Woodfluter
Practically Family
- Messages
- 784
- Location
- Georgia
For Doublegun:
Dittoing what ScottF and FFF said about steaming. Including times needed. I'd just add that you might find it easiest to go by stages instead of steaming the entire hat. For example, steam the top of the crown and get the center dent or diamond or approximate C-crown shape in there, then steam the front and work on any pinches or side dents, then maybe the front of the brim, followed by the back and sides. Then revisit anything that doesn't look right. It will stay pliable for a while but it helps to work fairly fast and re-steam promptly if something isn't quite right. And I reckon you know how useful a mirror is here. I do a lot of final shaping in front of one.
For CyberGent:
I'm no expert by a long shot, but by trial and no serious errors I've found you can do an number of things by hand and without specialized gear if you are careful and have a good eye. Stuff like a pencil edge on a Western is fairly easy.
Dishing the back of the brim was done by steaming (maybe wetting a little too, can't remember) and using curved stemless glasses to press the brim against a hard surface, while raising the hat up...having trouble describing this exactly...
You want to shorten the outer circumference, the part closest to the edge, so you squish that together while softened and it starts looking all wrinkly and awful, but then you steam it *really* hot there, lift up so only the outer part touches the counter and work from sides to back rolling the glassware hard against it. Repeat as needed. Ends up smooth and un-wrinkled but dished. Yeah, I know I'm crazy but I don't have a flange and will try stuff with replaceable hats.
- Bill
Dittoing what ScottF and FFF said about steaming. Including times needed. I'd just add that you might find it easiest to go by stages instead of steaming the entire hat. For example, steam the top of the crown and get the center dent or diamond or approximate C-crown shape in there, then steam the front and work on any pinches or side dents, then maybe the front of the brim, followed by the back and sides. Then revisit anything that doesn't look right. It will stay pliable for a while but it helps to work fairly fast and re-steam promptly if something isn't quite right. And I reckon you know how useful a mirror is here. I do a lot of final shaping in front of one.
For CyberGent:
I'm no expert by a long shot, but by trial and no serious errors I've found you can do an number of things by hand and without specialized gear if you are careful and have a good eye. Stuff like a pencil edge on a Western is fairly easy.
Dishing the back of the brim was done by steaming (maybe wetting a little too, can't remember) and using curved stemless glasses to press the brim against a hard surface, while raising the hat up...having trouble describing this exactly...
You want to shorten the outer circumference, the part closest to the edge, so you squish that together while softened and it starts looking all wrinkly and awful, but then you steam it *really* hot there, lift up so only the outer part touches the counter and work from sides to back rolling the glassware hard against it. Repeat as needed. Ends up smooth and un-wrinkled but dished. Yeah, I know I'm crazy but I don't have a flange and will try stuff with replaceable hats.
- Bill