Hornskov Hats - custom Danish hatter

[jlee562]

What's wrong with Petersham ribbon?

Nothing is wrong with it per se, but decades of tradition dictate that grosgrain ribbon is used in men's hats and petersham is not. There are examples here and there, but the vast majority of men's hats have grosgrain ribbon.

 

[Pellie]

Nothing is wrong with it per se, but decades of tradition dictate that grosgrain ribbon is used in men's hats and petersham is not. There are examples here and there, but the vast majority of men's hats have grosgrain ribbon.

Oh really? I've never known that. But i have no problem with it neither.
But what exactly is the difference between the 2 ribbons? Material?

Edit: i found my answer
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/petersham-or-grosgrain-ribbon.76945/

 

[deadlyhandsome]

What's wrong with Petersham ribbon?

As Jared said, there isn’t anything wrong with it. My personal preference, however, is for a woven edge grosgrain ribbon. Petersham does show up on some vintage men’s hats including the much revered Stetson Flagship. Petersham is much easier to find today then the woven/finished edge grosgrain ribbon. Subsequently, it’s often used in lower quality hats. That’s not to say that all hats with it are low quality. There’s also the issue that most grosgrain ribbon today is polyester and not cotton and rayon like the old stuff was. And to confuse you even more, when you do find a cotton and rayon blend grosgrain ribbon it’s not the same as type of rayon as the vintage ribbon. It’s not to say that you cannot make a good hat with any or all of it, It just has different properties. If you want a vintage look then you are probably better served with a woven finished edge ribbon.

*edited to show cotton and rayon as the materials in vintage grosgrain ribbon.

 

[Pellie]

As Jared said, there isn’t anything wrong with it. My personal preference, however, is for a woven edge grosgrain ribbon. Petersham does show up on some vintage men’s hats including the much revered Stetson Flagship. Petersham is much easier to fine today then the woven/finished edge grosgrain ribbon. Subsequently, it’s often used in lower quality hats. That’s not to say that all hats with it are low quality. There’s also the issue that most grosgrain ribbon today is polyester and not nylon and rayon like the old stuff was. And to confuse you even more, when you do find a nylon and rayon blend grosgrain ribbon it’s not the same as type of rayon as the vintage ribbon. It’s not to say that you cannot make a good hat with any or all of it, It just has different properties. If you want a vintage look then you are probably better served with a woven finished edge ribbon.

Okay, that's also a clear answer. I don't think i have a preference in the 2 ribbons. So that makes it easy for me haha.... Thanks for your answer.

 

[Boomerang]

I also have one on order, but I’m still over a month out.

Cathrine Hornskov told me that they are moving away from petersham ribbon (hurray!), and I politely insisted on a non-petersham ribbon for my hat. I also had them assure me in writing that the hat would be made to my exact dimensions as someone else here reported receiving a hat that was not quite what they had ordered. I went with the 50X Alberti in the Reshapable line. I do hope they add more felt colors to this line.

Sorry I can’t help with a photo, I would have liked to have seen a few myself. Good luck.

Pic or no, I can hear the Hornskov Hat Sirens singing, and my cursor's being drawn to the "place order" button.

 

[Tukwila]

I thought vintage ribbon was rayon and cotton.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I thought vintage ribbon was rayon and cotton.

Yes. There was a disconnect between what I was thinking and what I was typing. Happens more and more lately.

 

[daizawaguy]

All fine choices Gents and I do like a grosgrain myself

 

[daizawaguy]

 

[Pellie]

I love that naturel with the navy ribbon.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

My Hornskov Alberti arrived. This is their 50X (50% beaver) and part of the reshapable line.

The good: the FELT is very nice! It isn’t quite as clay-like as the video and it will spring back just a bit, but it is great felt! It was finished evenly and has a great hand. This felt is as good or better than many of my better vintage hats. It actually reminds me most of my Borsalino Marque Grand Luxe felt. It’s neither thin nor thick, but it’s a great standard dress weight. The dimensions are 6” open crown and 2 7/8 bound brim. The 2” wide sweatband is very thin and unbelievably supple. The hat is 61.5cm and the fit is perfect! I’m not usually a fan of wide brim binding, but I don’t mind it at all on this hat. The liner is sewn in brim binding seam is flawless and the whole hat shows attention to detail. The sweatband does extend down and onto the brim, but that’s a minor issue and doesn’t impact the fit and it’s not visible when worn. I also give them 9.5 out of ten for communication and they only missed out on 10/10 because Mikael at Hufvud set the bar so high.

The bad: I explicitly told them I did not want petersham ribbon. I was told that they were phasing petersham out and that my hat would be made with grosgrain. Immediately upon opening the box I see petersham. Cathrine Hornskov tried to tell me that it was not petersham and that the scalloped edge had nothing to do with petersham? She eventually conceded that the ribbon on my hat is petersham and she offered to take it back to see if they could find grosgrain to replace it with. After a few days I’ve decided to live with it. It really isn’t a bad thing, but it’s not what I wanted, not what I asked for, and not what I was promised. Cathrine also said that in the future I could specify vintage grosgrain or Japanese silk ribbon that won’t be petersham.

Interestingly, this 50X is more re-shapable and more moldable than the 100X pure beaver. It’s all FEPSA felt, but the 50X just has different qualities.

While disappointed over the ribbon, it will order another hat from Hornskov at some point. I have a hat about ready for shipping from Hufvud in FEPSA 100X beaver that I’m curious to compare to this 50X. In any case, I think Hornskov makes a good hat for the price and the 50X reshapable felt is incredible!

 

[daizawaguy]

Lovely hat, and their liners are some of the best around. Yes, the work and felt finish is really some of the best around, and the price is incredible, with free postage. If its any consolation, even their Grosgrains have minute ridges - and I believe these are made so that the ribbon can be shaped in waves - so perhaps they are using a hybrid type. But petersham has been used historically, and I agree I'd keep it if I were you. I'll post a pic of their `Grosgrain` versus Gannon vintage in the next post - frankly I think they are both fine ribbons! Enjoy and wear in health Sir. Fine hat indeed

 

[daizawaguy]

2 Hornskov grosgrain, last is vintage Gannon.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Lovely hat, and their liners are some of the best around. Yes, the work and felt finish is really some of the best around, and the price is incredible, with free postage. If its any consolation, even their Grosgrains have minute ridges - and I believe these are made so that the ribbon can be shaped in waves - so perhaps they are using a hybrid type. But petersham has been used historically, and I agree I'd keep it if I were you. I'll post a pic of their `Grosgrain` versus Gannon vintage in the next post - frankly I think they are both fine ribbons! Enjoy and wear in health Sir. Fine hat indeed

It’s not so much that I hate petersham, but I specified grosgrain and was told it would be grosgrain. I don’t think it’s too much to ask to get the hat I ordered. I was very close to returning it after looking back through my emails where I told them emphatically that I was only interested in the hat if it was grosgrain and not petersham. Cathrine assured me it would not be petersham. Everyone makes mistakes, but I really do prefer the look of grosgrain and I can tell at 10 feet that this is petersham.

Mikael at Hufvud also offers FEPSA 50X and if it’s the same as the Hornskov it will probably be my next hat. Hornskov wins on price, but I’m thinking that the Hufvud will be a bit better made and certainly made with the ribbon I specify.

Can you tell I’m still a little bitter about the petersham issue?

This is not a hybrid. This is 100% typical petersham:

 

[deadlyhandsome]

2 Hornskov grosgrain, last is vintage Gannon. View attachment 282484 View attachment 282485 View attachment 282486

They might call it grosgrain, but it’s not. They can call a dog a cat but that doesn’t make it so. By definition, grosgrain has a woven finished edge. Cathrine said they did have real vintage grosgrain ribbon but that it’s usually reserved for their custom hat projects.

 

[belfastboy]

It’s not so much that I hate petersham, but I specified grosgrain and was told it would be grosgrain. I don’t think it’s too much to ask to get the hat I ordered. I was very close to returning it after looking back through my emails where I told them emphatically that I was only interested in the hat if it was grosgrain and not petersham. Cathrine assured me it would not be petersham. Everyone makes mistakes, but I really do prefer the look of grosgrain and I can tell at 10 feet that this is petersham.

Mikael at Hufvud also offers FEPSA 50X and if it’s the same as the Hornskov it will probably be my next hat. Hornskov wins on price, but I’m thinking that the Hufvud will be a bit better made and certainly made with the ribbon I specify.

Can you tell I’m still a little bitter about the petersham issue?

This is not a hybrid. This is 100% typical petersham:

View attachment 282487

Yes, that is def Petersham, I can spot it from across a room. I remember when you first posted about this order and you stated that the deciding issue was they promised to would switch from the petersham to true grosgrain.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Yes, that is def Petersham, I can spot it from across a room. I remember when you first posted about this order and you stated that the deciding issue was they promised to would switch from the petersham to true grosgrain.

Yep. I thought my instructions were pretty clear too:

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Interestingly, this 50X is more re-shapable and more moldable than the 100X pure beaver. It’s all FEPSA felt, but the 50X just has different qualities.

Brent, I really like the hat.
The combination of the colors of the felt and the ribbons, the shape and the proportions and it suits you very well.
There are some details that, personally, I don't like, but it's just personal taste.
A few notes: quality grosgrain is difficult to find, "vintage" grosgrain is occasionally found on the European market in stock. Regarding the felt, of which I quoted one of your observations: it is normal the rabbit or the hare or a combination of them, are much, much more malleable than the beaver. It is a matter of consistency and "texture"
Enjoy the Alberti which is a awesome hat!

 

[Pellie]

2 Hornskovs on their way to the netherlands.
A cherry blossom center dent with blue fabric, leather cord and embroidered star for my wife and a camel classic teardrop with two-tone trim in navy and dark brown and brim edge in dark brown either. Can't wait to receive them

 

[daizawaguy]

My fourth Hornskov. Grey custom Editor. 100x. The felt is superb.