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Is this tie too formal for everyday wear?

Brummagem Joe

Familiar Face
Messages
78
Location
CT, USA
Carlisle Blues said:
I do not think so; the following would most likely shed some light on this Chaille, François (1994). The Book Of Ties. Paris: Flammarion. (see Gary Cooper p. 119). ISBN 2080135686.

Further it appears that Mr. Jean-Claude Colban of Charvet fashioned the Lounge tie design after Cooper's tie.

......We're picking pepper out of fly poop here of course because the gingham pattern is exactly the same as the SC pattern but "gingham" is a cotton based fabric(see dicdef below) that carries this pattern and clearly Cooper's tie is made of a fine silk twill that's been printed with a shepherds check pattern precisely as described in the tie/shirt guide I quoted above. I have about five ties in exactly this fabric including one that looks just like Coopers in this pic which is why I bought it about 20 years ago

"Gingham is a medium-weight balanced plain-woven fabric made from dyed cotton or cotton-blend yarn."
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
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18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California

Carlisle Blues

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,154
Location
Beautiful Horse Country
This is the alleged story of both ties:

"From the early days of thelondonlounge, many members have asked about creating a club tie. The idea raised numerous issues for me. Club ties always tend to be regimentals. I never saw thelondonlounge being imaged in such a design. The club tie of the londonlounge would need a more elegant, more personal design. And once the design was found, a maker of sufficient talent and quality would have to be found to make it.

One day it occurred to me that the photo below of Gary Cooper, full of the kind of presence and magnetism that Elegance emanates, had become emblematic of thelondonlounge. It is simple, harmonious, understated and masculine. In effect, each and every element of dress in this picture represents these fundamental qualities. And among these elements was a beautiful necktie. But what was the pattern, how was it constructed?

In my mind there was only one expert who could resolve these issues, so I asked the established authority on the subject of neckwear, Mr. Jean-Claude Colban of Charvet to help. The magnetism of the photo must have had an effect on Mr. Colban as well and he agreed to search through Charvet’s archives to trace the design in question.

A few weeks later I was invited to Charvet to see a selection of cuttings. Just walking into Mr. Colban’s office and workroom is an experience that one would want to share with every member of the club. Suffice it to say that it as tastefully set out as the man himself. Three beautiful woven silk patterns had been selected. Each of them had qualities but one stood out and was judged to be the closest to the model in the Cooper picture.

It is a faux pois design in heavy woven silk, light grey on a black background. To my delight the hand of the silk is rich, dense and superb in every way. The londonlounge club tie would be crafted from this beautiful silk with the quality that Charvet is capable of delivering

I hope the members will forgive the rudimentary photography. In the first picture the lighting is such that the black background is quite present. In the second photo, the light brings out the light to mid-grey. Like a “pic and pic” suiting this pattern has a dual effect. In low light it appears darker, it brightens with the light. If you wear it in the evening, it will be very discrete. During the day and with the light, its personality comes out.

The londonlounge club tie is now a reality and it is available from Charvet. To order the tie, please write to info@charvet.tm.fr and request thelondonlounge club tie, design #1135, color #1. The cost is 110 euros. Details for ordering the club tie will be provided by email. The tie as shown is 56 " long and 3.25" wide. The lining is light to compliment the generously heavy silk of the tie. The knot in the picture is a four-in-hand.

Of course, my most sincere thanks goes out to Monsieur Colban who generously donated of his time to research and recreate this necktie on behalf of thelondonlounge and its members. It goes without saying that his participation in this project does great honor to our assembly and its purpose."

All that matters to me is that I like them both. I see a particular pattern in Coopers tie. I am opened minded in learning what the the true design is. For the ambitious the email is included in this post.
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
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18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
Carlisle Blues said:
"Three beautiful woven silk patterns had been selected. Each of them had qualities but one stood out and was judged to be the closest to the model in the Cooper picture."

My hunch is that one or two of those "three beautiful woven silk patterns" was a gingham and/or a shepherd's check.


True, they judged the third one to be closest to the model in the Cooper picture...but that doesn't necessarily mean they judged rightly. Who really knows?



.
 

Brummagem Joe

Familiar Face
Messages
78
Location
CT, USA
Marc Chevalier said:
I have a semi-iridescent woven rayon gingham tie from the '30s, and have seen versions in taffeta, shantung and Dupioni silk.


See the top tie (by Kenneth Cole) here: http://www.seejackshop.com/archive/gingham-ties-top-five/

And here: http://query.nytimes.com/gst/abstract.html?res=9E02E5D7133FE433A2575BC1A9679C946996D6CF





.

.....We're splitting hairs, or maybe definitions, as I said, but to me gingham has alway been a cotton fabric so that if I went into a store and bought a gingham tie, I wouldn't expect to get a silk tie, I'd expect to get a cotton or cotton mixture summer sort of tie in the gingham pattern....in fact I've got a few.....Coop on the other hand is wearing a classic silk woven shepherd's check.....they have a slight sheen on them which comes from the twill weave of the silk which you can sort of pick up from your enlarged pic......in the grey and black I have one in this smaller pattern he's wearing and one in the larger pattern someone else illustrated although neither came from Charvet.....both came from Jermyn St, probably Hilditch and Key because I like the bit of padding that gives you a nicer knot.......anyway gingham or shepherds check they look great with a grey striped or flannel suit.
 

Lear

One of the Regulars
Messages
264
Location
UK
In my communications with Charvet, I'll provide them with correct length, taken from my only other tie (MTO). The length is perfect for a windsor knot, so no need for discussion there. However, when it came to width on this current tie, I simply followed advice from the Loro Piana salesman. Can I assume then, that I simply need to give Charvet the widest part of this Loro Piana tie?

Or

Should I reconsider the width of the tie according to my height, shoulder width and shape of face? I'm 6'2", take a 48 long jacket and spend time with free-weights. Also, large head and square jaw. I've heard that all of these considerations should be taken into account when considering tie width. I'd also like it to be of a timeless size. Not something that follows a trend. Any suggestions on width would be appreciated. Also, bear in mind that it'll be a seven-fold. The description of the fabric is that it's quite hefty.

I'm probably the only FL member with just one tie :eek:
 

redavis001

One of the Regulars
Messages
101
Location
Beautiful Norman Oklahoma
I once had a woman where I work comment that my tie seemed like the sort of thing that one would wear to a club and not to work. I looked at her and stated, "well, at least I wear a tie which is more than I could say for most people around here." She looked at the floor sheepishly and said, "yes that's true" I promptly walked away. Never again did we discuss the matter.
 

MarcusB

Familiar Face
Messages
99
Location
Hastings, United Kingdom
oh no, not too formal at all! :). This shirt and tie I'm wearing here is however an example of formal everyday wear in my opinion, as a result I dress like this outside of work :).

DSCF5786cropped.jpg
 

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