How should jackets fit?

[Americanaaa Mark]

What are yall's thoughts on jacket fits?

When it comes to a jacket how much room should it have? How many inches do you add to your chest when ordering?

For me I've been adding about 2 inches for a fitted look so for a dpocket I would usually order whichever has a size 43'' chest since I'm 41'' actual measurement.

What are some rule of thumb things you keep in mind when deciding on a size? IE: 1-3 inches from actual chest is slim fitted, 4-6 is normal fit, 7+ is loose.

 

[AdeeC]

What are yall's thoughts on jacket fits?

When it comes to a jacket how much room should it have? How many inches do you add to your chest when ordering?

For me I've been adding about 2 inches for a fitted look so for a dpocket I would usually order whichever has a size 43'' chest since I'm 41'' actual measurement.

What are some rule of thumb things you keep in mind when deciding on a size? IE: 1-3 inches from actual chest is slim fitted, 4-6 is normal fit, 7+ is loose.

I have a 39inch chest. Two inches added would be too tight around the chest on a leather jacket for me. Cloth maybe OK. Three will be my bare minimum, preferably four. I guess there are a lot of variables in upper body shape also to consider.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Good question - pity there's no definitive answer. People have different views on trim fit versus looser fit and this can vary with the pattern you choose too. A cafe racer for instance needs to be a trimmer fit than some others.

If you're just talking about chest size I would work this out by finding a jacket that fits as you like it and then measuring under the arm pits across the chest. A denim or similar jacket is a good stand in for a short half-belt.

I am 40 inches relaxed - I prefer around 22.5 to 23 inches across the chest in leather jackets (and pretty much any jacket). In other words, about 45 inches around the chest. Size wise this is generally a 42 to 44 depending on pattern and/or maker. I can take a little more in a longer, looser fit.

It's not an exact science.

 

[AdeeC]

Good question - pity there's no definitive answer. People have different views on trim fit versus looser fit and this can vary with the pattern you choose too. A cafe racer for instance needs to be a trimmer fit than some others.

If you're just talking about chest size I would work this out by finding a jacket that fits as you like it and then measuring under the arm pits across the chest. A denim or similar jacket is a good stand in for a short half-belt.

I am 40 inches relaxed - I prefer around 22.5 to 23 inches across the chest in leather jackets (and pretty much any jacket). In other words, about 45 inches around the chest. Size wise this is generally a 42 to 44 depending on pattern and/or maker. I can take a little more in a longer, looser fit.

It's not an exact science.

I also tend to believe the slimmer one is the tighter the clothes they can wear comfortably. When I used to box and do gymnastics I weighed 53kg and could wear the tightest jacket like a 36 without sacrificing comfort or movement. Now although still quite trim at 67kg tight clothes are somewhat restrictive and uncomfortable. The free body movement is not there anymore.

 

[Edward]

I wear anywhere between a 42 and a 48 in size, depending on how they are measured. I consider myself to be an average 44, maybe edging into a 46 in some stuff (usually higher end I'm the larger size). I like a jacket to measure 48" in the chest to have a good fit on me - that's reasonably trim without being silly-skin-tight. 50" is good if it's something I want to wear a sweater under in Winter.

 

[Plumbline]

For leather jackets I like my chest 42" relaxed plus 4" for a bike jacket and up to 6" for 1/2" shearling and 8" for 3/4 - 1" shearling. However, there's nothing better than actually trying it on TBH ( which is why the " fit jacket" concept is so good )

No two jackets are "exactly" the same .... even in the same style, from the same manufacturer in the same leather.
Measurements are only a guide and so much relates to "cut"

I like my jackets a little looser than most here .. I like to be able to breathe with it zipped up and not feel restricted. I also like the flexibility of a little bit of layering or perhaps a Forcefield Armour Shirt on a bike jacket .. but that's just me. I know some who like the full "Insurrection fit" equally I've met some who prefer a looser casual fit.

Looking for a formulaic solution to jacket fit is almost an impossibility IMHO ..... you have to try things on ... it's like trying to buy good fitting shoes by size only ( manufacturer / leather / last / sole ) all play their part as do what socks you wear .


Just MHO

 

[Monitor]

I dunno, any way you'd like.

 

[Seb Lucas]

For leather jackets I like my chest 42" relaxed plus 4" for a bike jacket and up to 6" for 1/2" shearling and 8" for 3/4 - 1" shearling. However, there's nothing better than actually trying it on TBH ( which is why the " fit jacket" concept is so good )

No two jackets are "exactly" the same .... even in the same style, from the same manufacturer in the same leather.
Measurements are only a guide and so much relates to "cut"

I like my jackets a little looser than most here .. I like to be able to breathe with it zipped up and not feel restricted. I also like the flexibility of a little bit of layering or perhaps a Forcefield Armour Shirt on a bike jacket .. but that's just me. I know some who like the full "Insurrection fit" equally I've met some who prefer a looser casual fit.

Looking for a formulaic solution to jacket fit is almost an impossibility IMHO ..... you have to try things on ... it's like trying to buy good fitting shoes by size only ( manufacturer / leather / last / sole ) all play their part as do what socks you wear .


Just MHO

He was just looking for a rule of thumb, not a formulaic solution. Sensible to try to find one, it saves a lot of money.

I have rarely tried on a jacket in person and I buy off the net sight unseen all the time. I have rarely, if ever, gotten a bad fit. If you know your measurements you're most of the way there.

Where it gets harder is if you are very tall or very short or stick out in odd places on account of a Twinkies fetish. Individual tailoring may be the only answer then.

 

[Edward]

He was just looking for a rule of thumb, not a formulaic solution. Sensible to try to find one, it saves a lot of money.

I have rarely tried on a jacket in person and I buy off the net sight unseen all the time. I have rarely, if ever, gotten a bad fit. If you know your measurements you're most of the way there.

Where it gets harder is if you are very tall or very short or stick out in odd places on account of a Twinkies fetish. Individual tailoring may be the only answer then.

Certainly knowing your own measurements and what 'works' is half the battle, though that still leaves the question of cut. The biggest enemy of buying second-hand jackets by mail, imo, is sellers who have no clue how to size or measure. I've seen it all, from those who can't read a tape measure via those who think saying "It's a medium" as if there were such a universal thing, right through to those who think that "chest size" means the actual jacket measurement, but don't say that, leaving you to open the parcel to discover that "size 42" is actually a 38....... and is labelled as such, had they but bothered to look in the inside pocket....

 

[willyto]

Even if you have the whole measurements there are a lot of different cuts out there in leather jackets and some might not work for you. I have jackets from 21 inches to 22,5 pit to pit and all of them work, the chest is only one measurement to have in mind, it doesn't say everything about a jacket, some are cut wider in that area and then slim in the waist. The armhole is higher or lower, might have an action back, the shoulders... the sleeve lenght varies a lot if the arm is cut in different ways, some sleeves ride up and some don't.

Also the lining plays a big role in the fit, it's not the same to have a cotton or rayon lining than having a wool lining.

I have some vintage ones labeled from 38 to 42 and all of them fit me the same way I like, a fitted look without being restrictive. Not a single one of them has the same cut or measurements but all work. Online can be a gamble. After being able to buy in person after trying them for me it's difficult to trust online buying if the seller doesn't know what he's measuring. I bought a jacket kast year that was a 42 size with 22,5 inches pit to pit and seller listed it as 42 inches but I got lucky and the jacket fits me like a glove because the cut is supposed to be like this although those measurements should be too big for me.

 

[A-1]

Even if you have the whole measurements there are a lot of different cuts out there in leather jackets and some might not work for you. I have jackets from 21 inches to 22,5 pit to pit and all of them work, the chest is only one measurement to have in mind, it doesn't say everything about a jacket, some are cut wider in that area and then slim in the waist. The armhole is higher or lower, might have an action back, the shoulders... the sleeve lenght varies a lot if the arm is cut in different ways, some sleeves ride up and some don't.

Also the lining plays a big role in the fit, it's not the same to have a cotton or rayon lining than having a wool lining.

I have some vintage ones labeled from 38 to 42 and all of them fit me the same way I like, a fitted look without being restrictive. Not a single one of them has the same cut or measurements but all work. Online can be a gamble. After being able to buy in person after trying them for me it's difficult to trust online buying if the seller doesn't know what he's measuring. I bought a jacket kast year that was a 42 size with 22,5 inches pit to pit and seller listed it as 42 inches but I got lucky and the jacket fits me like a glove because the cut is supposed to be like this although those measurements should be too big for me.

Love your style @willyto!

Concerning the fit, there is no strict rule for that. I’m a 41“ chest and had a 43,5“ jacket that fit me well and a 46“ jacket that was waaaay too tight. The cut, the lining, the thickness of the leather and so many other factors are important.
I think that chest-wise, I have quite a range of width I can go with. From 43 - 48“, depending on the style, might fit me. (College jackets are wider in the chest, whereas a Café Racer needs to be more fitted.)
However to me the length, though it cannot be separatedly seen from the chest, is more decisive! There is not much room for different measurements there for me. In my opinion a jacket rather looks stupid when it’s too long, seldom when it’s too short. I like shorter jackets better than when they`re too long, but that’s just my opinion I guess.

But all in all, the most important thing is that you feel awesome in your jacket, because you’ll wear it all the time then!

 

[bn1966]

Last two major purchases: ELC A-1 & ELC Hartmann, both size 48, A-1 is like a snug leather cardigan & the Hartmann..more a tailored Bike jacket..both short...slightly higher numbers on the Hartmann

 

[ton312]

I agree with Monitor. The only jacket that fits is the one you feel good wearing.

 

[Peacoat]

Rule of Thumb for leather jackets: A measured chest size of 42" will do well with 4" added to the jacket which gives a jacket p2p of 23". The thickness of the leather will make a difference in this measurement. I have a Schott Cafe Racer that measures 22.5" p2p and a Johnson Leathers that measures 24.5" p2p. Both have a fit in the chest that are about the same. The Johnson is substantially thicker than the Schott. For a tighter fit, the 4" standard should be reduced. How much is up to the wearer.

For peacoats the rule of thumb is 2" more in the coat than the measured chest size. For example, a measured chest of 42" will have a coat p2p of a little over 22" (outside diameter of 44"). So the type of material used in the shell, as well as the thickness of the shell is a variable that must be considered.

 

[navetsea]

depends on the style of the jacket and your general body shape I guess, if your chest is wider than your waist/hip then you can go smaller but if not, perhaps you better add some more in the chest so the jacket won't look pearshaped