How does top stitching factor into your jacket decisions, if at all?

[Superfluous]

IMHO, top stitching is one of the details that differentiates jacket manufacturers. Certain jacket manufacturers use little or no top stitching. Other manufacturers use greater top stitching. Some manufacturers only use single stitch seams. Other manufacturers regularly employ double stitching along certain seams. Some manufactures add small top stitch details, such as triangles at the end of certain pockets or sleeve zippers. Others do not.

I personally prefer the look of double stitched seams, and conservatively applied top stitching details such as triangles at the ends of certain pockets and sleeve zippers. IMHO, a limited amount of discrete top stitching adds a craftsman appearance to the jacket. The jacket looks a little more finished and refined -- more the product of skilled manufacturing. The top stitching must be discrete, relatively simple, and tied to the essential elements of the jacket (e.g., seams, pockets, zippers, etc.). I do not like random patterns or stitching unrelated to the essential elements of the jacket.

In contrast, I recently viewed photos of a jacket with zero top stitching at the sleeve ends – no cuffs – no top stitch adjacent to the sleeve end – nothing. I was struck by how unfinished the sleeve end looked. IMHO, the sleeve end looked cheap and unskilled – the antithesis of a craftsman look.

To be clear, I am not suggesting that top stitching makes the jacket any stronger or more resilient (although it seems (pun intended) logical that double stitched seams might be stronger, but that is not the point here). Rather, my preferences are based entirely on the aesthetic appearance of the jacket. Additionally, I am not criticizing any brands here based on their use, or non-use, of top stitching. Rather, this thread is solely about personal preferences.

So, what is your personal preference? Do you prefer top stitching? If so, why? If not, why not? What types of top stitching do you favor or disfavor? Do you like double stitched seams? Do you prefer hidden stitching or sleeve ends with no top stitching? How does top stitching factor into your jacket decisions, if at all?

 

[Guppy]

It'd be helpful to explain top stitching vs. other types of stitching, with photos or links.

 

[hondurasdave47]

It'd be helpful to explain top stitching vs. other types of stitching, with photos or links.

Yes, please. Now I’m curious.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Superfluous]

No top stitching:

Top stitching:

The sleeve zipper only needs a single row of stitching to secure it, and most sleeve zippers only have a single row of stitching. This sleeve zipper has a double row stitching and a triangle at the top.

A pocket only needs a single row of stitching to be secure, and most pockets only have a single row of stitching. These two pockets have two rows of stitching and triangles at the end.

Two rows of stitching.

Most shoulder seams have only one row of stitching. This shoulder seam has two rows of stitching.

Most pockets on cross-zips have a single row of stitching. These pockets have two rows.

 

[jacketjunkie]

Generally speaking, I have always seen the stitching as the weak link in a leather jacket, which is why I prefer fewer leather panels and fewer seams.

Aesthetics-wise, I don't think I'm a fan of the double stitching or the triangles at the pockets. However I think it looks great on the shoulders and at the sleeve hems, as on the pictures provided by SF. So I guess it depends on location and amount of this displayed decorative stitching in my books.

I have grown to love what we have established here as "french seams" as Monarch used to do them or few modern makers, mostly high-end japanese ones. Aero does them only on their Original Hercules and for me, they make that model look leagues better than their other half-belts. A few weeks back there was a vtg jacket on ebay, sadly much too big for me, probably a size 44 that even had the american cuffs done with these seams and it looked amazing. Looks much more quality than standard foldover seams as aero does on their american cuffs IMHO. If i had the money to spare for a full bespoke jacket, I'd make sure whoever did it for me, used these seams whereever possible.

 

[ton312]

I think the stitching sf is referring to is more common place on lighter weight hides. They are easier to fold and skiv. Anything over 3-3.5 oz would render folding the leather in that way impossible. I don't think you could get a needle through it.
The Vanson sleeve pictured above is actually not an easy way to finish a sleeve at all. The leather has to hammered into place and attached to the sleeve lining. When it settles and breaks it creates a really beautiful cuff imho. The sleeve cuff JJ posted above is gorgeous but in my vintage collecting experience it's also the weakest, especially around the shoulders.
I personally am not a huge fan of double rows of stitching. To me, less is more in this regard. I prefer the eye not being drawn to the joints of the jacket. I do like the pocket and handwarmer details though. Those are nice finishing touches.

 

[Camaro1967]

I'm of two minds here.

On the one hand, if you're buying a jacket with primarily an aesthetic in mind, or at least there is an aesthetic you find more appealing (or more attractive, or...) than another, you're basically seeking something that gives you greater satisfaction. And if that's the case, I'm certain most of us buy our jackets for similar reasons. The jacket, in some respect or another, gives us pleasure. So, whether that detail happens to be top stitching, for example, and if that detail is a deal-breaker if it's missing, it only makes sense to seek out those jackets (or whatever product it happens to be) that has, at the minimum, those details you find important.

In my case, I don't specifically look for top stitching, but sure, I would certainly notice if the jacket was particularly ornate or equally lacking in detail. My Lost Worlds J-100, for example, I wouldn't call the top stitching conspicuous, but every stitch is perfect and the jacket exudes stellar craftsmanship for other reasons. The cafe racer look is also very plain compared to other types of jackets and I think, in this case, the jacket looks particularly good when simple details like top stitching do not stand out (or detract from the jacket as a whole) because it would otherwise, in my opinion, undermine the beauty and minimalist design of the jacket. Some folks, however, prefer contrast stitching or other stitching details (like the triangles you mentioned near the pockets) that add a little more color or add a certain wow factor. I wouldn't knock anyone for it, but I'd also say not all top stitching for all types of jackets will produce the same desired effect. At least not for me.

On the other hand, if you're buying a jacket with (or in part) appearance in mind, as in, you're buying the product because it has a way of attracting attention or cultivating a certain image of yourself to others (at least among the knowledgeable), any and all details that amplify the look you're going for may be worth considering. And this plays out a number of ways. Among leather jacket aficionados, top stitching often exudes quality and attention to detail. And in forums like The Fedora Lounge and other similar sites, where members are highly educated and attentive to otherwise minute details, I'd be willing to bet most folks outside these forums in our every day lives are not familiar with or interested in these details and simply couldn't distinguish the difference between a Good Wear A2 and a Branson A2 knockoff. You guys could. But try explaining all those details to your wives and justifying the price difference. They would likely roll their eyes and just be thankful it's a jacket and not some other more expensive hobby you're into.

Anyway, point being, some folks do notice these minor craftsmanship details and some folks who do buy jackets or other products do it because it has a way of attracting or projecting a certain image to other like-minded folks who recognize and appreciate these details. In my case, when I rock my Freewheelers Centinela, to those who don't know the product or anything about the history of Leather Togs, I'm just another guy wearing an unusual jacket. But to those who do recognize the product and do know the history of the jacket, or at least appreciate the details that go into a quality jacket, I've had random strangers approach me on the street and we could talk about leather and motorcycles like we've been best friends for years. It's kind of strange in one sense, but this is really no different than people who bond over other things like each having kids or each having had gone to boot camp together. Because there is a shared interest or a shared experience, something as innocuous as top stitching on a jacket may have a way of signaling to others what kind of leather jacket aficionado you are.

To be fair, though, there are likely other reasons that I didn't mention and some will disagree with the reasons I gave.

~.02

 

[Superfluous]

I have grown to love what we have established here as "french seams" . . . for me, they make that model look leagues better . . . Looks much more quality than standard foldover seams

Could not agree more. IMHO, french seams are another sign of craftsmanship that distinguishes certain manufacturers.

I think the stitching sf is referring to is more common place on lighter weight hides. They are easier to fold and skiv. Anything over 3-3.5 oz would render folding the leather in that way impossible. I don't think you could get a needle through it.

Interesting point. I can see how particularly thick leather might be difficult to work with in this manner.

 

[handymike]

When there is top stitching, I appreciate it being done with precision. My grail is a 30s Hercules like @jonesy86 has. If the top stitching were wonky, it would detract from the whole jacket. I wouldn't be one for contrasting stitching per sé, but well done and appropriate top stitching- yes.
I also appreciate simplicity, and well done top-stitching doesn't draw your attention.

 

[Superfluous]

I also appreciate simplicity, and well done top-stitching doesn't draw your attention.

Exactly!

 

[Seb Lucas]

Either, depending on the pattern or leather. Not crazy about the look of double stitching, except maybe shoulders.

 

[rocketeer]

One of those things that pleases the eye. If it looks good I may buy it if it looks bad or overdone I'd probably pass. I have seen repro's of classic jackets that are stitch perfect but the leather is of poor grade or appearance(Highwayman, A2s, G1s etc). Also quality leather garments ruined by poor design or overdone stitching.
Probably the reasons why some styles become classic styles and other's, also rans of classic styles, i.e. A2s with back centre seams.
Just my opinions, J.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Rocket, what's 'overdone stitching'? Do you mean needless, double stitched pockets, etc.

 

[navetsea]

I try to avoid any visible stitching, there are some areas that must have stitching like along the zipper, but for the rest I rather have it sewn only from inside. around the cuff edges I like unstitched cuff only rolled inside and sewn to the liner and pressed, sure when the leather is thick and brand new it might look round but once it's been worn it would take a nice looking roll.

 

[Dav]

I don't think it does at all for me, yes I like it to be neat but the style doesn't really concern me.
I was actually checking out the repairs done on my school jacket the other day, the stitching is diabolical, only took me 34 years to notice, lol.

 

[Wdawg]

The stitching on a leather jacket is guaranteed to fail (in several decades hard use of course) especially if it's only single stitched. Having that extra insurance shows a level of quality, time and consideration in the making of it, so as to have it last as long as you can aesthetically allow.

Obviously more lines of stitching clutter up the appearance, so it only really works for me in certain places. From experience of older leather jackets, sleeves and shoulders are the most likely to break apart.

My Thedi cafe racer is double stitched around the shoulders and sleeves but only single stitched around the chest pockets, whereas one of my Iron Heart shirts is triple stitched in places which is almost a bit too much considering it's contrast stitching. It almost gets you into the territory of making something look like it's built like a tank for the look of it rather than the functionality.

Either way, I'm not ever going to complain about extra stitching until we start getting jackets made of contrast stitching edged with leather.

 

[navetsea]

but in several decades probably it would be the time you would like to replace the liner anyway, and when all the stitching is done from the inside, guarantee the repair won't show, even when the repair is done by other person who doesn't have the same machine or exact thread color. You can even DIY stitch it yourself before it spreads by opening an access from nearby pocket bag into the inside/ backside of the leather

 

[hondurasdave47]

So, dumb question: is top stitching the same thing as French seams?

 

[Monitor]

So, dumb question: is top stitching the same thing as French seams?

Yes and no. It depends. Top stitching usually refers to just any single line of stitching done so to be purposely visible, even though it could've remained hidden. It's mainly decorative and technically, yeah, French seams can be considered top stitching - Though that's something some tailors might disagree on.

Two rows of stitching, as seen on, say, trucker jackets and denim shirts is called Double needle stitching, if I am not mistaken.

 

[hondurasdave47]

Yes and no. It depends. Top stitching usually refers to just any single line of stitching done so to be purposely visible, even though it could've remained hidden. It's mainly decorative and technically, yeah, French seams can be considered top stitching - Though that's something some tailors might disagree on.

Two rows of stitching, as seen on, say, trucker jackets and denim shirts is called Double needle stitching, if I am not mistaken.

Thanks, Ivan!