How to Have a Bespoke Tailor Make a Vintage Suit?

[Rian Ó Ruairc]

We have a really good master bespoke tailor here in my town (by all accounts). I'd like to see if he has any experience in making a vintage style suit (early 1940s style); and if he doesn't, I'd like to see if he'd be willing to do one.

Anyone have experience with this sort of thing? Would I just take him some photos of suits from that era that I like?

 

[scotrace]

This is a major topic-- it's not that simple. Have you poked around the threads? There's a tremendous education to be had here.

 

[Rian Ó Ruairc]

This is a major topic-- it's not that simple. Have you poked around the threads? There's a tremendous education to be had here.

I have indeed. Maybe I didn't search for the right things? Do you have any links to related threads you could share?

 

[scotrace]

The Vintage Tailoring thread is a good starting point:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?63545-The-Vintage-Tailoring-Thread&highlight=Tailoring

 

[Stanley Doble]

Why don't you ask him? As in, "I would like to buy a suit in a 1940s style, can you help me?"

In Britain you may need to be careful as "austerity" or "rationed" clothing was the law from 1940 and 41 on, and tailors were restricted in what they could make, in the interest of conserving cloth.

As late as the early fifties "prewar" suits and material were sought after, as being of better quality than anything made since.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

The best thing would be to bring an original (even if it is the wrong size) and discuss details in person. It's useful if you know these details yourself and are able to explain them.
For example it doesn't really work if you ask for big lapels. Chances are it will look like something from the seventies. So it's better to have something to copy and only change minor details.

 

[Fastuni]

Just as Floey said.
Get an original in a cut you prefer - even if it is damaged, discolored, too small and otherwise unwearable - and have the tailor copy it.

Saves hours of talking about details - one forgets to mention half of it and there is always the possibility of misunderstanding.

I promised you to look whether I have originals your size - unfortuntely they are all either too small or short.
But if you want to have a cheap, damaged original European suit in small size as a template to copy I can certainly help you.

 

[Two Types]

Have you looked at this thread http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...us-your-vintage-inspired-suits&highlight=show

This has examples of 'vintage inspired' suits.

As someone with some experience of this (with both good and bad results) I would certainly recommend discussing the matter closely with the tailor. He may even have some period cutting books and have some idea of how to get the look you want. If he isn't enthusiastic or doesn't listen to your thoughts, go somewhere else. He will need to have genuine interest to produce what you need. And even with all the enthusiasm in the world he could still get the lapel shape wrong. Lapels are tricky beasts at the best of times. I have a wonderful suit that I seldom wear because the lapels are just a bit off for my tastes.

Fastuni's idea about copying a suit is a good one. If you can find the right suit in unwearable condition then he can rip it apart to make a template.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

And lapels are almost obvious compared to shoulders and waist suppression. Explaining the right kind of shoulder without an actual example is really difficult.

 

[GHT]

There's a tailor in London's South Kensington, name of Rob Crossley, that I have been going to for years. Have a look at his galleries, see if there's anything that you like and ask your tailor if he can produce something similar. Rocacha. Before someone put me in touch with Rob, I, like you, knew of a good tailor that had survived the mass produced, ready to wear, era. I showed him a photo, taken just at the end of WW2, it was that of my Dad in his demob suit, I asked the tailor if he could reproduce it. He could, but he wanted just short of fifteen hundred pounds to do so. Rob did it, using pure wool, for £625. Admittedly, it's unlikely that pure wool would have been the material of choice for demob suits, but I'm not such a purist. I've probably posted the photos somewhere, but I cannot remember on which thread, if you want to see the demob suit and Rob's handy work, just ask, I will post them again.

 

[Two Types]

Have a look at my blue double breasted suit in the 'vintage inspired suits' thread. It was made for me by Qirel, a member of the Fedora Lounge based in Norway. He could make you a suit. And he knows all about vintage style.