Humphrey Bogart's Shirt

[Evan Everhart]

Hi everyone!

I just recently had a Humphrey Bogart movie marathon, and I noticed something interesting; in several of his films, he is wearing a shirt by the same maker....The maker uses double pleats at the meeting of the back with the yoke; the shoulder pleats, and appears to use reverse pleats at the cuffs, regardless of whether the shirts have buttoned or French cuffs.

I really love the easy elegance and understatement of these wonderful details but am utterly unfamiliar with them.

Can anyone identify them?

Hell, I'll probably have my next pale gray chambray or white broadcloth made up like that if I can't find the maker.

Still though, curious as heck. Please inform if known.

P.S. For me, these details are particularly easy to spot in both Dark Passage and Key Largo. Also, the same semi-spearpoint collar which is nicely long without being over the top.

And are those black pearl cuff-links in Dark Passage?

Thanks again!

 

[Seb Lucas]

Are they not costume shirts by studio wardrobe?

 

[emigran]

He was indeed a naty dresser and could really flaunt a bowtie...

 

[Edward]

Are they not costume shirts by studio wardrobe?

Could have been.... was there any truth in the old legend that Bogie wore a lot of his own wardrobe on set?

 

[DesertDan]

It is my understanding that this was not too uncommon a practice among the top names during the contract studio era. At least among the male stars, not sure in regards to the females.

 

[Evan Everhart]

It is my understanding that this was not too uncommon a practice among the top names during the contract studio era. At least among the male stars, not sure in regards to the females.

I assume the shirts were his own, as many of the top male stars wore clothing sponsored by the studios which they worked for, which were to meet certain design parameters set out by the studios which employed them. Not sure though. Also, it's the same boat in To Have and Have not, and in Key Largo.

But that shirt; no ideas as to the maker? Thanks Guys!

 

[GHT]

Bogart certainly exuded that stylish class. I've never noticed the shirts though, it's that trench coat, I'm always on the lookout for something similar. Here's a link to some fabulous pics of Bogart, and you are right about his shirts.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=i...ow-to-dress-like-humphrey-bogart%2F;1183;1500

 

[Evan Everhart]

Humphrey was always one of the most stylish. I keep my eye out for any overcoats like his, I'm thinking that I'll have my guys over at Natty make me up a shirt with those details which I have come to admire so thoroughly, as for other Bogartesque items, I've got that Casablanca tie from Magnoli Clothiers and if it were a couple-few inches shorter, it would be absolutely perfect. Great style.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Could have been.... was there any truth in the old legend that Bogie wore a lot of his own wardrobe on set?

Yes, a number of items. But I remember reading about Bogart being fitted with shirts to make him look less scrawny. Along with lifts in shoes and toupees, the studio had more control over Bogart and other stars than we think.

 

[Evan Everhart]

I wish I knew the maker! Also, has anyone else noticed that his suits in The Big Sleep have their lapel buttonhole on the wrong side?

Also three different suits were shown as his vis a vis his cuffed wrists as he picked up the camera to inspect it in Arthur Gwynn Geiger's bungalow when he was retrieving Carmen Sternwood; first, a barleycorn material, next a heavy twill stitched together strangely at the seam, and finally the actual suit shown worn in all of the scenes which appears to be a basic worsted from its texture and the semi-close-ups throughout the scene. Fascinating and fun details!

Oh, and yeah, the lifts; totally obvious, right?! They gave his shoes a rather arched instep and bulky profile at the toe along with noticeably (just barely) higher than average heels, like a modified and shortened Cuban heel for flamenco dancing shoes. A very distinctive silhouette!

 

[Evan Everhart]

I know a good tailor who will make a reproduction of the Casablanca trenchcoat for you. It won't be the cheapest, but he does very high quality work. I just got my trousers for my suit for my wedding. Perfection in cashmere. And he has reproduced other garments from pictures and examples with diagrams that I've shown him before.

 

[GHT]

You could post a link and I will make enquiries. Sorry if I sound ungrateful, but from experience it can be quite costly buying from abroad. Last year I bought a Stetson fedora from The Village Hat Shop in San Diego. The price went from $225 at purchase, no local tax because it was going abroad. $55 shipping cost. £37 import duty and local carrier carriage charge (that's about $58) and finally, £3 ($5) from my credit card company for the monetary exchange. $225 to $343. Expensive, or what?

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I wish I knew the maker! Also, has anyone else noticed that his suits in The Big Sleep have their lapel buttonhole on the wrong side?

The jackets with the lapel buttonholes are from Oviatts. I've read
bout this in a Facebook group not long ago from a guy who collects this brand. Several of his overcoats (for example in Big Sleep) were from the same maker. So maybe the shirts too?

 

[herringbonekid]

this discussion needs screen grabs.

 

[Annixter]

The jackets with the lapel buttonholes are from Oviatts. I've read
bout this in a Facebook group not long ago from a guy who collects this brand. Several of his overcoats (for example in Big Sleep) were from the same maker. So maybe the shirts too?

While I can't say where Bogart got his suits in The Big Sleep, moving or removing lapel buttonholes became a fashion option at one point. I've seen vintage movies and photos of double-breasted jackets with a button hole on each lapel, a button hole on only one lapel, and no button hole at all. I've seen single-breasted jackets with the button hole on either the left or right. I also recall reading somewhere (here maybe?) that Oviatts might have popularized the right lapel button hole.

this discussion needs screen grabs.

+1 to that.

 

[Evan Everhart]

Thanks for the info! What a very peculiar detail! He doesn't wear those shirts in The Big Sleep though....

 

[Evan Everhart]

While I can't say where Bogart got his suits in The Big Sleep, moving or removing lapel buttonholes became a fashion option at one point. I've seen vintage movies and photos of double-breasted jackets with a button hole on each lapel, a button hole on only one lapel, and no button hole at all. I've seen single-breasted jackets with the button hole on either the left or right. I also recall reading somewhere (here maybe?) that Oviatts might have popularized the right lapel button hole.


As for the double lapel buttonholes on a DB suit, that's a carry-over from the original DB coats which were military coats meant to be buttoned up to the neck. Hence double buttonholes for double rows of buttons. The buttonhole on the right hand side however makes no functional sense and is instead a very unusual and hence interesting if not personally desirable detail. I both hate having mysteries, and enjoy solving them; life's little ironies, aye? Love the cut of his suit in The Big Sleep though, Perfection in a two piece!

Oviatts....I will have to research! Thanks! Rewatching The Big Sleep now.....I wish I had Hammet on DVD, or that it was still on Netflix. Ha!