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How to properly clean and care for a 1950s greatcoat?

EarlGrey

New in Town
Messages
23
Location
NYC
Hi guys, back again with my greatcoat questions. I couldn't find anything comprehensive about how people actually clean and care for their coats, so I thought I might ask.

I have on my hands a British Civil Defense Greatcoat, made in 1952 by Raper & Bainbridge. I've been staring at this thing for two weeks now, at a loss as to how to address the following.

1) How do people generally clean these antiques? Send them to be dry-cleaned? Wash by yourselves using woolite or some other wool cleaner? Is it even safe for a modern day dry-cleaner to touch something this old? The coat does not seem to have any funky odors, so should I even bother cleaning it?
2) The coat was probably crammed away in the dark corner of some surplus shop, and has developed quite a few slight fold creases here and there. I know a dry-cleaning will take care of these. However, on the off chance that I shouldn't take this relic to be dry-cleaned, what are some other options available to straighten out the fabric?
3) All the buttons will need to be resewn, and I'll probably request the tailor redo them with backer buttons. Is there anything else to watch out for? I'm tempted to see if the tailor can use 1-lb thread to recreate the original sewing as much as possible, however I don't think most tailors these days even carry 1-lb thread, much less the waxed cotton thread I suspect the coat originally used.

Thanks again for any input or suggestions!
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
You need a high quality dry cleaner who understands the fabric and its needs. I'm sure NYC would have some of the best of these in the world. Obviously wool fabric like that is destroyed by hot water. I'd be interested to learn if you can wash it in a bathtub in luke warm water with a specialist cleaning product. Rinsing and drying will not be easy.
 
Last edited:

Rabbit

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,561
Location
Germany
Welcome to the Lounge, Earl.

A 1950s heavy overcoat, and a C.D. Greatcoat at that, is not an antique by any standard. I'm not saying this to contradict you, but to put your mind at ease. C.D. Greatcoats of that era are built like a tank and will outlive any of us.
A good dry-cleaner will do wonders with a coat as well-made as this one, and I'm sure finding a good cleaner is not a problem at your location. A good cleaner will press the garment by hand, not semi-automatic (mounted on an air-filled mannequin-like thing).
In passing I'll note that even if an overcoat has been stored improperly over decades and suffered from exposure to dust etc., it wil only improve by a proper dry-clean.

As for the button thread - if you're particular about the thread, search for a similar thickness and wax it and sew it yourself. I use a very strong thread for such purposes, don't know how it's called in your country; we have "titan thread" made of linen here in Germany. On the other hand, why bother about the one part of the coat that won't even be seen, assuming you're still using the original C.D. buttons.
 

Doctor Damage

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,324
Location
Ontario
I have a British greatcoat from the 1950s too and I agree with Rabbit it's nearly indestructible and dry cleaning won't hurt it. You will have to get it cleaned anyways before a tailor or alterations person replaces the liner or does any work on it. I have a friend who washes his $1,500 camel hair overcoat himself in his bathtub every few years, so it can be done. But I don't recommend it since I think it's a roll of the dice, esp if you have no experience in these matters.
 

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