Himel Canuck

[Superfluous]

I had been looking for a slightly longer engineer/railroad/chore style leather jacket for awhile. Last Fall, RRL released the Stratton. It fit the bill and I pulled the trigger. Then, in December, Nick posted photos of his new Himel Canuck in brown Shinki. The jacket was/is epic and I was awestruck. Unfortunately, I had just purchased the Stratton, which was also dark brown. Therefore, I contemplated a black Canuck. I discovered that Himel was attending Inspiration in February. Therefore, I went to Inspiration to meet the master and seal a deal for a black Canuck. Himel had a black Canuck at Inspiration in my size. As I was trying it on, Nick pulled up wearing his brown Canuck. Damnnnnnnnnn! Nick's jacket was an order of magnitude more stunning in person. Now I was really regretting buying the brown Stratton. Thus, I pulled the trigger on a black Canuck. While I was waiting for Himel to make my black Canuck, I could not stop obsessing over Nick's brown Canuck. My Stratton no longer fit the bill. Thus, I sold my Stratton and ordered a brown Canuck from Himel to join my black Canuck.

Himel's Canuck is based on a 1910 Shanhouse and Sons railroad workers jacket.

I recently received my black Canuck. I love this jacket. The black Shinki is fantastic . . . sturdy and rugged, yet not excessively rigid, with a wonderfully subtle grain. The stitching and craftsmanship are first rate. Most importantly, the jacket fits light a glove. Now, I am on the edge of my seat waiting for the brown Canuck.

The departed RRL Stratton:

Nick's inspiring brown Canuck (posted with Nick's permission):

My black Canuck:

 

[handymike]

That's a real beauty! What are the cuffs lined with? They don't seem to be excessively thick or cumbersome.
Nicely done!

 

[Superfluous]

That's a real beauty! What are the cuffs lined with? They don't seem to be excessively thick or cumbersome.
Nicely done!

The cuffs are lined with the same black cotton as the body. My brown Canuck has corduroy lined cuffs.

The leather on the cuffs is more supple than the body -- its a nice touch.

 

[Fanch]

Looks great. I am becoming more and more a fan of button coats like this one. :thumb:

 

[handymike]

The cuffs are lined with the same black cotton as the body. My brown Canuck has corduroy lined cuffs.

The leather on the cuffs is more supple than the body -- its a nice touch.

Which option do you prefer? I'm trying to decide for my upcoming order, and I think leather lined is too bulky.
Thanks.

 

[Edward]

Nice looking jacket - I like the minimalism of the design, very utilitarian. Reminds me of one of the designs Aero introduced a while back from the front, but the back is somewhat different. The buttoned bits on the waistband are a nice detail.

On the RRL, I really like the open-top / non-fastening breast pocket. That would be great for sticking gloves in.

 

[jlanderson]

The brown is especially nice! Love the texture of the hide and the contrast stitching. I like the design of the RRL Stratton, but for a jacket that's made in China, I think it's way over-priced, at least based on the price I just saw on a sold eBay listing. For $1,200, I'd rather have a leather coat made by craftsmen at Himel or Aero or by a single artist, like John Chapman.

When a company like Lauren charges $1,200 for jacket made by someone paid Chinese wages, it hits you between the eyes how much of a markup they're charging the customer. And to me, it's just not worth it.

 

[Edward]

When a company like Lauren charges $1,200 for jacket made by someone paid Chinese wages, it hits you between the eyes how much of a markup they're charging the customer. And to me, it's just not worth it.

Yes. I've looked in their stores, as well as others like Brooks Brothers, who seem to do the same thing. I have absolutely no qualms about paying out the right price when it comes to like for like - the Chinese are just as capable of top end quality as anyone else the world over - but when, as is normally the case, the often considerable saving on labour charge (sometimes at the expense of workforce safety, legal requirements often being lower in China) is not passed on to the buyer but pocketed as profit, meh. I'm not completely opposed to companies making a profit, but doing so by exploiting thw workforce and ripping off the customer.... meh. Not that I'm necessarily pinning that on RRL, but hey. Still.

 

[jlanderson]

Yes. I've looked in their stores, as well as others like Brooks Brothers, who seem to do the same thing. I have absolutely no qualms about paying out the right price when it comes to like for like - the Chinese are just as capable of top end quality as anyone else the world over - but when, as is normally the case, the often considerable saving on labour charge (sometimes at the expense of workforce safety, legal requirements often being lower in China) is not passed on to the buyer but pocketed as profit, meh. I'm not completely opposed to companies making a profit, but doing so by exploiting thw workforce and ripping off the customer.... meh. Not that I'm necessarily pinning that on RRL, but hey. Still.

COMPLETELY agree with you, Edward, on every point.

I have a couple of Trand suits that are MTM in China. The fabric on each is thick and luxurious and almost feels like cashmere, though it's wool. The handiwork is outstanding. But the price is unbelievable ... the handiwork is comparable to a Zegna or Issa, but the cost is less than a third.

As you said, the Chinese high-end tailors are up there with anyone, but what I don't like is companies that take advantage of the low wage structure, relative to First World economies, and then rake in an exorbitant profit, relative to their expenses.

Go Aero, Himel, Goodwear, Norshor Leather and any other company! They're worth the price, in my mind.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Nice. Like a high end Guido jacket or leather blazer.

 

[hollows]

Looking good! I've had to hang mine up for the summer, but I miss it already. Not missing the snow, however.

 

[Vespizzare]

Looks great. I am becoming more and more a fan of button coats like this one. :thumb:

I got an A1 on ebay to replace my A2 that was, alas, too small and i like the buttons too, especially how you can leave the buttons/snaps open on the bottom. I'm a little paranoid about the buttons coming off. They always do for shirts, and it'll be expensive, presumably needing a leather tailor or cleaner. Please educate me.

 

[Jägernaut]

I can see why you have to have the brown as well. The contrast stitching on Nick's is awesome.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I got an A1 on ebay to replace my A2 that was, alas, too small and i like the buttons too, especially how you can leave the buttons/snaps open on the bottom. I'm a little paranoid about the buttons coming off. They always do for shirts, and it'll be expensive, presumably needing a leather tailor or cleaner. Please educate me.

Shirt buttons are often put on cheaply and they don't tie off the thread, so the thread gradually undoes itself. On the jackets they stitch buttons down firmly and tie the thread off. But they can still come off after a few years of wear.

 

[tropicalbob]

The word "minimalism" is pretty much always used here in a very positive sense, usually denoting a righteous lack of frills. Sometimes, though, I think it can go to the point of boredom (try listening to four straight hours of Phillip Glass). To each his own, but to me there's something Puritanical about this style; in fact, it reminds me of illustrations of Cromwell's New Model Army.

 

[Dinerman]

A very common style in the 1920s. BobHufford posted a great photo from 1928 over in the Vintage Workwear thread the other day with a bunch of these in it. Here's a detail from it.

 

[schitzo]

Sadly I can't see the pics on this thread from where I am, which is hugely frustrating. I am picturing something immense

 

[Superfluous]

Personally, I love minimalist jackets. Moreover, the Canuck has wonderful, albeit simple, details that provide character (e.g., the stitching around the pockets)

The other thing I love about this jacket, and the primary reason I purchased it, is the length. I never tuck in my non-dress shirts. While I love Moto/Buco/Half Belt style jackets, my shirts often project below the bottom of the jacket. A small amount of revealed shirt is fine. However, with certain longer shirts, too much shirt is revealed when wearing shorter jackets. The extra length of the Canuck covers almost all shirts. IMHO, this is a cleaner look with longer shirts.

 

[Seb Lucas]

The word "minimalism" is pretty much always used here in a very positive sense, usually denoting a righteous lack of frills. Sometimes, though, I think it can go to the point of boredom (try listening to four straight hours of Phillip Glass). To each his own, but to me there's something Puritanical about this style; in fact, it reminds me of illustrations of Cromwell's New Model Army.

Like all things there is good and bad minimalism. Much of it is a reaction to bad or vulgar taste. And thank God for it. It's okay to like minimalism, but like most aesthetic expressions not all of it works.

 

[nick123]

Interesting:
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Book_of_Tea