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I am out to buy my very first montecristi.

Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
Great advice all around, but I disagree about leather hat bands. I'm in south Georgia, and the leather is completely uncomfortable. I just sent my hat to Art and asked specifically to change to something more suitable to sweating-all-the-time weather. Not to mention, all that sweating shrinks and otherwise wreaks havoc on the leather band and misshapes the hat. I also note that Brent Black shares the opinion for what that's worth. In short, if you're buying it for special occasions, by all means go leather, but if you plan to wear it and live in the appropriate climate to do so, I'd opt for some type of sturdy fabric sweatband. My $.02.


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If your agenda includes strenuous activity, a Montecristi hat is not appropriate gear. Buy a lightweight nylon Tilley hat. You can machine wash it after.

Brent Black's page on selection of sweatband can be read here.
 

Bob Bobson

New in Town
Messages
3
Location
Savannah, GA
Touché, Alanfgag. I could swear he said otherwise previously, but I trust the site over my foggy memory. Not sure where you live, but walking in south Georgia in the summer, while not necessarily strenuous, will nevertheless make you sweat a lot. Although I appreciate your advice to give up on montecristis, I think I'll just take the position that each person use his hat as he chooses. I paid for mine and choose not to use leather, and I encourage you to do what's best for you. I only offer the opinion that if you live in a humid climate, leather's uncomfortable. YMMV. To each his own monte. I doubt anyone, mr. Black included, will complain if we buy more... ;-)


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JoeyC

One of the Regulars
Messages
233
Location
United States
A fabric sweatband is cheap, feels comfortable and will allow perspiration to penetrate and reach the hat body. Choose a good quality leather sweatband.

I have quite a few straw/Panama hats with leather sweat bands and wear them more frequently than the 2 Borsas I have. However, there are times I'll grab the Borsas for their lightweight comfort, I am at times inclined to take 2 hats along when I'll be out for an entire day and the weather is expected to be hot and humid, leave one in the car. When at home, not a problem. In summer when doing strenuous work around the house I wear a beater, generally a western straw. Your point is well taken though. If I were a first time Panama buyer I would certainly heed your advice.
 

pajabrava

New in Town
Messages
4
Location
florida
Thank you all … great advice and eye openers. I just need one final advice before buying the hat. The brim size I like concerns me, since I am on the chubby side a 3.5” to 4” seems fitting. A brim of this size will it have a tendency to warp, wave, deform or will it be strong enough?
 

Genuine Classic Gangster

One of the Regulars
Messages
163
Location
Canada
I am kind of in the same boat as the OP. I want to buy my first Montecristi next summer, if I can save up enough money by that time.

I have a Monticristi from Panama hats direct about 800 to 900 Wpi.

What grade is that in terms of Panama hats direct's terminology?

Do your homework before pulling the trigger... Be able to recognize "sales puffery"

No doubt that is good advice, but in my opinion it is hard to follow because Panamas are a complicated subject.

Even if one has done his homework, how does he know what a good value for his dollar and a bad value for his dollar would be?

As a layman to the subject of Panamas, I'd find shopping for one much easier & less stressful if someone who knows a lot about them made an unbiased (as much as possible), easy-to-understand chart that cross-references prices & weave qualities from various vendors, and ranks them from best to worst value for one's dollar, in the author's opinion. Is there a reason why no one does anything like that? Would that that make the author have to worry about getting sued or something?

Since as far as I know, no chart like that exists, my layman status tempts me to buy from the kind of sites you recommend that one should not, i.e. sites that don't get bogged down with technical details that usually wouldn't help me know what is a good or bad value anyway.

As far as I can tell, lots of times the technical details on some of those sites seem to be a key component of their sales puffery about which you warn. My impression is that some vendors use technical claims to convince their layman website readers/potential customers why their products are much better values than the other guys', and their laymen readers have a very rough time trying to figure out whether those statements are true (and/or the full story) or not. Technical details as sales puffery is also another reason why, in a way, I'm inclined to trust vendors more if they don't feature technical details.

Although I can certainly see the other side of that coin as you've pointed it out, where some vendors who guard the technical details may be doing so in order to charge higher prices for lower quality hats. :eeek:
 
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JoeyC

One of the Regulars
Messages
233
Location
United States
Thank you all … great advice and eye openers. I just need one final advice before buying the hat. The brim size I like concerns me, since I am on the chubby side a 3.5” to 4” seems fitting. A brim of this size will it have a tendency to warp, wave, deform or will it be strong enough?

If the hat fits properly it should not do any of the above. A hat that's too tight or the wrong oval for your head shape would have a tendency to cause the brim to wave especially a soft hat. At least that's been my experience. Felts are more forgiving.
 

RJR

Messages
10,620
Location
Iowa
Mostly agree with the above BUT a very finely woven brim will probably wave a bit in a breeze.
 
Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
No doubt that is good advice, but in my opinion it is hard to follow because Panamas are a complicated subject.

Even if one has done his homework, how does he know what a good value for his dollar and a bad value for his dollar would be?

A visit to a hat store that has inventory would be the most helpful. Optimo Hats in Chicago has Montecristis to see and handle. Getting a handle on the dialectic of value/fineness/beauty requires a hands on experience. Close-up photos of the hats that other people have purchased will not serve as well.

This is a post I made to the Side By Side thread comparing a number of Montecristi hats in the classic blocking style. You might find it interesting as a starting point. If nothing else, it has a clever title. :)

count5.jpg


count5a.jpg
 
Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
Touché, Alanfgag. I could swear he said otherwise previously, but I trust the site over my foggy memory. Not sure where you live, but walking in south Georgia in the summer, while not necessarily strenuous, will nevertheless make you sweat a lot. Although I appreciate your advice to give up on montecristis, I think I'll just take the position that each person use his hat as he chooses. I paid for mine and choose not to use leather, and I encourage you to do what's best for you. I only offer the opinion that if you live in a humid climate, leather's uncomfortable. YMMV. To each his own monte. I doubt anyone, mr. Black included, will complain if we buy more... ;-)

I agree that comfort is different for each of us. How and when we sweat, where we live, how much we weigh, how much a hat weighs and how precious a hat is will affect the comfort (both physical and psychological) of wearing a particular hat on a given day. When the day is hot and humid I will reach for my lightest weight straw hat, which is not a Montecristi, but a buntal hat (the last hat in the thread referenced in my post just above) that weighs just over 2 ounces.
 

ingineer

One Too Many
Messages
1,088
Location
Clifton NJ
I respect the opinions of credo Alan and Daniele.
Sometimes more is less, the real high counts tend to be wonky, as hot as a canvas or felt, and very prone to damage.
remember all these are somewhat perishable.
LOL i was going to suggest Tom Gomez , when i found this on his etsy page.
now coming to me
 

LeBois46

One of the Regulars
Messages
102
Location
Southern California
I think Drdan is spot on with his discussion of Montecristi hats. Any one purchasing on should at least give it some thought. I live where it is pretty dry and hot during the summer. Wish we had some more rain. So I get a lot of use out of a straw hat. I have several Cuenca hats and really like them. I wear them when I travel or just hang out. However my favorite, is my BBB Montecristi. It cost more than I have ever spent on a hat. I wear it when going out for the evening or some nice occasion. I don't trust myself with it when traveling as I might lose it! But what a hat. I wore it to church last week and hadn't taken it off when I went into the narthex. The greeter said, "Whoa Nellie, what a hat!" Anyways, never wear it if it looks like rain. So if you do decide to pull the trigger, remember then limitations, but it is a hat to covet. They are nice.
 
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Drdan

Familiar Face
Messages
96
Location
Rome Italy and Hannover Germany
Most people who appreciate Panama hats will have more than one, just as those who wear felt hats usually have several. If I am going out and need to dress up, I'll put on a nice Italian suit, beautiful shoes, and a quality Panama. If I'm on vacation in the Caribbean, and will be exploring the countryside, I'll usually just bring an entry level $100 Montecristi, and even carry a plastic bag with me to protect my phone and hat in case there's a downpour. :)

If you have high quality clothes and a high quality Panama, you're even more apt to take good care of them and be particularly judicious as to when and where you will wear them. An entry level Panama will be out of place if you're wearing a Brioni suit, as would donning a high end Montecristi while exploring a tropical Rainforest, where it's likely to get wet and soiled.

If you take care of a quality Panama it will last for many years. Even an entry level Panama will last a long time if it's not abused.
 
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Genuine Classic Gangster

One of the Regulars
Messages
163
Location
Canada
I might buy a hat from PHD eventually, but I hate every single ribbon featured on their website. I'm accustomed to much better ribbons and I can't bear to lower my standards to that level. If I were to be stuck with one of those ribbons should I buy from them, for me that would be a deal-breaker.

Is there any way to work around to that problem?

For example:

1. Is there any place where I could buy premium quality vintage ribbon myself (I do not own a business though, so with this option the vendor would have to be willing to sell to end-users)?

2. Are there any hatters who deal in premium quality vintage ribbon who would consult with me to find out what would be suitable for a PHD hat and then sell me a piece of theirs, without being offended that I'm taking up their time and expertise for a relatively minor service/product after not having bought a substantial product from them first?

3. Similarly, are there hatters who would be willing to attach a good ribbon to a hat that I didn't buy from them without being offended for the same reasons?

I don't know how to attach ribbons myself and even if I tried to learn how and then do it, I am unconfident that it would turn out well, so if I'm going to use a non-PHD ribbon on a PHD hat, I will need a hatter to attach it.

Or if none of those possible workarounds are viable, please let me know that too so I can determine whether I should stop considering PHD as a future vendor for myself because they are unable to meet my ribbon needs.
 
Messages
19,426
Location
Funkytown, USA
There are several shops on Etsy that deal in vintage ribbon, and I've sourced some nice ones from those shops. It would be nice if you had somebody local who could do the ribbon work, but I'm sure you could work something out with an online dealer. They can only say no, right?

And doing it yourself isn't that difficult. If I can do it, anyone can.
 

AndyR

One of the Regulars
Messages
271
Location
Illinois
I don't know how to attach ribbons myself and even if I tried to learn how and then do it, I am unconfident that it would turn out well, so if I'm going to use a non-PHD ribbon on a PHD hat, I will need a hatter to attach it.

You can easily attach a ribbon of your choice yourself, if you are willing to do it the way PHD does it. According to a video they sent me, they attach them with hot melt glue. That may raise eyebrows of some I don't know. I was a bit surprised myself. I wonder how other hatters attach the ribbons to Panama hats.

Andy
 

DJH

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,355
Location
Ft Worth, TX
Tom Gomez has added ribbons and sweatbands to some of my Montecristi and Milan hats and has always done a super job.

As pointed out a few posts up, Tom also makes really nice Panama hats and is a great Panama hat go-to guy.
 

daizawaguy

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,661
Location
Tokyo
After having been to Worth and Worth in NYC, I`d strongly recommend them. No doubt, and I`ve a few Montecriti`s in my procession...
 

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