find.

Sorry to hijack this thread, but does anyone have experience with Lost World's size 34 and 36 leathers? I would love to have some measurements, if you do. I'm 5'4, 130lbs and typically a size 36. I have no experience with leathers so I have plenty of research ahead of me.

Thanks!
Todd Vanderbilt

 

[Daze]

Hi Bro

I feel your pain, admitrddly from the other end of the spectrum , your size seems to me to be what the perfect size in the UK would have been between 1850 and 1950

if you go to http://www.ebay.co.uk/ and look at vintage jackets, coats frockcoats 'whatever' , it's pretty much guaranteed you will find something that will fit , back in the days, us poor brits were skinny and short , as a clue i picked up a tailor made british army officers uniform in 38 chest, 33 waist, 27 inside leg, 24 arms for about what would be 50 dollars , by Gieves and Hawkes current cost I know to be in excess of 2k GBP , civilian suits and coats are cheap too ,and some of the the vintage stuff is very stylish ( a couple of friends of mine tells me this, one's a bit 'gay' and the other used to work in the 'trade ' Saville Row , St James st ) and the stuff i've managed to get hold of in my sizes tend to bear it out too .so british Ebay has a load of good things

 

[PastimeSteve]

Steve,

Are there particular styles you are looking for? For example, you could browse eBay for a vintage size 38 real-deal peacoat which would be anything but puffy. A Filson Mackinaw cruiser in a 36 could fit you well. I could probably list out a few others depending on what you'd like to find.
Thanks!
Todd Vanderbilt

Great information, thanks guys! Todd, I love the vintage leather look, but one thing I'm not crazy about the A2s is the gathered bottom and knit sleeve ends. So, I prefer open bottom and open sleeves. A while back -- pre-divorce (ugh) -- I did purchase a Gibson and Barnes Expedition in 38S. It was a beautiful jacket, but it was actually a tad too small for me, so I had to sell it and I took a loss on it. That was even after having a tailor do some professional pre-purchase measurements for me. I also remember wishing the G&B was a little bit longer in length; not much, but just a touch longer. In that case, if I was going to buy another Indy/adventurer style jacket, it would be more Temple of Doom style/length if that gives you guys an idea.

I'm going to keep looking for vintage stuff on ebay. Based on the above description, what type of vintage leather jacket would you guys recommend?

Thanks again for all of the fantastic information. I wish I could spend more time on here sometimes!

Steve

 

[Baron Kurtz]

pre-1950s vintage leather will run to about $350-$400, minimum, for a nice jacket. They are very collectable, in all sizes. Bad condition will reduce the price, but not by much.