How to wear a vintage suit.

[Miss Neecerie]

Actually i think the cuffs look better on heavier weight fabrics.

Watch the movie Swing ime starring Fred Astaire. The story of the movie is guided by a man misguided about cuffing trousers.

I cuff all my trousers accept for ones I see as more toward the casual casual or work wear like jeans or khakis. When cuffs came about they were looked at as the less dressy look, turning up your trousers so they wouldn't get wet in the puddle kind of thing. Now to me they are pretty dreey as I see them as not being the norm. Though for the high high class occasions where you wear a tux and morning coat or tails, cuffs are out of place.

I prefer the 1 3/4 cuff. Too narrow and there is no point!

Tailor: 'I have never seen cuffs on these trousers.
Guy: But I want cuffs...
Tailor (throwing down example books): ''100's of no cuffs! '
Guy: Well I want cuffs, can't you do it?
Tailor: 'I can do anything! But I will not!' No Cuffs!

 

[Wild Root]

What our dear friend Matt failed to mention about the movie is that the trousers that “Lucky” (Played by Fred Astaire) was wearing were formal striped trousers that are worn with cutaway coats for weddings and such. The traditional stripped trousers of that nature never had cuffs. The trick in the movie was to keep they’re dancing partner from getting married, so, one of the guys saw a copy of a man’s magazine (Squire instead of Esquire) and he drew cuffs onto a fashion plate in the magazine and pointed it out to “Lucky” as to point out that he’s out of fashion with out cuffs in order to detain him so he’d be late for his wedding… they all conspired to keep him there… his friend “Pop’s” the magician took the pants to the tailor and this is what happened…


I’ve never before seen cuffs on these!
Why, can’t you do it?
I can do anything!
Well, why not?
I’d rather not be wrong then right!
Well, I'm paying for cuffs and I want cuffs.
(Tailor pulls out book after book of fashion plates)
Look here, you see there? No cuff! Here, no cuff! Thousands of NO CUFFS!!! Millions of no CUFF! Positively not ONE CUFF! (slams book on table)


But, I want cuffs….
(The tailor bombards him with more books)

Classic bit of RKO Fred and Ginger comedy!

For me, I cuff everything but cutaway pants and formal pants two a tux or set of tails.

For me, the cuff isn’t dressy, it’s just a nice finish to the end of the pant, providing a nice weight to the trouser to give it a better drape. Also, pants just so much more old fashioned with a nice deep cuff like 1 ¾” or 2”. Anything less is just pointless and incorrect for the period.

=WR=

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Just like what was said to PoW when he wore light brown herringbone tweed trousers with his morning coat to greet King of Sweden or some such. Daddy George was very unhappy! Such rules are silly. Have cuffs if ye like 'em.

bk

 

[Tony in Tarzana]

Another advantage...

I used to wear cuffs a lot as a kid, and occasionally I'd find loose change in the cuff that had fallen out of my pocket. Back then a nickel or a dime was big money.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I've only found lint, confetti, and flakes of cigarette tobacco.

.

 

[Wild Root]

I've found an old burned out match with ashes... some men used them as ash trays!

But, I'm with the wild tailor from "Swing Time" there should never be cuffs on tux pants or cutaway pants...a hundreds.. a, a, thousands of not, one, cuff! lol

=WR=

 

[jake_fink]

I found a golf ball once.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I found Jimmy Hoffa a couple of times.

.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Lord Lucan popped out of mine one time. Must've been drinking that night.

bk

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Didn't puke while inside there, did he?

.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

No, but there was a LOT of blood ... and a lead pipe.

bk

 

[DanielJones]

So, what's the golden rule for bold suits & zoot suits?

Cheers!

Dan

 

[Zach R.]

You guys are ridiculous. lol

 

[tallyho]

pleats

I have a number of original '40s trousers and suits, most with pleats. the pleats are very deep. (the cuffs, incidently, are anywhere from 1 3/4 to 2 1/2 inches deep). On most currently made trousers, the pleats are no where near as deep. this is probably done to save on fabric costs and labour time. your higher quality trousers, higher end Ralph Lauren for example, will give you deep pleats. My usual "test" is to slip the tip of my index finger into the pleat where it meets the waist band. A Good deep pleat will go past my first knuckle. Anything less does not give a good looking "hang" nor a '40s look.

I hope this helps.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

You have pants with 2 1/2 inch cuffs? Whoa -- those are incredibly wide.

.

 

[tallyho]

sure do! they are very thick light greay melton wool with a paperbag waist(hollywood waist)

 

[TwoToneDeuce]

So, what's the golden rule for bold suits & zoot suits?

Cheers!

Dan

I normally go with a 7-8 in peg leg and a 2in cuff. A good taylor can and will do this, most will think you are crazy at first. I suggest taking a picture in with you. This will clear up what look you are going for. You also want pleats and hollywood waist if you can get them. Most modern "Zoot suits" don't have a hollywood waist.

If you are looking for good zoot suits like this El pachuco http://www.elpachuco.com/pachucoindex.html has great suits based on vintage patterns.

-D

 

[Mr. Rover]

After seeing those old Apparel Arts and Esquires, I'm going for minimal break to no break with 2" cuffs. I just got back 2 pairs of pants from the seamstress this way and they look great!

 

[herringbonekid]

good man.
i go for no or barely-there break myself.
a sloppy break ruins the clean profile silhoutte.

 

[mikepara]

Wow 2Tone

must say its down to personal taste but I wouldn't have the b*lls to walk around in one of those Zoot Suits.

But if I really had to... the pinstripe or black would be the one.

I thought I was fearless. How wrong could I be. Mind thats one distinctive look.