How does top stitching factor into your jacket decisions, if at all?

[Carlos840]

I think the way top stitching is defined in this thread can lead to confusion.
Top stitching is just stitching where the thread is visible on the outside of the garment, the opposite of blind stitching, where the thread is invisible.
There is a difference between functional top stitching, and decorative top stitch.

Example 1:

This jacket for example, has a single blind stitched shoulder, and uses flat seams for the arm and back panel.
A flat (fell) seam is a combination of blind stitching and top stitching, but the top stitching there is functional. It goes through all layers of leather folded over themselves.

Example 2:

In this case, the seam on the inside of the arm is a single blind seam, which is pretty standard, but this time the shoulder has a flat seam, which is top stitched once again. Again, this is functional.

Example 3:

In this case, we have a flat seamed shoulder once again, but this time the outer arm seam is a double top stitch seam, also called a french seam. This serves no structural function. It is basically a blind seam, with top stitch running either side holding the fold onto itself, that's it. It doesn't serve a structural function like on the flat seam where the top stitch goes through both folded over pieces. (although you could add a third piece of leather or fabric on the inside of the seam to make the top stitch structural)

All these are different from what @Wdawg posted above, which is just regular triple needle stitching and is done on most work clothes like Carhartt.

 

[handymike]

Regular: (flat/fell)

French:

 

[Maverickson]

Hi All,

Actually French seams are almost the only way all original vintage civilian Monarch's jackets reinforced their seams.

Cheers, Dave

 

[Monitor]

I think the way top stitching is defined in this thread can lead to confusion.
Top stitching is just stitching where the thread is visible on the outside of the garment, the opposite of blind stitching, where the thread is invisible.
There is a difference between functional top stitching, and decorative top stitch.

Example 1:

This jacket for example, has a single blind stitched shoulder, and uses flat seams for the arm and back panel.
A flat (fell) seam is a combination of blind stitching and top stitching, but the top stitching there is functional. It goes through all layers of leather folded over themselves.

Example 2:

In this case, the seam on the inside of the arm is a single blind seam, which is pretty standard, but this time the shoulder has a flat seam, which is top stitched once again. Again, this is functional.

Example 3:

In this case, we have a flat seamed shoulder once again, but this time the outer arm seam is a double top stitch seam, also called a french seam. This serves no structural function. It is basically a blind seam, with top stitch running either side holding the fold onto itself, that's it. It doesn't serve a structural function like on the flat seam where the top stitch goes through both folded over pieces. (although you could add a third piece of leather or fabric on the inside of the seam to make the top stitch structural)

All these are different from what @Wdawg posted above, which is just regular triple needle stitching and is done on most work clothes like Carhartt.

Yep, this!

 

[Carlos840]

This video is pretty good at showing what goes on in a french seam:

Saying that, i don't know if they add a fabric layer at the back when building a leather jacket... Either way, it will always be weaker than a flat seam.


Edit: and to answer the original post, it makes little difference to me. I enjoy the craftsmanship of top stitch if well done, but i also enjoy the simplicity of a blind stitched jacket.
Both can be interesting, both can be beautiful.

 

[jonesy86]

There is a lot going on here.

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[jonesy86]

Not as intricate?

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[JMax]

There is a lot going on here.

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The pocket is single-stitched, send it back. That is beautiful leather though, keep it.

 

[hondurasdave47]

There is a lot going on here.

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Love that leather!

 

[jonesy86]

Here is a bit of what the maker of this jacket said about the seams and stitch work:

I've gotten my double-needle machine set up at 1/4" gap, which is how all the body seams are sewn, and it did a fantastic job. I see why Monarch used these machines for the seams. It's so much easier than rolled seams, which the back yoke and sleeve/body joints use.

 

[jonesy86]

I think I really like the old Monarch designs.

[/IMG]

Here is what this maker said:


Seen last attached on the images are a set of Monarch sleeves. Superior to most all other make jackets as they are created using both French type seams and rotated or inset to the body of the jacket. Thereby adding much to the comfort of the Monarch jacket by adding mobility.

 

[Carlos840]

I think I really like the old Monarch designs.

[/IMG] View attachment 133324

Here is what this maker said:


Seen last attached on the images are a set of Monarch sleeves. Superior to most all other make jackets as they are created using both French type seams and rotated or inset to the body of the jacket. Thereby adding much to the comfort of the Monarch jacket by adding mobility.

Well, he does add a strip of fabric on the back side of the french seams! Nice!
Thanks for these, although i am a bit gutted that you get all this from him, whilst i got nothing but silence for 8 months...

 

[jonesy86]

Good eyes Carlos, I hadn’t noticed the detail on the back side of the French seam.
The photo of these sleeves and the quoted reference were borrowed from the ebay listing of another maker. Wonder how long his lead time is.


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[Carlos840]

Good eyes Carlos, I hadn’t noticed the detail on the back side of the French seam.
The photo of these sleeves and the quoted reference were borrowed from the ebay listing of another maker. Wonder how long his lea time is.


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My bad, i wrongly assumed that was also a GW.
Looks very nice!

 

[jonesy86]

My bad, i wrongly assumed that was also a GW

I think he does custom work. In any case his stuff sure looks nice.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MONARCH-30...vip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m43663.l10137

 

[handymike]

Dave makes beautiful looking jackets. It's great to see the detail shots of his work.

 

[steve u]

jonesy86,
" Wonder how long his lead time is."


I emailed Dave(Maverickson) about one of his Jackets. He said about 4 months for a particular model.(Still trying to convince My Wife, since I just bought a L.W.)
I'm still crossing my fingers......P.S. He seems like he'd be GREAT to work with. steve

 

[navetsea]

you guys really like stitches
I don't really like the after effect of stitching parallel to each other either double stitching or top stitching done with a visible margin to the edge of the fold, as with time it will create rippling/ puckering that looks like ladder or railroad with repeated mini perpendicular folds and puckering created by those parallel stitching line it will fold where the needle holes are and pucker at the interval, if it was done not by double needle machine at one go but with normal single needle twice then these stitching hole might not be exact mirror of each other then it will create criss cross puckering that even more mind boggling to me, that same thing looks fine on jean and denim, even give them character... but on leather I dislike it for whatever reason, maybe because the sheen on leather makes them look like bubbling paints or painted welding line dunno

maybe I have stitchophobia.

 

[jonesy86]

Hi All,

Actually French seams are almost the only way all original vintage civilian Monarch's jackets reinforced their seams.

Cheers, Dave

I wonder if french seams add a certain flexibility in the jacket as the seams give with the body movement, and/or stretch to mold to the wearer.

 

[navetsea]

I think that french seam is more appropriate for multiple ongoing body panels as it connect flat to each other and will crease naturally just like uninterrupted single panel, I think any sudden reinforcement like other kind of stitching constructions on body panel will force creases to bend avoiding the reinforcement and then probably look less natural.