How much cloth is required to make a suit?

[Tenorclef]

So what this guy is saying?

[video=youtube;p9mh5Di6e1E]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9mh5Di6e1E[/video]

 

[Tenorclef]

I should add trousers always seem like an issue for me as my inside leg is around a 27" and trousers don't typically come in this size (certainly not round here) so typically a call to an alteration shop is called for.

 

[cookie]

Apologies if this has already been asked and i know its probably asking how long is a piece of string.

I'm considering buying the cloth to have a suit made. Interested in a Harris Tweed Nut Brown Herringbone cloth but still unsure if I'm wanting a 2 or 3 piece suit or SB or vintage style DB.

If it helps i'm a 46s jacket and 40" waist.

Thanks,

TC

DB = 4 metres safely and SB 3 metres. Working on 150/160cm width.

 

[Tenorclef]

The jacket is a nicer fit now, I had an inch taken off the arms. I've just ordered another 2 metres of fabric as I've decided I'd like to also have a flat cap and matching pair of plus fours made for when I get involved in the local 'tweed run' and possible other tweed run's held around the UK.

 

[Tombrooks621]

probably 4 meters, mate. good luck!

Apologies if this has already been asked and i know its probably asking how long is a piece of string.

I'm considering buying the cloth to have a suit made. Interested in a Harris Tweed Nut Brown Herringbone cloth but still unsure if I'm wanting a 2 or 3 piece suit or SB or vintage style DB.

If it helps i'm a 46s jacket and 40" waist.

Thanks,

TC

 

[Tomasso]

It's amusing that folks are still answering the question well after the suit has already been made up.

 

[Tenorclef]

It's amusing that folks are still answering the question well after the suit has already been made up.

Hahaha...yes people don't even bother reading threads now.

 

[AntonAAK]

That is a lovely fabric, Tenorclef. The suit looks great on you.

 

[Mario]

Now that's funny. Going through this thread again I thought the tweed samples you posted looked somewhat familiar, that is they made me think of the samples from the Harris Tweed And Knitwear site from which I just ordered one metre for a newsboy cap.

 

[Txmason]

Where could I get a suit made? I've never had one before and not sure what one should appropriately cost. I am a big guy too.

 

[Chief000731]

Apologies if this has already been asked and i know its probably asking how long is a piece of string.

I'm considering buying the cloth to have a suit made. Interested in a Harris Tweed Nut Brown Herringbone cloth but still unsure if I'm wanting a 2 or 3 piece suit or SB or vintage style DB.

If it helps i'm a 46s jacket and 40" waist.

Thanks,

TC

9 yards. So you will be dressed to the nines...

 

[Stanley Doble]

Trousers and sleeves are both a touch too long, otherwise kudos to you and your tailor.

*Mr. Grainger voice* "You'll find they ride up with wear." ha ha sorry couldn't resist.

On a related question, no one has mentioned having a second pair of trousers made. I thought this was something they did or am I mistaken?

 

[PeterB]

Hi everyone,

I just found this interesting forum, and was accepted by the moderators today. Please advise concerning the following:
I always get my local tailor (in Dubai) to make two pairs of trousers for my suits. Because I prefer high waisted trousers and fairly roomy jackets, he tells me I need five yards. When he says a yard, does he mean 100 cm (if it were a meter) or 150 cm (I know a yard is not divided into cms, but I see cloth sold online by the meter, even in England), meaning 1.5 yards, to the yard, if that is not confusing. The reason I ask is that if I order five meters from an online shop, will it be enough for the five yards that the tailor needs?

Would appreciate guidance from members.

Best regards,

Peter

 

[brendanm720]

Please advise concerning the following:
I always get my local tailor (in Dubai) to make two pairs of trousers for my suits. Because I prefer high waisted trousers and fairly roomy jackets, he tells me I need five yards. When he says a yard, does he mean 100 cm (if it were a meter) or 150 cm (I know a yard is not divided into cms, but I see cloth sold online by the meter, even in England), meaning 1.5 yards, to the yard, if that is not confusing. The reason I ask is that if I order five meters from an online shop, will it be enough for the five yards that the tailor needs?

Peter, when he says "yards" that is the "running length" of the fabric -- i.e. how long the piece of fabric is. The 100cm/150cm that you mentioned is the "width" of the fabric. You can buy fabric in both yards and meters. It depends on where you purchase the fabric from as to which measurement it's in (e.g. US source would be yards, British source could be either yards or meters, Italian source would be meters).

Judging by the amount of fabric he's suggesting, I'd say he's probably talking about "double width" fabric, which is usually in the range of 150cm or 60in wide. You will most likely need to buy one and a half to double the length purchased if it's "single width". Of course, most cloth that is single width is hand-woven (like tweed) and probably would not be appropriate for Dubai because of its weight.

But to answer your question, yes, 5 meters will also work. A yard is about 92% of a meter (the meter being longer), so you will have a bit left over.

 

[PeterB]

Brendanm720

Thanks very much. I appreciate the detail. Tweed will be for my trips to northern climes, but it is surprising how cold one gets in air conditioned rooms and cars. Will keep in mind tweed would be about nine yards.

Best

Peter

 

[esteban68]

I believe Harris now comes in double width as standard or so my tailor tells me!

 

[Claudio]

HI Peter and welcome!

Regardless of how cold it can get in the aircon you relaly shouldnt be considering tweed in warm climes IMO.

As already stated, make sure the height of the fabric is 150cm (and if it isnt make sure you compensate) and also keep in mind that checks will have more fabric consumption as they need to be 'matched' - and if they are especially large checks, even more so. Another thign to consider is that if it's a tailor doing the actual handin cutting is one thing, if instead it's being cut together with other fabrics that is again another (usually MTM are cut together with other fabrics if I am not mistaken).

 

[Rabbit]

From an Apparel Arts article of summer 1933:

The problem of the influence of the sun’s rays upon the body is one which has had a great deal of
attention and it has been determined, recently, that the use of materials of red or orange color may be of
benefit in the tropics for the protection of the body from the actinic rays which are believed to act
prejudicially to the human system. These colors are found in linings of native clothing, as well as in many
of the natural fabrics as dyed by the natives in India. Thus soldiers, traders, and explores, who have long
known, through the intuitions of the natives, what science is only beginning to find out for itself.
Witness the woolen material called solaro, in which a red thread is woven in the cloth, forming a lining
which gives this protection from Sun’s actinic rays. Serge, flannel, and tweed are also recommended by
those who have had experience in the tropics, many of whom avoid cotton as a general rule, although it
has been used in fabrics with other materials and found most successful. A popular fabric which has
found favor through years of tropical experience is a cotton and linen gabardine which in many instances
is made to resist rain without interfering with the porous nature of the cloth.

Note that open-weave wool fabrics are not entirely disregarded, while pure cotton with its rather dangerous property of absorbing moisture without wicking it away ("when cotton gets wet, it stays wet") is generally not recommended.

 

[Claudio]

yep, in 1933 Interesting read. Maybe that article is refered to military or exploration use rather than business and leisure? Either way, I dare you to wear tweed in Doha or Kuwait or thereabouts. I too wouldn't suggest cotton, not too fond of cotton suiting personally. Much prefer fine fresco wool fabrics or best of all linen.

Back to the tweed, I have found qunate a feware indeed lower than the usual 150cms so do inform yourslef before purchasing

 

[Rabbit]

Absolutely, always enquire about the width of the cloth. Even Irish linen is sometimes made in single width rather than double width.

Off-topic:
Claudio, you have a point there, about the year I mean. AA and Esquire pretty much always referred to business and leisure wear. Their articles from 1932/1934 to at least the late 40s were rather unique in that they were based on surveys of fashion observers who noted every last detail of what the élite were wearing - and those people had both the time and the inclination to perfect their sense of dressing. The Esquire articles don't depict some quirks of fashion that the industry thinks people should be wearing, but the actual clothes worn by the fashion élite of that time.

I agree that the dry heat of the desert countries wouldn't be the place for tweed. But I can see the possible value of it in tropical climates with a little more salt water in the air, and a steady breeze to go with it. Some tweeds are woven so loosely that you can easily see through it when held against the light.
Nevertheless, the desert people must have gotten onto something by frequently wearing wool.