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How has your taste in leather jackets changed over the years?

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,627
Location
California
I mean the number of times I was asked about my bike, even when wearing non biker styles like my bootlegger, was surprisingly frequent. I think the style is just burnt into people’s brains with an M/C.
Maybe it’s different out here in the Bay Area. I wear cross zips all the time and it is very rare that someone asks me about a motorcycle. When it does happen, I always tell them that I would never ride a motorcycle because they are dangerous. That’s usually the end of the conversation right there.
 

Trouser Bark

One of the Regulars
Messages
227
Location
I exist in your head
When I ponder the question I don't think much has changed.

When I look in my closet the changes are stark.

In the earlier years it was B-3, CR, and that soft and thin caramel colored jacket that was common years ago. The CR's from that era are loud and not the kind of jacket you could wear into a business setting.

Now it's some blousens, understated but higher quality CR's, a LW leather pea which I suppose is a car coat, etc. The one I wear most is a 50 year old Vanson A tricolor. I've got it on now.

Where it used to be loud, obnoxious, and m/c oriented it's now understated and subtle w/ a stronger focus on quality. I've got nine motorcycles and have ridden all over the world but don't think I've ever worn a leather jacket on any of them. That most of the early jackets in my closet have a m/c theme doesn't make sense but must have been important at the time.
 

BB1239

One of the Regulars
Messages
128
When I ponder the question I don't think much has changed.

When I look in my closet the changes are stark.

In the earlier years it was B-3, CR, and that soft and thin caramel colored jacket that was common years ago. The CR's from that era are loud and not the kind of jacket you could wear into a business setting.

Now it's some blousens, understated but higher quality CR's, a LW leather pea which I suppose is a car coat, etc. The one I wear most is a 50 year old Vanson A tricolor. I've got it on now.

Where it used to be loud, obnoxious, and m/c oriented it's now understated and subtle w/ a stronger focus on quality. I've got nine motorcycles and have ridden all over the world but don't think I've ever worn a leather jacket on any of them. That most of the early jackets in my closet have a m/c theme doesn't make sense but must have been important at the
I'd love to see that Vanson tricolor! I've taken several long riding journeys over the years and the leather has so far only seen local use on the bike. Textile options with well-placed vents and armor are so readily available, I've used those by default. I plan to try my Vanson CSRX Avenger which has the perforated leather under the zip-down flaps on my next moto trip, with rain gear in the side case of course. I may regret that choice on a 90 plus degree humid day, but I've come to love leather for the durability and possible protection. One way to find out lol.

My taste is also understated and simple. It's surprisingly difficult to find jackets that meet that sometimes.
 

zebedee

One Too Many
Messages
1,917
Location
Shanghai
I go for lighter hides now - mid-weight leather I find just as protective, more flexible and easier to wear. Goat, if I could find it in a wider range of colours, would be my preference. Vicenza is also great. Steer hide I find too thick and too squeaky. I've just received an SB Car Coat in Mustang black HH, and it seems to be mid-weight.

In general, I go for simpler styles than I did several years ago: I like half-belts and Maxwell or Work Coat styles: I don't think cross-zips are on the horizon.
 
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16,921
My view regarding wearing a motorcycle jacket without a bike nearby has somehow took a 180 turn, completely on its own and now I personally feel very self conscious and off, wearing MC jackets. So odd...
 

Trouser Bark

One of the Regulars
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227
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I exist in your head
I see a reference to motorcycles and leather jackets in these threads a lot. I am a motorcyclist by most rider's standards and have ridden from the top of the world to the bottom and most of the way around.

I can tell you two universal truths through the eyes of nearly any guy that rides. They are:

- 100% of riders would view anyone else they encountered that wore a cross zip as exercising a fashion choice as that jacket would not be practical on a bike. No leather jacket is practical on a bike. Some may still ride in leather but for their own reasons.

- No rider would care what jacket you wore. If a rider saw you walking along while wearing an armored textile riding jacket they would assume you rode... but that is definitely not true of a leather jacket.

Either way, if you wore a leather jacket and did ride a motorcycle they wouldn't care. If you wore a leather jacket and didn't ride a motorcycle they also wouldn't care.

There is zero reason to feel scrutinized or self conscious about jacket choice vs motorcycle ownership and any correlation expired with Marlon Brando's popularity. The Wild One, West Side Story and all of the crappy thematic stories of the 50's are dead.

Wear anything you like. No one will secretly evaluate whether or not you're qualified to wear a particular jacket style.
 

Brandrea33

One Too Many
Messages
1,106
I’ve only ever really been interested in half belts.

I love how motorcycle, car coats, Cossacks look on on other people … just not me.
 

Zoro

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
Europe
On the crosszips and motorcycles, I'm in my mid 30s and while that link has been in the back of my mind/culture, for me they were primarily a metalhead's attire, not a biker's (I would obviously blame Rob Halford). In my circles nobody ever said "what a poser, doesn't even have a bike!" but instead "what a poser, doesn't even like Manowar!".

So of course, when I was 17, I had long hair and a heavy leather crosszip that costed 150€ to be part of the scene. I liked it, I always did, but I did stop wearing it after a year or two as I was the only one looking like that in my group of friends and I didn't want to stand out as "the heavy metal guy".

Today wearing a crosszip doesn't make you stand out and you mostly see women wearing them. In my point of view, it evolved from a metalhead's attire to simply a fashion statement.

As I don't know where my old jacket is and anyway it wouldn't fit me nowadays, I wanted a crosszip as well as a civilian B3 (which many here would just consider a fashion jacket :p). I'm yet to get any of them, and I found this forum because every time I went to a store or ordered a jacket online from "mainstream" shops I was always upset at the quality so I never bought anything. In my mid 30s I'm not rich but I can afford spending money on something that should last me a lifetime.

So far I've only personally seen two jackets in two different shops that caught my eye from afar to the point I had to go and check them out: One was a 1300€ Belstaff Trialmaster, the other one was a 5400€ Ralph Lauren shearling. Those actually looked and felt good, but none of them were what I was looking for (and even if it was, I wouldn't had spent that money on the Ralph Lauren). So I just keep querying, reading the comments over here and little by little find potential options to get me properly started in my leather jacket journey :)
 

Harris HTM

One Too Many
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1,900
Location
In the Depths of R'lyeh
I bought my first leather jacket back in 96 IIRC; it was a cheap motorcycle jacket - I've never ridden a bike but I was really into the thrash scene (and still am but I no longer care to show it off). My first expensive and good leather jacket was a 618 schott back in 2012. Since then, and after around 25 leather jackets I finally came to appreciate lighter hides, with better drape and more relaxed fit.
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,497
My tastes have changed quite drastically over the years. I started getting into leather jackets about 12 or so years ago and my favorite style was the cafe racer. I thought that half belts were boring, I didn't like black leather jackets very much, and I didn't like any cross zips, much less even knew what an aviator jacket was. Additionally, I was pretty scared to get into vintage.

Now I own almost exclusively vintage jackets, love a good simple half belt and black leather jackets, and Aviators are my favorite style of jacket. I've also gotten into vintage wool as well.
 

BB1239

One of the Regulars
Messages
128
My tastes have changed quite drastically over the years. I started getting into leather jackets about 12 or so years ago and my favorite style was the cafe racer. I thought that half belts were boring, I didn't like black leather jackets very much, and I didn't like any cross zips, much less even knew what an aviator jacket was. Additionally, I was pretty scared to get into vintage.

Now I own almost exclusively vintage jackets, love a good simple half belt and black leather jackets, and Aviators are my favorite style of jacket. I've also gotten into vintage wool as well.
I've seen some of your collection on your youtube channel. Very nice indeed! And great vids by the way.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,900
Location
East Java
I used to like symmetrical jacket the most, straight zip, no pockets or a pair of chest pockets, symmetrical collar without one tab dangling on one side more than the other, in some way I still do. but I can tolerate cross zip and learned how to balance things asymmetrically, on cross zip I find it untasteful when both sides have similar chest pockets for example (like Negan's jacket) but then I hate it when on one side it has everything from slant pocket and coin pocket while nothing on the other side, so I try to find someway to make both panels equally "busy" and look balanced to my eyes without being symmetrical.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
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6,900
Location
East Java
I think the connection between MC jacket and being a biker is also depending on the crosszip itself, not all crosszips are created equal, some say "motorcycle" louder than the other, if your crosszip has side laces that scream more biker than one without, if your crosszip has elbow pad or heavily curved sleeve that may look more biker too, and if the kidney panel is stiffened or if there is patch of motorcycle brand on it will heavily add to the biker look, other details you wear like wallet with chain, boots. heavyweight jeans. if you wear MC jacket with a chino and loafers carrying a totebag, nobody will think you ride a bike, probably you might ride a moped or perhaps even e-bike though.
 

Doctor Death

New in Town
Messages
28
On the crosszips and motorcycles, I'm in my mid 30s and while that link has been in the back of my mind/culture, for me they were primarily a metalhead's attire, not a biker's (I would obviously blame Rob Halford). In my circles nobody ever said "what a poser, doesn't even have a bike!" but instead "what a poser, doesn't even like Manowar!".

So of course, when I was 17, I had long hair and a heavy leather crosszip that costed 150€ to be part of the scene. I liked it, I always did, but I did stop wearing it after a year or two as I was the only one looking like that in my group of friends and I didn't want to stand out as "the heavy metal guy".

Today wearing a crosszip doesn't make you stand out and you mostly see women wearing them. In my point of view, it evolved from a metalhead's attire to simply a fashion statement.

As I don't know where my old jacket is and anyway it wouldn't fit me nowadays, I wanted a crosszip as well as a civilian B3 (which many here would just consider a fashion jacket :p). I'm yet to get any of them, and I found this forum because every time I went to a store or ordered a jacket online from "mainstream" shops I was always upset at the quality so I never bought anything. In my mid 30s I'm not rich but I can afford spending money on something that should last me a lifetime.

So far I've only personally seen two jackets in two different shops that caught my eye from afar to the point I had to go and check them out: One was a 1300€ Belstaff Trialmaster, the other one was a 5400€ Ralph Lauren shearling. Those actually looked and felt good, but none of them were what I was looking for (and even if it was, I wouldn't had spent that money on the Ralph Lauren). So I just keep querying, reading the comments over here and little by little find potential options to get me properly started in my leather jacket journey :)
Not only was the cross zip a metalhead's uniform, they were also part of the punk rock scene. The Ramones, The Sex Pistols all wore Schott jackets. Then the New Wave of Heavy Metal had Iron Maiden, Judas Priest and everyone else wearing cross zips.

I think there is an old photo of the Yardbirds back in Christmas 1967 with Peter Grant in a Santa Claus suit and Jimmy Page wearing what looks like a cross zip. So the connection with cross zips and rock music go way back.
 

Will Zach

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,886
Location
SoFlo
When I was living in the NE US, I enjoyed wearing leather jackets during late fall and winter. The weather over there is mostly sunny and dry during that time, if sometimes cold. Leather jackets worked for me. After the move to FL, obviously no leather jackets there. But to my surprise, having spent Sept-Dec in Poland this year, no leather jackets there either. Sept and Oct were super warm, almost like FL, lol, so no need for leather. Nov and Dec temps have been around 38C and DAMP/unpleasant. So I just throw on a toasty N1 deck jacket and I am done. Don't see myself wearing leather here unless it is sheepskin.
 

Bfd70

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,428
Location
Traverse city
I don’t think there’s quite the same cultural connection. I mean the number of times I was asked about my bike, even when wearing non biker styles like my bootlegger, was surprisingly frequent. I think the style is just burnt into people’s brains with an M/C.

There’s also this vibe, which I also feel creeps into the style. Not that there’s anything wrong with it, but it’s just not me.
View attachment 663684

Most guys here don’t feel this way and I salute them but for me the black biker jackets, really most cross zips in general, make a statement I can’t back up or allude to a community I’m not a part of. The same way an A-2 would make me feel quite frankly.

No one has asked where I parked my horse in suede. At least not yet!
The “where is your plane“ while wearing a wwii shearling gets asked 10xs more than “where is your bike.”
 

Zoro

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
Europe
Not only was the cross zip a metalhead's uniform, they were also part of the punk rock scene. The Ramones, The Sex Pistols all wore Schott jackets. Then the New Wave of Heavy Metal had Iron Maiden, Judas Priest and everyone else wearing cross zips.

I think there is an old photo of the Yardbirds back in Christmas 1967 with Peter Grant in a Santa Claus suit and Jimmy Page wearing what looks like a cross zip. So the connection with cross zips and rock music go way back.
Absolutely! In my youth, it was hard to find a place where non-commercial music would play, so in the end the places where they would play metal would also play punk and rock (and eventually shifted to emo as it became the rage of the time as I started to step away from it). Metal was the more popular music over punk and people detached from it would not really tell the difference between metal, rock and punk, so they just claimed we were listening to "heavy metal", thus I just simplified as such.

I did not know those punk bands were wearing Schott specifically though, just that they were wearing crosszips. But now you bring them up, that also reinforces how this just became a fashion statement as wearing tshirts of The Ramones, Sex Pistols, Iron Maiden, Guns N Roses, Motorhead became the trend, with them readily available in fast fashion stores, where you can buy whole look with the tshirt, the [faux leather] crosszip, the studded belt and the ripped jeans.

I think the connection between MC jacket and being a biker is also depending on the crosszip itself, not all crosszips are created equal, some say "motorcycle" louder than the other, if your crosszip has side laces that scream more biker than one without, if your crosszip has elbow pad or heavily curved sleeve that may look more biker too, and if the kidney panel is stiffened or if there is patch of motorcycle brand on it will heavily add to the biker look, other details you wear like wallet with chain, boots. heavyweight jeans. if you wear MC jacket with a chino and loafers carrying a totebag, nobody will think you ride a bike, probably you might ride a moped or perhaps even e-bike though.
This is a good point. Nowadays I do think the person is a biker if they have a jacket with padding or tuff toe boots. The only riders I've seen wearing crosszips were part of a MC Club, which is not a common sight here in Europe.
 

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