Hunting a buco j-100

[Fanch]

I have heard spectacular feedback regarding DD's work. He is located as I recall in Tulso, Oklahoma. I thought I had read a recent review about a TFL member's DD J-100 and here it is:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...portswear-J-100-Review&highlight=Diamond+Dave

 

[nick123]

Great video review of the Diamond J-100
http://youtu.be/7rFDM6XLQuQ

 

[wanz]

+1 on DD's work. Wish that I had found him much earlier in my j100 hunt.

 

[Monitor]

Superfluous, no, not by hand, so I may have jumped ahead of myself there but I've spoken to Diamond Clothing co. about these jackets and the amount of work and detail they put into 'em is crazy. Dave I heard is meticulous when it comes to having the right hide to work with and all the other materials for that matter, and makes zero compromises (couple of his threads about the matter here, on TFL). There's one Buco J-21 over at classifieds, plenty of high-res pics of it in the thread and having done my homework on these jackets, I can safely say this is one repro that cannot be topped. Some of the details on that one are actually more correct than on the RMC version. Granted, nobody knows the exact models RMC based their repros on as Buco themselves changed details with each batch, but either way, with that kind of workmanship, attention to detail and materials, there's zero doubt in my mind that DD is at least at the same level with RMC.

I have very recently seen a RMC, though it wasn't a J-100. Spectacular in every way.

 

[handymike]

I think that the partnership between DD and JC speaks volumes about his work. ;-)

 

[Jägernaut]

Goodwear has a beautiful sz 44 italian horsehide cafe racer on their sale page.

 

[Jägernaut]

Hey nick. Sharp looking technicolor dreamcoat in your avatar.

 

[handymike]

I remember that one from VLJ. The zipper was spec'd larger for more of a 60's/ 70's vibe and easier to grab pull.
Beautiful jacket! and a good price for John's work.

 

[bretron]

# 10 is one hellova beastly zipper!

 

[Blackadder]

Superfluous, no, not by hand, so I may have jumped ahead of myself there but I've spoken to Diamond Clothing co. about these jackets and the amount of work and detail they put into 'em is crazy. Dave I heard is meticulous when it comes to having the right hide to work with and all the other materials for that matter, and makes zero compromises (couple of his threads about the matter here, on TFL). There's one Buco J-21 over at classifieds, plenty of high-res pics of it in the thread and having done my homework on these jackets, I can safely say this is one repro that cannot be topped. Some of the details on that one are actually more correct than on the RMC version. Granted, nobody knows the exact models RMC based their repros on as Buco themselves changed details with each batch, but either way, with that kind of workmanship, attention to detail and materials, there's zero doubt in my mind that DD is at least at the same level with RMC.

I have very recently seen a RMC, though it wasn't a J-100. Spectacular in every way.

Am really tempted to order a J-21 from DD. I own a normal RM J-100 and have handled a few of the special ones e.g. the J-100 Cycle Psycho. I have seen the DD J-100 in person. The RM has slimmer waist, smaller armhole and narrower sleeves. You can choose Black over Black (likely black shiniki overpainted in black again) or Black over Brown (likely brown shiniki overpainted in brown) for your RM. The Black over Brown is easy to achieve that vintage look as the overpaint disappear quickly with wear. DD depending on the leather one choose will vary. Some with lots of grain and some are pretty smooth. The RMs are very neat and always perfect like near machine made accuracy while the DD seems more personal with slight variations, small telltale of handcraft difference.

 

[Monitor]

adder, it's a work of art alright. I don't know if I'd wear it, if I had one. Frame it, perhaps, hang it on the wall... I mean, brown tape on the zippers. Talk about attention to detail. Did you see the one in the Classifieds? Wouldn't work for you, huh?

 

[Blackadder]

adder, it's a work of art alright. I don't know if I'd wear it, if I had one. Frame it, perhaps, hang it on the wall... I mean, brown tape on the zippers. Talk about attention to detail. Did you see the one in the Classifieds? Wouldn't work for you, huh?

It wouldn't do to hang it on the wall because you would also want the fading effect, no? It is not exactly the attention to detail. I know DD's attention to detail is also excellent, the right repro parts are used, the correct placing of pockets etc. With RM, it is the conformity. You know every single piece will look almost exactly the same.

Yes. I saw it way back when but 44 is many sizes too big. I am trying to save money to place a custom order. I say trying because am going on another Tokyo shopping trip.

 

[Justhandguns]

It wouldn't do to hang it on the wall because you would also want the fading effect, no? It is not exactly the attention to detail. I know DD's attention to detail is also excellent, the right repro parts are used, the correct placing of pockets etc. With RM, it is the conformity. You know every single piece will look almost exactly the same.

Yes. I saw it way back when but 44 is many sizes too big. I am trying to save money to place a custom order. I say trying because am going on another Tokyo shopping trip.

Lucky you Blackadder! I second everything you and Monitor had said. If one cannot have access to RMC, DD is the best around (in terms of repro, better!). Diamond is certainly not a poor man's Buco. I have seen the RM Buco jackets myself, they have clinical finishes (in footballing term), but DD's jackets are less sterile and you simply cannot miss the thrill and joy of customising your jacket with Dave!

 

[el_gato]

Guys help me out yet again. I found a sz 38 one in a shop in japan but am being told, that it might be too small. My chest measurements are 100cm and 104cm expanded. Waist is 83cm.

What do you guys think? Should I size up to 40, or will 38 be right? I want the jacket to fit moderately snug.

Kind regards

 

[handymike]

I had to size up to a 40 in their A2, but the 38 A1 fit great.
Check your measurements!!!!

 

[Blackadder]

98 cm chest here and I wear a size 36 but it is a very tight fit. A size 38 will be a very tight fit for you meaning t-shirt inside and can still zip up but no extra room. However, there is also question of length, remember these are regular Japanese cut best for 5'8-5'10. My advice would be forget RM if you are more than half an inch above 5'10.

 

[el_gato]

98 cm chest here and I wear a size 36 but it is a very tight fit. A size 38 will be a very tight fit for you meaning t-shirt inside and can still zip up but no extra room. However, there is also question of length, remember these are regular Japanese cut best for 5'8-5'10. My advice would be forget RM if you are more than half an inch above 5'10.

I'm 5'7
I will usually wear a t-shirt or polo shirt underneath but might want to wear a very thin sweater on cooler days. So your suggestion is to go with size 40?

basically I like snug fit but don't like it when the jacket is restrictive in movement.

 

[Blackadder]

I'm 5'7
I will usually wear a t-shirt or polo shirt underneath but might want to wear a very thin sweater on cooler days. So your suggestion is to go with size 40?

basically I like snug fit but don't like it when the jacket is restrictive in movement.

The RM jacket unlike the western repros have small (high) armhole, the restrictiveness of the jacket also depends on the armhole placement and the RM will likely be more restrictive than the western repros. You have to watch the shoulder measurement (size 38 is 46cm) as well. If you go to Real McCoy's Nagoya's site, the measurement is pretty spot on.
If it was me, I will go for a size 38. A thin sweater not sweatshirt should also be fine. I suspect that you may find the size 40 a bit loose. I assume you want the basic model and not the padded one? The padded one is different as they adjusted the cut slightly.

 

[el_gato]

The RM jacket unlike the western repros have small (high) armhole, the restrictiveness of the jacket also depends on the armhole placement and the RM will likely be more restrictive than the western repros. You have to watch the shoulder measurement (size 38 is 46cm) as well. If you go to Real McCoy's Nagoya's site, the measurement is pretty spot on.
If it was me, I will go for a size 38. A thin sweater not sweatshirt should also be fine. I suspect that you may find the size 40 a bit loose. I assume you want the basic model and not the padded one? The padded one is different as they adjusted the cut slightly.

Yes the basic model unpadded.
As for the measurements, I'm not sure whether for example a 104cm expanded chest means 104cm chest on the jacket is okay or an inch or two more is required to breath freely...

 

[handymike]

You are going to need a little room. Add 3 inches or so (trim fit) to your semi-expanded chest measurement to get the jacket chest size you need. My expanded chest is 38.5" and a good pit to pit measurement is 21-21.5" depending on how I want my fit.