In what era were vest popular for men?

[Shangas]

I personally think that the decline of the vest was a result of war-rationing, and improved heating.

For most of history, if it was cold outside, it was also cold inside. Buildings had little insulation or heating (unless you count fireplaces). And often, it was colder inside than it was outside. So wearing a three-piece suit, or a vested two-piecer, was essential to keeping warm.

As things like central heating improved, waistcoats became less and less common as they provided an extra layer of warmth which wasn't, strictly speaking, required anymore.

 

[Hal]

The waistcoat died out in the 1950s and 60s. It had a brief revival in the 70s and 80s, but never really returned to the prominence that it once had.

In the UK 1950s were the period of the big decline; there was a brief revival in the 60s also, but your final statement is quite right.

I personally think that the decline of the vest was a result of war-rationing, and improved heating.

I'm sure that these are indeed the causes of the decline, but wouldn't many of us on these fora agree that modern interior heating is often excessive? For me, if it's too warm to wear a three-piece suit indoors, the heating is too high. Also, at least since the 1960s, there has been a pervasive idea that wearing less clothing, fewer layers, is more comfortable.

 

[Cochese]

In the UK 1950s were the period of the big decline; there was a brief revival in the 60s also, but your final statement is quite right.
I'm sure that these are indeed the causes of the decline, but wouldn't many of us on these fora agree that modern interior heating is often excessive? For me, if it's too warm to wear a three-piece suit indoors, the heating is too high. Also, at least since the 1960s, there has been a pervasive idea that wearing less clothing, fewer layers, is more comfortable.

Never is that more apparent than in a department store. It's almost as if they are trying to smoke you out.

 

[Shangas]

In the UK 1950s were the period of the big decline; there was a brief revival in the 60s also, but your final statement is quite right.
I'm sure that these are indeed the causes of the decline, but wouldn't many of us on these fora agree that modern interior heating is often excessive? For me, if it's too warm to wear a three-piece suit indoors, the heating is too high. Also, at least since the 1960s, there has been a pervasive idea that wearing less clothing, fewer layers, is more comfortable.

Hi Hal,

The whole heating thing can be pretty annoying. And then I've seen such extremes of clothing that it just baffles me.

When I was in university, I used to move around the campus in winter with my trenchcoat to keep me warm. And I saw guys moving around with just a singlet and shorts and flip-flops and I was like...how are they not FREEZING to death? I don't get it. Maybe they're Russians or something...

 

[John in Covina]

It is kind of strange to see the number of people here that simply live in shorts. The weathr can have gone down to the 40's and they're not even phased by it. For me coming from NY, I was cold weather acclimated fo many years but now I have "thin Blood" from the warm wearthr here so some of the cooler temps seem distinctly chilly now.

 

[Dick Ireland]

I've looked through a lot of Esquire and Apparel Arts prints from the 1930s and it looks like even before the war, American men would go without a vest during the summer and with "semi-sport" suits, whereas European men were not this relaxed and always wore waistcoats.

Is there any basis for that, or am I off my rocker?

 

[Fastuni]

American men would go without a vest during the summer and with "semi-sport" suits, whereas European men were not this relaxed and always wore waistcoats.

Is there any basis for that, or am I off my rocker?

European men's fashion also did often away with the vest/waistcoat for less formal (leisure/sports/casual etc.) suits, particularly for summer. Already in the 1920's. If warmth was required, knitwear was a popular alternative. Also street suits in "conservative" pinstripes etc. often lacked the waistcoat.

 

[splintercellsz]

A waistcoat in the summer would be way to hot, especially in the hotter areas of the States, unless it is made out of a summer weight fabric. I do own a 1936 Summer Weight 3 piece, which feels to be made out of linen. It was made by Callaghan G.B. Shaw, W.1. for the fist U.S. Ambassador to the Soviet Union.

It is comfortable up to 95°F, but any hotter (or no cooling wind), and the waistcoat would have to stay at home.

(For kicks, here is the suit)

 

[Baron Kurtz]

W1, mate, not WL. the "1" was added in 1917 as an aid for delivery men. Before that it was just "W".

Now the postcodes are in the form W1S, W1T, etc etc.

Maddox St, btw, that's solidly a Savile Row suit.

 

[splintercellsz]

:eusa_doh: Man, my eyes are screwy sometimes. Thank's Baron! I have not heard of Savile Row, but I guess it is research time!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

There's the great scene in Double Indemnity when Edward G Robinson stomps into his bosses office without a jacket, and the boss is shocked, and I mean stunned:

"Is it a particularly warm day, Mr …"

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Hmmm, yeah, might be instructive …

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Savile_Row

Thank's Baron! I have not heard of Savile Row, but I guess it is research time!

 

[splintercellsz]

Quite the history!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Yes, tailors to the great and good (that is to say: rich … who knows how great and good they were/are?).

the mystique of "Savile Row" is generally accepted to extend to the streets abounding it - like Maddox Street. That is a damn high quality suit, that would cost in the region of £3000-6000 to have made for you today.

 

[Dick Ireland]

European men's fashion also did often away with the vest/waistcoat for less formal (leisure/sports/casual etc.) suits, particularly for summer. Already in the 1920's. If warmth was required, knitwear was a popular alternative. Also street suits in "conservative" pinstripes etc. often lacked the waistcoat.

Really? I had no idea that Europeans did that, too. I guess my idea of what they did is informed by Britain's "1%" of the day, which probably did things a little more strictly.

I just figured the climate/social differences made the pond a big separater of dress mores.