Ideal Shoulder Width?

[jpk_NJ]

What's the ideal shoulder fit? From the should bone to bone point or the outside of the shoulder muscle itself??

 

[bretron]

Maybe I'm overthinking it, but I'd say far end to far end, straight across. If you measure from shoulder bone tips you're gonna be at least 2" short, no?. Some tailors measure around your shoulders instead.

 

[Carlos840]

I think that estimating your ideal shoulder width by measuring your shoulders is pretty hard if not impossible!
It really depends on the style/cut of the jacket and the way the sleeves are joined with the jacket.
The lining also adds to the necessary width if it is thick!

My jackets go from 19" to 21"

19" is tight an can only be worn with a T shirt, 19.5" is perfect if the lining is a thin cotton one. 20" is perfect on my Lewis Leathers, but the lining is very thick, and my Schott has 21", it still fits great without droopy shoulders, it's just a different cut.

I think the only way to really figure it out is to measure a jacket that fits you the way you like.

 

[nick123]

I think it will depend on the cut of the jacket. My Johnson motorcycle had a shoulder measurement across much larger than you'd think a size 40 would be, but somehow it worked.
If I had looked at the numerical measurements before trying on the jacket, I would have mistakingly sized down.
I've concluded the only important number is to know what measurement you can't go smaller than. In my case it's 18" across the shoulders.

 

[Persimmon]

A related conversation is going on at Flightjackets forum at the moment

Platon from Bill Kelso is offering some interesting advice, pictures and website info
http://vintageleatherjackets.org/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=15473&start=40

Scroll to the bottom of that page

Alan

 

[Smithy]

What's the ideal shoulder fit? From the should bone to bone point or the outside of the shoulder muscle itself??

I tend to measure from the end of the outside shoulder itself, which has worked for me in the past.

If you work out (or swim, etc) you'll find that your middle deltoid can add an extra inch or more from the shoulder bone to shoulder bone length.

Just my 2c worth but it's generally worked for me.

 

[jpk_NJ]

Got it. That's what I've been doing, factoring in the delts since I've been rowing. Just wanted to make sure I was getting a neat of fit as possible. THanks

 

[Seb Lucas]

Best way is to measure a jacket that fits well rather than your actual shoulders. But the reality is that depending on how a jacket is cut various widths will work. I can wear anything from 18.5 to 21 inches in the shoulders and it will make very little difference to fit or the look. Having never stepped inside a gym or exercised I have never had to worry about strange sizing or getting too large for my jacket.

 

[Monitor]

I will once again paste what Stu of Lost Worlds said regarding the matter, because I agree with it: 'We are often asked to provide "shoulder measurement." In genuine tailoring no such measurement exists as there is no seam:seam length to measure. Further every (pseudo) "shoulder measurement" would differ according to armhole and sleeve configuration, which differs in every style and every mfg. Others, however, will provide this "length." We will not, as it has nothing to do with correct fit, misleads more than leads, and we're sticklers for correctness.'

 

[Seb Lucas]

Interesting Monitor, the significant effect the pattern has on shoulder width has been my conclusion too. Nevertheless I've never gone wrong requesting 20 inch shoulders in a jacket, no matter what the pattern. My Aero halfbelt had 18.5 shoulders and they were too narrow to my taste.

 

[Monitor]

While a jacket with shoulders that are too narrow can be a bit bothersome, I'd much rather deal with that than that horrible 80's drooping shoulders look.

 

[pak]

I personally do not like the look of jackets with a drooping shoulder seam. I do however have a jean style jacket from Hillside and the seams are about an inch off my shoulders. Despite this, the jacket is very comfortable. I did upsize a tad, for layering. My JL n-200 sized for a t-shirt or other light shirt, the seams are at the crown of my shoulders and it fits like a fine glove.

 

[Superfluous]

Best way is to measure a jacket that fits well rather than your actual shoulders.

+1.

 

[Seb Lucas]

While a jacket with shoulders that are too narrow can be a bit bothersome, I'd much rather deal with that than that horrible 80's drooping shoulders look.

I prefer drooping shoulders to narrow ones. But not much more droop than this.

 

[Smithy]

I prefer drooping shoulders to narrow ones. But not much more droop than this.

View attachment 18259

Bang on Seb.

Too narrow shoulders (along with too short in the body and sleeves) is one of the things that will make a jacket a horror to wear.

Give me 1/2 to 1 inch droop any day rather than 1/2 to 1 inch too narrow in the shoulders. You'll never enjoy wearing a jacket which is too narrow in the shoulders as it's just too restrictive in movement.

 

[gwyn]

I'm looking at getting a vintage perfecto.. stuck buying online cause there are no schott retailers near me.

20 inches pit to pit / cross shoulders 18.5

anyone clue me in on the perfecto cut and how it would look/fit with those measurements?


I have a 37 inch chest and fit into the schott 641 tagged 36 fine. chest is a bit roomy cause it has a 21 inch pit to pit and 17.5 cross shoulder seam to seam (official schott measurements, and i also measured myself). I'll try to take a newer picture but maybe i think it feels a bit tight in the shoulders, especially now. but i could be wrong. just worried about that extra inch since i'm essentially buying blind

 

[bretron]

I prefer drooping shoulders to narrow ones. But not much more droop than this.

View attachment 18259

Dude Guy could have worn a brown and purple tiedyed/sequined dress, and would have looked cool. I'll still take shoulders that fit

 

[Seb Lucas]

I'm looking at getting a vintage perfecto.. stuck buying online cause there are no schott retailers near me.

20 inches pit to pit / cross shoulders 18.5

anyone clue me in on the perfecto cut and how it would look/fit with those measurements?


I have a 37 inch chest and fit into the schott 641 tagged 36 fine. chest is a bit roomy cause it has a 21 inch pit to pit and 17.5 cross shoulder seam to seam (official schott measurements, and i also measured myself). I'll try to take a newer picture but maybe i think it feels a bit tight in the shoulders, especially now. but i could be wrong. just worried about that extra inch since i'm essentially buying blind

You're not going to see or notice half an inch on each side unless it's too narrow. Three inches? Then maybe.

 

[winterland1]

One thing I have noticed is the shoulded to shoulder width will make a difference on how the arm length fits. If the shoulders are a little tight it make the arm measurement shorter. If the shoulders are a little wide they push the same arm length out. I consider this when looking at measurements of shirts and jackets.

 

[Big J]

Bang on Seb.

Too narrow shoulders (along with too short in the body and sleeves) is one of the things that will make a jacket a horror to wear.

Give me 1/2 to 1 inch droop any day rather than 1/2 to 1 inch too narrow in the shoulders. You'll never enjoy wearing a jacket which is too narrow in the shoulders as it's just too restrictive in movement.

Couldn't agree more. All my A-2's fit like this. When I tried going a size down, I felt like I was being stabbed in the armpits. Not that I could move my arms, too much bind to even zip up the jacket.