Inspiration.

[herringbonekid]

hmm, an early 20s narrow wrap DB would look rather conservative against that line up.

that shouldn't influence Barmey's decision on what to make though.

 

[KILO NOVEMBER]

I looked at the 2013 winners: everything was over the top, nothing was a straightforward suit:

I think this was a runner-up


No, wait! That was a clown from Ringling Bros. Barnum & Bailey Circus.

 

[Two Types]

hmm, an early 20s narrow wrap DB would look rather conservative against that line up.

that shouldn't influence Barmey's decision on what to make though.

Agreed, but conservative has to be better than vulgar. Also, with the right fabric it might not appear quite so out of place.

One of the suits from last year (on the left of the photo) is described as having a blue jacket but with a navy blue waistcoat in a different cloth. It's difficult to tell from the photo, but it isn't a choice I would be comfortable with.

 

[Gin&Tonics]

The third picture in that set of three would look outstanding on a woman...someone should have told the tailor this is a menswear contest.

I'm fascinated by that bespoke in Brooklyn tailor's entry, Although it's a bit over the top for me, it's not so much so as to be in the realm of absurdity, and you can tell by looking at the details on his morning coat (note the high and tight armsyces!) that he knows his stuff. I also note that there is a frock coat and a classic tailcoat hanging on the wall behind him in the first photo!

It sounds like my frock suit idea isn't so far off.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

That model is a woman. The breasts are just a bit of a giveaway! I think last year's winner was female? At least one recent winner was.

Also, I don't think it's a menswear competition, but a tailoring competition. All the same methods and techniques go into women's bespoke tailoring as go into men's.

 

[Two Types]

The top three were all women in 2013.

 

[Gin&Tonics]

That model is a woman. The breasts are just a bit of a giveaway!

The face and build are so masculine that I thought it was a man in drag. I interpreted the breasts as a guy with a big chest and the tailor cinching the waist extra tight on the jacket to create that illusion. Even knowing it's a woman I find the face very, very masculine O_O;

 

[Barmey]

Thank you everyone for the help and suggestions

I can only hope the model I'm dresssing is a perfect 40 regular. Maybe I'll size the pattern down slightly. Call it slim fit.... When the competition started back in the 70s the tailors would make their peice to fit either themselves or a freind. Very annoyed they changed the rules on that one.

I'm also hoping that the model has a decent short back and sides and not girly shoulder length hair.

I do like the idea of nice window pane flannel. I've considered using the same French homespun tweed HBK used for his Jazz Norfolk suit. Maybe I'll get some points for antique cloth hahaha

Here is my intial drawing.



Barmey

 

[herringbonekid]

' Jazz Norfolk ' ? i didn't even realise i'd invented a new style.

Barmey, maybe you should make a suit that isn't something you want to wear yourself, as it will be torture not to be able to wear it with it being too big a size.

i especially wouldn't use rare vintage cloth on something you won't be able to wear.

 

[Two Types]

maybe you should make a suit that isn't something you want to wear yourself, as it will be torture not to be able to wear it with it being too big a size.

But maybe they'll be someone on here who'll be just desperate to buy it off you.

P.S. I love those deep pockets (that look like an upturned cowbell).

 

[simonc]

Barmey for what its worth, this is a "competition", so consider the judges, and the year in which we live, both factors are important to you winning weather you like it or not. I'm not saying not to go for it, but these judges are far more conservative and older than you. So rather than polaxing them with the above full-on design, by throwing everything you've got at them, which you have done, which is normal, the hardest thing is in fact not to, it is as Goethe says to "keep one eye on yourself and one eye on your audience" when you perform, it shows control, maturity and depth. I hope this helps.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Looking at the previous winners I think it is not all off. I always found this style rather feminine so this might actually work in your favour. It might be helpful to give the Jury some modern reference points- like HBK suggested with the windowpane bespoke crowd. Or maybe make it a boating blazer with ribbon trims. Just something that is recognizable. It's not crazier in the silhouette than say Thom Browne.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Just to note 2013's judges: Not exactly the most wild and out-there bunch. (Bloody Nick Hewer and Raymond Blanc? You could get more conservative if you threw Peter Tapsell in there, I guess.) I guess what we need to remember is that essentially this seems to be a fashion show rather than a tailoring/style show. A fashion show with an extra level of judging the skills that went into the creations.

2013 judges: Lloyd Johnson, Hilary Alexander, Raymond Blanc, Joanna Lumley and Nick Hewer.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I think the Lyod Johnson guy looks cool in his tweed suit and club collar shirt. I don't think it matters how they dress themselves though.

 

[simonc]

Barmey here it is

 

[Barmey]

Anthony Eden was an excellent dresser but will it be interesting enough for the judges. The cloth looks great though. Those bold stripes look the nuts!

 

[GBR]

How is this suit going? When is the judging, it will be good to see the finished garment and the detailing you have picked?

 

[Barmey]

How is this suit going? When is the judging, it will be good to see the finished garment and the detailing you have picked?

The finished suit has to be ready for Christmas time. It's still at the drawing and cloth sourcing stage at the moment. I'm making a sample up of my design in some heavy weight grey flannel to fit me! I'll photograph it next week when I should have ready as a foward fitting. I'm pretty happy with it so far

 

[Two Types]

What's happening about the cloth? Did you speak to your contact about the Fox fabric? (as discussed, we could head down there if you can arrange things)

 

[Two Types]

This is the sort of cloth/colour I would recommend:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?13274-What-are-you-wearing-today/page2169