Jacket (A-2, G-1) alterations?

[TXFlyGuy]

My new Cockpit Reissue A-2 is a great jacket, near perfect in every way except one...shoulder width. After some research, I have found a couple well respected tailors (leather) who claim that removing 1.5" to 2.0" from the shoulder is not a big deal. They also said it would cause the sleeve to ride about an inch higher, which is actually a good thing. The epaulets will be shortened also. The jacket will go in for overhaul next week. It still has the manufacturers tags attached as it has not been worn.

I absolutely love this jacket, and the objective is to get that classic 1942 military fit.

The price as quoted is very reasonable. Just wonder how many of you have had something similar done on your A-2, or G-1? And if you were happy with the results.

 

[El Marro]

I recently had my tailor take in an A-2 for me and I'm very happy with the result. This is an A-2 I bought on sale from Diamond Dave last summer and it was just too loose, particularly at the waist. The jacket had originally been made for another customer, so I was happy to get one that kind of fit for a good price. Initially I brought the jacket in thinking that the tailor would replace the waistband and maybe slim things down a little bit at the bottom. Upon seeing the jacket though, he recommended that we start at the armpits and taper down from there. I believe he also slimed the arms a bit as well.
I had my doubts and second thoughts while I was waiting for the jacket to be completed, after all it had fit fine before, just a bit loose and baggy. I was worried that my meddling might leave me with a jacket that ended up not fitting at all! My worries were unfounded, and I am so happy to have a jacket that fits me comfortably and yet is nice and trim.
I think you should go for it TXFlyGuy.

 

[TXFlyGuy]

El Marro - Thanks for sharing your experience. I'm glad that it was positive. Alan at JL Leather was one of the people contacted. But I am lucky enough to have found a very good leather tailor in the North Texas area.
Just hope my results are as good as yours!

 

[Seb Lucas]

Risky work - show us the result.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I absolutely love this jacket, and the objective is to get that classic 1942 military fit.
.

Good luck but I suspect the only way to get 1942 fit is with a 1942 pattern. Fix the shoulders then you'll notice the arm hole width/hight and sleeve width being wrong. Then the taper of the torso. Etc...

 

[TXFlyGuy]

Risky work - show us the result.

Alan (JL Leathers) said it was entirely doable. The only thing he mentioned was the sleeve would ride about 3/4" higher. This will actually improve the overall fit. The rest of the jacket is spot on for what I'm looking for.

Should have said..."A fit that will look good on my 5' 11", 170lb frame."

Sure, I'll post the results.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Well, Alan's a good guy he's made me three jackets. How much will this customisation add to the cost of the jacket?

 

[TXFlyGuy]

Well, Alan's a good guy he's made me three jackets. How much will this customisation add to the cost of the jacket?

If I ship it to California, $220. Locally in Dallas, $70.

 

[Brettafett]

For those in the UK, I was forwarded some interesting info.
www.horizondesigns.co.uk/home.html
I was referred to Donna by the guys at Eastman Leather. She used to work for Cirrus, making jackets. She does alterations, renovations and can make up jackets (G-1s, A-2s, Irvins etc) according to your spec. Apparently her G-1 patterns are patterned off an original (not sure which one). So complete customisation options.
donna.horizondesigns@gmail.com

 

[bn1966]

Wested I've used successfully & Byson I've spoken to (appear to really know their business) for those in the UK. Have also had some good results with Cobra Leather ((Swindon).

 

[TXFlyGuy]

I just dropped off my A-2 with Don at Minsky Tailor Shop in Dallas. He has been doing leather custom alterations for over 3 decades. Don came highly recommended...hope he does good!

Here is a before photo:

 

[TXFlyGuy]

You can see that other than the shoulders, the fit is pretty good. The shoulders do droop a bit, so will have two inches removed. That will also have the effect of shortening the sleeve by one inch.

 

[bn1966]

Should be a Win / Win .... Fingers crossed, let us know how it turns out

 

[TXFlyGuy]

Just got to thinking...can two inches be removed from the shoulder without affecting the chest or pit-to-pit fitting? The Cockpit Reissue A-2 is a good fit everywhere, except the shoulder. If the chest were smaller, I would not be able to use the jacket.

Any thoughts? Yes, I will ask the tailor tomorrow.

 

[El Marro]

Did the tailor get a chance to see the jacket with you in it? If so I think he probably has a good idea what needs to be done to improve the fit in the shoulders without making it too tight through the chest.
It never hurts to call and make sure though!

 

[TXFlyGuy]

Did the tailor get a chance to see the jacket with you in it? If so I think he probably has a good idea what needs to be done to improve the fit in the shoulders without making it too tight through the chest.
It never hurts to call and make sure though!

Yes, he had me put the jacket on, and zip it up all the way. So he knows what it looks like. He then took chalk and drew a line around the armpit from the top of the shoulder. It would be about an inch removed. But as I think about it, that would remove two inches from the pit to pit measurement, making the jacket too small.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Enjoy the jacket for what it is. If you want a more period style fit, I reckon you either shell out the dollars or buy a Morgan A2.

 

[Technonut]

I had a similar dilemma with an A-2, and sent it to Steve Sellers (Greatest Generation Clothing Co.) to evaluate. Steve is an excellent craftsman. His work can be seen scattered throughout this forum, and is known for attention to detail. Upon looking the jacket over, Steve just could not guarantee it would turn out well, and declined the job. I respected his experience, and went another route..

Personally, since the Cockpit is new, if I wasn't satisfied with the fit and wanted a more accurate period look, the jacket would be promptly sent back for a refund. I would take the refund, and look into something else. The Morgan Productions A-2 is difficult to purchase in the States, but can be obtained though a Japanese buying service such as 'Buyee' http://media.buyee.jp/campaign/rakuten170206/en/ There's always coupons floating around to use for discounts. Here's a direct link to a horsehide Morgan which shouldn't be much over $400.00 USD (using found coupons for the buying service): http://buyee.jp/rakuten/detail/auc-swat:10000815 The largest size available is 44 however.. If you are truly interested, I can post measurements of my size 44.

I was fortunate to purchase mine directly from Linda Morgan here in the States. She doesn't actively sell them on her site, http://www.memphis-belle.com/ but did still have a size 44 and 46 available. You can contact her and check. She offered the new with tags size 44 to me for under $300.00 shipped, which considering the fairly accurate pattern, details, and nice horsehide used, was one helluva bargain...

The only other two A-2's I can think of with what looks to be fairly accurate patterns / details at 'reasonable' prices are:

http://www.smwholesaleusa.com/ww2-us/army-air-corps

http://www.buckstarrlegends.com/shop/vhhbdrmskobu4jswzotyap08zooepf

You seem to have an aversion towards 'used 2nd-hand' jackets, but I still say one's best bet for the absolute best 'bang-for-the-buck' is a previously-owned Good Wear. They come up on eBay fairly often, and folks generally take damn good care of them.. The one's I've purchased have been in like-new condition at half the price of a new one or better, and no two year wait. Just be sure to double-check measurements with the seller, and visit JC's site to look over pics of the same contract. In fact, I have this one in Shinki horsehide on the way to me as I type (click to enlarge):



EDIT: Off-topic, but since Linda Morgan (Wife of the late Col. Robert K. Morgan, pilot of the 'Memphis Belle') was mentioned... Interestingly, She is an accomplished pilot, and member of an elite group of female pilots founded by Amelia Earhart. Here, Mrs. Morgan recently gets 10 minutes of 'stick time' with a B-17: http://www.waaytv.com/redstone_alab...cle_9f0630ae-a22d-11e6-b331-d30106d5ce99.html

 

[El Marro]

Yes, he had me put the jacket on, and zip it up all the way. So he knows what it looks like. He then took chalk and drew a line around the armpit from the top of the shoulder. It would be about an inch removed. But as I think about it, that would remove two inches from the pit to pit measurement, making the jacket too small.

It seems to me he should be able to remove width from the shoulder without disturbing the chest díameter. On the other hand, I can't draw a straight line, much less sew one! As you said earlier, this definitely warrants a phone call to make sure you guys are on the same page.

 

[TXFlyGuy]

It seems to me he should be able to remove width from the shoulder without disturbing the chest díameter. On the other hand, I can't draw a straight line, much less sew one! As you said earlier, this definitely warrants a phone call to make sure you guys are on the same page.

Just called the tailor. Don assured me that altering the shoulder will not impact the chest measurement.