<<< incoming from Good Wear >>>

[Brandrea33]

Hello folks,

I thought I’d share my new Good Wear Hercules jacket with you all.

Many of you already know that John is just such a pleasure to work with. He took a lot of time to speak to me about this pattern, and how he has learned to perfect it over time.

What drew me to Good Wear was knowing that John actually makes the jackets. He makes the pattern, cuts the leather, and sews them together one by one in his own small shop. I love just love that and I’m happy support him.

He’s like taking to an encyclopedia (for those of you too young to know what that is, think Google in print), and has just a vast knowledge about the history of the jackets he makes along with a real passion for how they were constructed.

After discussing things, I landed on this build:

Italian dark seal HH
Sunback rayon/ cotton lining
M-42 talon zipper with vintage slider
vintage talon pull chain chest zipper
corozo buttons from Japan
adjustable corduroy collar
vintage repo Hercules and Roughwear labels

I’m not one to obsess over laser straight stitching, or such things. To my eye, the jacket is beautifully hand crafted and if there are any imperfections they are part and parcel of a handcrafted item and only add to its character.

John was kind enough to send me loads of pictures as it was being built and I promised him that I would not divulge them anywhere. They are much appreciated and will follow with the jacket in a printed booklet, to hand down to my son some day.

Sorry, about my photography skills and the stack of laundry. Thanks for reading.

 

[handymike]

Boom, baby!!!!!!
Congratulations!

 

[Brandrea33]

Boom, baby!!!!!!
Congratulations!

Thanks a-lot Mike

 

[Marc mndt]

That's just perfect all the way. Congrats.

 

[Brandrea33]

That's just perfect all the way. Congrats.

Thank you Marc.

I’m still learning a lot about what I like and what doesn’t work very well for me. One thing I’ve learned is that I like slightly easier wearing leather Hide. This one is about 1mm thick, and very easy to move around in, which I like in my older age lol.

 

[Aloysius]

A triumph of a jacket.

 

[ton312]

LOVE IT! That liner looks beautiful too!

 

[Tom71]

Perfection, Brian! Now it all makes sense…

 

[Marc mndt]

One thing I’ve learned is that I like slightly easier wearing leather Hide. This one is about 1mm thick, and very easy to move around in, which I like in my older age lol.

I get that. Thin doesn't equal flimsy as long as the hide has some density to it. This Italian hh looks beautiful. Is it Vicenza?

 

[photo2u]

Love the quality of the build. The fit is right. You did well!

 

[Brandrea33]

A triumph of a jacket.

Thank you! I have a couple I’ll be selling here soon because of this lol.

 

[Brandrea33]

LOVE IT! That liner looks beautiful too!

Thanks very much. John described it as having a cotton backing adding durability to the fabric. Not sure if any one here knows more about that. It sure feels great and helps the jacket slip on and off with ease.

 

[Brandrea33]

Perfection, Brian! Now it all makes sense…

Thank you my friend. Appreciate the kind words.
Now looking Forward to jacket weather sooner than later!

 

[Brandrea33]

I get that. Thin doesn't equal flimsy as long as the hide has some density to it. This Italian hh looks beautiful. Is it Vicenza?

Hmmm, he didn’t say. He said it’s Italian Dark Seal, and he colors it himself. Would that makes sense?

 

[Brandrea33]

Love the quality of the build. The fit is right. You did well!

Thank you very much. I like a roomier fit for layering.
John commented that if a pattern is done right the wearer should be able to size up and the jacket will still look good. That’s sort of what I did here.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

Hello folks,

I thought I’d share my new Good Wear Hercules jacket with you all.

Many of you already know that John is just such a pleasure to work with. He took a lot of time to speak to me about this pattern, and how he has learned to perfect it over time.

What drew me to Good Wear was knowing that John actually makes the jackets. He makes the pattern, cuts the leather, and sews them together one by one in his own small shop. I love just love that and I’m happy support him.

He’s like taking to an encyclopedia (for those of you too young to know what that is, think Google in print), and has just a vast knowledge about the history of the jackets he makes along with a real passion for how they were constructed.

After discussing things, I landed on this build:

Italian dark seal HH
Sunback rayon/ cotton lining
M-42 talon zipper with vintage slider
vintage talon pull chain chest zipper
corozo buttons from Japan
adjustable corduroy collar
vintage repo Hercules and Roughwear labels

I’m not one to obsess over laser straight stitching, or such things. To my eye, the jacket is beautifully hand crafted and if there are any imperfections they are part and parcel of a handcrafted item and only add to its character.

John was kind enough to send me loads of pictures as it was being built and I promised him that I would not divulge them anywhere. They are much appreciated and will follow with the jacket in a printed booklet, to hand down to my son some day.

Sorry, about my photography skills and the stack of laundry. Thanks for reading.

View attachment 526950 View attachment 526951 View attachment 526952 View attachment 526953 View attachment 526954

The French seams with contrasting stitching throughout are just magic.
This model in particular has symmetry that highlights the beauty of French seams like no other.
Truly a pinnacle jacket and work of art at every level!!
B

 

[Aloysius]

Hmmm, he didn’t say. He said it’s Italian Dark Seal, and he colors it himself. Would that makes sense?

Could be a lighter or undyed Vicenza that he dyes himself.

Vicenza as currently used by Aero was picked/commissioned by Thurston and Good Wear, IIRC. (Himel might have been one of the buyers too, but I don't recall.)

 

[photo2u]

Thank you very much. I like a roomier fit for layering.
John commented that if a pattern is done right the wearer should be able to size up and the jacket will still look good. That’s sort of what I did here.

Totally agree with this principle. When I purchase a jacket, I always picture wearing a second layer. One of my favorite jacket cuts is the Car Coat. They are very functional and practical. They wear nice dress up or when riding a bike. Car coats were popular in the '30s. To this date, they still make a solid jacket designs.

 

[Brandrea33]

The French seams with contrasting stitching throughout are just magic.
This model in particular has symmetry that highlights the beauty of French seams like no other.
Truly a pinnacle jacket and work of art at every level!!
B

Thank you, so much they really are fantastic. I was surprised to see he uses them on the back of the sleeves as well.

 

[Brandrea33]

Could be a lighter or undyed Vicenza that he dyes himself.

Vicenza as currently used by Aero was picked/commissioned by Thurston and Good Wear, IIRC. (Himel might have been one of the buyers too, but I don't recall.)

Thank you for that! I’ll reach out to John and see if he can clarify.