I believe we are in trouble....

[Senator Jack]

The last thing a man's suit ought to be is a gimmick.

Regards,

Senator Jack

 

[herringbonekid]

I'm sort of confused then. What exactly unique does he to with a 1950s suit design that makes his creations so cutting edge and trendy? I'm certainly not a designer myself, but I think there are so many different designs in men's suits and they've already been done...I'd say the 1970s was when the last unique designs in men's clothing were created. Since then it's been all copycat...with a few minor tweaks here and there.

this is the postmodern age Quigley. that's what we do...reference the past. after all, everything's been done, said and thought before. we're free to take the parts we like, leave the parts we don't like, and perhaps work on the parts we like a little. or rip them off as you call it. the 70s referenced the 30s big style. (hey isn't even postmodernism new ?)
actually his suit is more a CHARICATURE of a late 50s suit. and that's acceptable no ?

 

[Senator Jack]

After my last reply, I had to look at it again. It really is a terrible suit, and I really am reminded of Anthony Burgess' descriptions of '60s KGB agents. Not only is it too short (even for the highwater craze of the mid-60s) but it's way too tight. It's ridiculous how the bottom of the jacket spreads out and it is for this very reason that I like to bottom my bottom button. (oh, the sartorial madness of that) The model does indeed look like Ernest T. Bass; he looks like he just got off the bus in the big city and is going to have quite a misadventures.

And yes we are talking about this clod, Browne, but we also scratched our heads over the idiocy that was David Hung (Chang? Wang? Wung? I can't remember his name already) who is now thankfully gone. No wonder men's fashion is a mess. No wonder the clerks in Brooks Brothers ask me where I get my suits. Sheesh, what an ugly world.

Regards,

Senator Jack

 

[Biltmore Bob]

That suit sucks...

...only a buger eating moron would wear such an abomination. He looks like he needs to pass on those clothes to his little brother.

 

[GateXC]

BTW the "model" in the picture actually is Thom Browne

 

[Art Fawcett]

BB, while in the Vintage clothing business some of our biggest clients were the design houses. For years we had a standing invitation to stop in & see "Ralph" when we were in New York ( yes, Lauren). When my wife was in the hospital she received flowers from Maggie Norris, then the head of Polo womens division.
When it's said there is nothing new in fashion, believe it. There are only adaptations of the past and crazy ways to wear them. Sorry it took me so long to jump in, couldn't stop puking after seeing the suit worn.:cry:

 

[Quigley Brown]

BTW the "model" in the picture actually is Thom Browne

I don't know who the all-powerful fashion designers are who say... 'this season the trendy way for men to dress will be....', but apparently the nerd look is the look for 2006. Thank goodness this look will only be seen in New York, London and Paris.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Possibly he's making a statement on the fact that most men today seem to wear suits that are too big in the jacket.

Just look at the width most men wear across the shoulders. Drape is the problem - too much of it. And the length of the arms on most mens jackets. And the fact that shape has disappeared fro mens jackets. Too big through the chest, waist and hips. I don't think i need mention the massiveness of arm holes in this forum.

We think little of seeing a man in a jacket that would be considered far too big to the gent of the past. But when we see a man in a jecket that is too small in every dimension we are taken aback.

Of course it looks ridiculous. But so do most men in their too large clothes ... That's the point.

bk

 

[Art Fawcett]

Agreed Bk.. I often found myself trying to convince a 40 regular guy that he was NOT a 43. It didn't often work so I started fitting them with their proper size and just telling them it was bigger.
Another thing that has always baffled me. When trying on a suit jacket most guy's will immediately start stretching and flexxing as though they were going to buy the suit for calistentics ( sp geeze..help me out here) instead of dress up. And then surprise of surprises..it didn't fit!! Why, there just wasn't enough room for jumping jacks in it....

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Funny you should say that, Art. I saw a guy not two months ago actually doing jumping jacks in the middle of a store. The sales assistant simply looked on bewildered.

bk

 

[Art Fawcett]

"Funny you should say that, Art. I saw a guy not two months ago actually doing jumping jacks in the middle of a store. The sales assistant simply looked on bewildered"

I believe it BK. It seems to have started after WWII. the guys started buying "casual"..ala..straight lined, loose fitting gear. The suits followed by the mid 50s and with only a few exceptions it continues today. I believe it's mostly just an education problem. Most today don't really know what "fit" means.

 

[Biltmore Bob]

Illustrating the absurd with an absurdity...

Possibly he's making a statement on the fact that most men today seem to wear suits that are too big in the jacket.

Just look at the width most men wear across the shoulders. Drape is the problem - too much of it. And the length of the arms on most mens jackets. And the fact that shape has disappeared fro mens jackets. Too big through the chest, waist and hips. I don't think i need mention the massiveness of arm holes in this forum.

We think little of seeing a man in a jacket that would be considered far too big to the gent of the past. But when we see a man in a jecket that is too small in every dimension we are taken aback.

Of course it looks ridiculous. But so do most men in their too large clothes ... That's the point.

bk

That may well be, but there are few of us that will understand the gesture, like you, Baron...the rest of us just see an idiot in a suit that is too small.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

precis.

 

[Biltmore Bob]

I guess that would be me...

"Funny you should say that, Art. I saw a guy not two months ago actually doing jumping jacks in the middle of a store. The sales assistant simply looked on bewildered"

I believe it BK. It seems to have started after WWII. the guys started buying "casual"..ala..straight lined, loose fitting gear. The suits followed by the mid 50s and with only a few exceptions it continues today. I believe it's mostly just an education problem. Most today don't really know what "fit" means.

I really can't stand anything that fits snug. I stopped wearing belts because of that. I pretty much wear suspenders with my britches now. While I don't want to do the daily dozen in a suit I do want some freedom of movement. I own a couple suits and several jackets. They're all probably a size or two too big. All my trousers to include my jeans and dungarees are loose. I guess I'm turning into an old man, but give me some freakin' comfort, will ya?

I've been wearing Newsboy caps almost exclusively for about a year now, tried on my brand new in the box Biltmore, for some reason I felt claustophobic, I don't know why. Couldn't wait to get my well worn and broken in B! Wear on my grape.



Bought four shirts and a pair of trousers form a dept. store that was having a going out of biddness sale the day before yesterday. Every thing was 70% off. Got everything a size bigger than I needed. It feels good that way. Now mind you I don't wear my britches below my butt crack or anything, but I need the freedom, for crying out loud.

Am I in the minority? Am I the only wierdo like this?

 

[Art Fawcett]

Not a weirdo BB..just sensible. But, let me ask..would you apply the same fit to a tux? I would hope not. Everything in my eyes is "job appropriate" meaning the purpose of the clothing. Casual should be just that..loose & comfortable. That being said I have suits that are not loose but still comfortable because they fit. When wearing one I have a different attitude than when I'm in loose slacks. I have never run a race in a suit so I would never expect it to fit that circumstance. I find it hilarious when it's expected to be something it isnt.

 

[Biltmore Bob]

Ain't much of a Tux guy, Art...

But I reckon I see your point....my clothes are mostly working/casual attire. In a pinch they will work for dinner out if I don't have too many paw prints on me. And I'll have to hose off my shoes too.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Of course, yonder designer could be making a comment about those of us who wear our clothes snug.

bk

Addition 5 hours later:

I just realised that i don't quite understand why this designer's look is considered "edgy" or extreme. Isn't this what skateboarders have been wearing (clothes too small for them) for the at least the last 10 years? Certainly this is how boarders dressed when i knew them. Maybe this is something for the thread currently ongoing about the extension of adolescence?

 

[Marty M.]

Always on time, always look sharp.

Not a weirdo BB..just sensible. But, let me ask..would you apply the same fit to a tux? I would hope not. Everything in my eyes is "job appropriate" meaning the purpose of the clothing. Casual should be just that..loose & comfortable. That being said I have suits that are not loose but still comfortable because they fit. When wearing one I have a different attitude than when I'm in loose slacks. I have never run a race in a suit so I would never expect it to fit that circumstance. I find it hilarious when it's expected to be something it isnt.

Here, Here. Well put statement. Always dress for the "job approiateness" and your station in life.

Marty

 

[Flitcraft]

I've looked at that Thom Brown suit a dozen times and I still don't get his point.
I like the Sartorialist's site and I generally respect his judgement, but I just don't get this one at all.

At first, I really thought it was some kind of put on, but if it is, I still don't get it.

Mr. Brown is not exactly a walking billboard for his product....