How old is this hat please?

[Viviene]

I'm trying to learn more about vintage menswear and have found a very nice Dobbs fedora. It is dark gray with a 2 1/4 inch brim, is 5 inches tall from base to the top of the hat and has a 2 inch wide grosgrain ribbon around it. It also has a very thin cord with a small button which slides through a small loop at the end of the cord.

On the sweatband there are two stamps. One says "Dobbs Twenty" with a carriage and hourse emblem. The other says "Guild Edge 8."

The hat is a bit dusty. The only problem I see with the hat is that where the tear drop crease was made in the front the felt is split. It is a 1/4 inch L-shaped split.

Question I have are:
1. Does anyone have a diagram of a hat available that actually names the different part of a hat. I feel like a fool trying to describe things I don't know a lot about and would love to know the correct names.
2. Can you tell from the information I've provided any idea how old this hat is? What does one look for when dating a hat? Wider rim? Higher rise?
3. How major is the split in the hat in reference to selling the item. I'm very picky about what I sell and I don't want unhappy customers.

Please pay no attention to the color as these are quickly taken pictures and if I do sell this better photographs will be taken. Finally, here are a few photos of the hat:

Any shiny areas on the ribbon are from my camera. The ribbon is clean other than a little bit of dust.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

We need to see the inside (sweatband and liner).

And just for my interest, a close up of the edge of the brim.

bk

 

[scotrace]

Yes, must see inside.

The split affects value significantly. For most, it's a deal killer. That split makes it a "Yard Hat" - throw it on to go mow the grass.

One cannot accurately date a hat by brim width, crown height, or ribbon style (with certain notable exceptions). You need the whole picture, including all interior markings.

Parts of a hat:

Crown, brim, ribbon, bow, wind cord, edge binding, overwelt edge, underwelt edge, cavanagh edge, sweatband, liner, decorative inside back bow, stitching, etc.

 

[Viviene]

Thank you gentlemen. I'll be back with more photos.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Crown, brim, ribbon, bow, wind cord, edge binding, overwelt edge, underwelt edge, cavanagh edge, sweatband, liner, decorative inside back bow, stitching, etc.

^^^^^

Just in case you were thinking of doing a little keyword spamming . . .

bk

 

[Viviene]

No keyword spamming here gentlemen! I don't sell on Ebay! Thank you very very much for the terminology. That will go a long way toward helping me!

Okay, so now I know that this hat is a hat for a boys dress up box along with the cowboy hats I have (traditionalist that I am). I know the interior leaves a lot to be desired as evidenced by the dirty satin lining as well.

Here are a few photos. This one definitely won't be sold but I'll keep it to learn from.

 

[Mr. Rover]

The black sweatband usually puts hats post-50s but there is an incongruity with the oilskin top of the liner. It's usually associated with earlier hats.

 

[Art Fawcett]

Vivienne, this appears to be a late 50's Dobbs of high quality for it's day. With the tear, it's day is gone, but new this was an expensive hat. As a vintage person you know that the rust color spots on the liner is "foxing" just from age and will soak out if you so choose. The onionskin protector a the top of the lining is another indicater of expense when making. Rover is right, the black leather is an indicator of 1960s but it isn't unreasonable to think this is just a bit earlier. The "guild edge" is the Dobbs name for the Cavanaugh edge, patented by the Cavanaugh company and was licensed to others. Stetsons name for it was "Mode Edge" if I remember correctly.
Hope this helps

 

[mingoslim]

Sure . . . it is not a dress hat any more . . .

But it still looks like it could be a nice "beater" . . .

 

[Feraud]

With some care I can see that hat lasting another 50 years.

 

[Viviene]

Gentlemen,

I thank you so very much for your assistance. I believe I shall keep this hat as a reminder of what to look for and what to be aware of. It makes a great study piece for me since I'm truly a novice in mens vintage.

After Marc pointed out the other day on another thread the lack of mens vintage where I sell I made a decision to try to educate myself more on the things you would be interested in. This is a start. Thank you so much for taking the time to help me out. I now have a file (on computer) and printed out on paper of what you've told me here. It now goes in my vintage notebook for reference.