How to wear a vintage suit.

[Wild Root]

For those who want to look like they stepped right out of the time period they?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢re trying to emulate, it is key or vital to wear the suit like they would have worn in the movies or as we see in old photographs.

To pull off the ?¢‚Ǩ?ìI stepped out of 1941 look?¢‚Ǩ? a man wouldn't need to have a suit that?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s dated 1941 but, either a vintage 40?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s suit or a modern suit that was constructed with a classic line and drape with full cut pants. Now, if we?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢re talking about a 100% real vintage suit, it is key to wear the pants where our grandfathers did, don?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢t have much of a brake in the pants or if any brake at all. The style of the time was to have strait creases that were uninterrupted in lines. Some of us prefer a brake, I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢d suggest a slight brake. But, the typical multiple folds of fabric sitting on top of the cuff is a recipe for failure.

The coat should fit snugly, shouldn?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢t have a baggy fit at all. Now, if you have a real 40?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s suit, then you?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢d not have to worry about cavernous armholes but, just having the coat altered to fit snug if needed. Also, the sleeves should have a nice crease set into them! This was a very typical look on suits of that time.

The Trousers should be worn at one?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s mid section or ?¢‚Ǩ?ìNatural Waist?¢‚Ǩ? and is very vital in making vintage pants look correct, or modern pants look old fashioned. I find pants more comfortable if they?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢re worn at the correct place and also find that a superior drape is achieved. Now, if they?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢re modern pants, they would have to be a size larger then you?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢d wear. You want a deeper seat and deeper pleats so, all you?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢d have to do is take in the waist an inch and presto! You have a pair that you can wear properly with out ?¢‚Ǩ?ìcrowding?¢‚Ǩ? if you know what I mean.

Now, also neckwear is very important! So many today think that a man?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s tie is to extend below the waist band, this is not true for a 40?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s style or look. You want that tie to hang just above the waistband! Also, vintage ties are considerably shorter then modern ties.
If you wore a nice vintage tie even with a modern suit, you?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢re a step a head of the game!
Now, if you wear a modern tie with a vintage suit; you can, but it would make a vintage suit look modern, believe it or not.

For more tips and information on how to dress vintage or old fashioned, feel free to drop me a line via PM.

Now, I open it up for discussion.

=WR=

 

[Big Joe]

Would the pants have pleats?

Big Joe

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Excellent tips above ...

forget ye not: arm length - not too long, chaps ... jacket length - long 40s, or short 30s? 1941 (should we stick to this date?) is something of a transition between the two. I've seen super long and super short jackets (especially european - the French had a penchant for very short jackets) all the way through to the mid-40s.

I don't recall if you dealt with shirt collar style. I've seen images of all the standard modern types - let's say from wide spread to long, pointed -, and some (club, for example) that're quite rare on modern shirts. What is you're take on shirt collar type?


bk

 

[Mr. Rover]

Now, if they?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢re modern pants, they would have to be a size larger then you?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢d wear. You want a deeper seat and deeper pleats so, all you?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢d have to do is take in the waist an inch and presto! You have a pair that you can wear properly with out ?¢‚Ǩ?ìcrowding?¢‚Ǩ? if you know what I mean.

I actually have found this principle to be true in some cases. Normally, I would never wear pants a size too large, but I found that Nautica in Asia cuts very close to the label size. I bought a size 30 for my 29 waist, and found that it hits just at my navel and looks very vintage. I have 3 pairs- one cotton, one corduroy, and one wool/cotton blend. All of them are made of heavy draping material and look very retro.

 

[WEEGEE]

OTHER PERIODS

Is there a compiled list for all periods from 1920's to 60's ?

The fit thing is most fascinating...tight/loose...the long or short of it and

where it falls.


Thanks for the info Wild Root:cheers1:

 

[Zach R.]

This thread might be a good candidate for a sticky, it'd probably help all of the newbies out there with their most basic questions.

 

[Wild Root]

Would the pants have pleats?

Big Joe

Remember, it depends on your personal taste as it did in the 40's. My self, I'd go with pleats because it offers more room and a fuller drape which will pull of the 40's look I'd say easier. Most people associate pleats with the 40's so, to answer your question.... yes! Go with pleats.

BK, very good point! I forgot to mention the sleeve length. Shame on me! As a good rule of thumb, the sleeves should hang a hair lower then one's wrist to allow some shirt cuff to show.

You also mention the shirt collars... I know exactly what you mean! I see many modern styled or modern looking collars in old movies too. That's one reason why I didn't mention the shirts. But, I'll mention it now. Striped shirts are also very vintage looking! I love finding nice vintage like striped dress shirts in thrift shops! Some of them fit and look very vintage and I save a bundle!

Now, I used the date 1941 as an example for those who want to dress 40?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s style or some one who want to dress to that year alone. Short fitting coats were every where into 1941 because of men still wearing their 30's stuff. Mostly, those who were up to date in ?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢41 were movie stars and men of the ?¢‚Ǩ?ìupper crust?¢‚Ǩ?.

=WR=

PS. Since I can't seem to post fast enough, I'm glad you guys like this thread and there are some good ideas and suggestions! You guys are great!

PPS. If you have any specific questions, please send me a PM. Consider me the vintage consultant of the lounge.

 

[3PieceSuitGuy]

My Two Cents

I have always found Vintage ads and catalogues to be a great reference for getting the look right. You can even just browse ebay and see how to get the look right.

With the rise for trousers you can also buy a long fitting instead of a regular (that's if you normally wear a regular fitting), this will give you a longer rise in the trousers so that they will sit in the right place for vintage. Of course when you do this you may need to get the sleeves of the jacket taken up but at least you get a higher rise in the trousers.

Cheers

Peter

 

[Matt Deckard]

For the sake of continuity in descriptions, lets stick to the fit of the 40's in this thread.

20's 30's 50's and 60's suits went through many changes. I think alot of the changes started mid decade. 1945-1954 suits looked very different from suit made in 1935-1944.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

And that's because a decade doesn't hit its stride until the fourth or fifth year. (Anyway, what is a "decade"? It's an artificial notion.)

What we now picture "the '60s" really got going in 1964 or '65, and ended in about '74 with Nixon's resignation. "The '70s" began with glam rock and punk in '75, and ended with the demise of new wave in the mid-'80s.

 

[Matt Deckard]

And that's because a decade doesn't hit its stride until the fourth or fifth year. (Anyway, what is a "decade"? It's an artificial notion.)

What we now picture "the '60s" really got going in 1964 or '65, and ended in about '74 with Nixon's resignation. "The '70s" began with glam rock and punk in '75, and ended with the demise of new wave in the mid-'80s.

Thankfully new wave is still vogue.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

In your basement rec room?

 

[Doc.Freddy]

hello rob

Well Rob i hope you dont mind but im just killing time and tring to met the requirements. But i do agree with the "How to Wear a Suit". well i hope to see you soon.

 

[Tony in Tarzana]

Hey, Doc, welcome aboard!

The trouble with this website is that I'm finding fault with all the newer stuff in my wardrobe.

For example, I have some fairly comfortable all-cotton long sleeve shirts that for some reason have the shoulders extending a good 2 inches past my actual shoulder. (And I ain't exacty narrow!) I don't understand the purpose of that, as it seems to keep the shirt from moving with me, and it contributes (along with armholes so low that I look like a flying squirrel if I put my arms out) to my shirttails coming out if I reach up.

 

[DanielJones]

Thank you WR this is very helpful information.:eusa_clap
Now, would this information go for a zoot suit as well, high armholes for the coat and a small breakin the trousers, along with the snug jacket? Or do they follow a different set of decorum altogether? I have a Vogue zoo suit pattern that I have yet to make. I just need to find the right fabric & local taylor to get the job done.

Cheers!

Dan

 

[J. M. Stovall]

What is the rule, if there is any, on cuffing pants (suit and dress pants)?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

"Golden Era" width: about 1 3/4", sometimes 2". (Depends on your taste and height. Taller men go with wider cuffs.)

You can have your tailor put cuffs on every type of trousers except jeans, tuxedo pants and striped "wedding" pants (the grey kind, worn with a morning coat). Some tailors think that cuffs look bad on heavier pants, such as corduroys. I think it looks fine. You decide.

.

 

[J. M. Stovall]

What about a pair of military style pinks or any of the dress uniform pants?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

No. However, I've seen photos of British officers in World War I who wore khaki military trousers with cuffs. Mostly those serving in the Middle East and North Africa. Must have collected a lot of sand and dust in those cuffs!

.

 

[Matt Deckard]

Actually i think the cuffs look better on heavier weight fabrics.

Watch the movie Swing ime starring Fred Astaire. The story of the movie is guided by a man misguided about cuffing trousers.

I cuff all my trousers accept for ones I see as more toward the casual casual or work wear like jeans or khakis. When cuffs came about they were looked at as the less dressy look, turning up your trousers so they wouldn't get wet in the puddle kind of thing. Now to me they are pretty dreey as I see them as not being the norm. Though for the high high class occasions where you wear a tux and morning coat or tails, cuffs are out of place.

I prefer the 1 3/4 cuff. Too narrow and there is no point!